Purple Leaf Plum Tree Listing to port.

[dan021353]

Help!
My purple leaf plum tree, which was planted about 15 feet from my the corner of my house - front yard, is now at about a 75 degree angle. The tree placement puts it directly in the path of the wind tunnel created between my and my neighbors home. The prevailing winds are forcing the tree to lean forward. I'm afraid I'll eventually lose it if the right combination of wet ground and wind hit at the same time. Tree caliper is about 3.5 inches and tree is 15 foot high, planted four years ago.
I think I should stake it, but the tree is pretty big. Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

Got a picture?
I'm thinking you have what we call a Thundercloud Plum. In my experience they have a tendency to lean and are easily blown over. I have uprighted and staked several, root invigoration, fertilized and pruned to lighten weight and wind resistance to no avail. I've had to remove them all.

 

[dan021353]

Plum Pics

Here are Pics of the Plum!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38311&stc=1&d=1159193271

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38312&stc=1&d=1159193271

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38313&stc=1&d=1159193271

 

[Doctor Dave]

Here are Pics of the Plum!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38311&stc=1&d=1159193271

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38312&stc=1&d=1159193271

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38313&stc=1&d=1159193271

Looks like you can stake it. Straightening it up could be difficult. You don't want to simply winch it upright; that would tear the bark and break roots.

You have to get down and apply leverage to the root zone, while gently pulling on the tree, just to guide it in the right direction. You will probably need a piece of heavy equipment, like a Bobcat; either that, or you'll need several strong guys with prybars. In either case, you have to dig down on the downhill side 2-3 ft. away from the trunk; then set a a piece of plank sideways in the hole to pry against, and something under the pry bars as a fulcrum. You could also stake it as is, and maintain that "windblown" look.

Goos Luck!

 

[dan021353]

replant plum tree a possibility?

Any chance that I could successfully relocate the tree in another area, i.e dig up major root area and move.

That way I can reset in an upright position in a more protected area.

The tree is planted on a mound about 3 feet above grade

 

[Doctor Dave]

Any chance that I could successfully relocate the tree in another area, i.e dig up major root area and move.

That way I can reset in an upright position in a more protected area.

The tree is planted on a mound about 3 feet above grade

You could dig it--but it would be a big job. You would need to dig a trench, wrap in woven plastic cloth, and tie a rope net around it. Then you would have to rent a Bobcat to lift it with some slings and move it, all while not skinning the bark off of the trunk (pad it heavily). It certainly can be done (in spring before budbreak, or in a month or so). I'd get some bids on it if you haven't done it before at this scale. A proper root ball is 1 ft. per in. of caliper--so your rootball is four feet across, and 18 in. to 2 ft. thick. REAL heavy. If you root prune it in the fall at the size of the rootball with a sharpened transplanting spade, it'll grow lots more side roots, and the ball will hold together better for moving in the spring.

 

[dan021353]

Thanks

Thanks Doctor Dave - I just may get that estimate for a spring transplant as you suggested. I just see the present situation as a falling tree just waiting to happen. May as well try to save it.

 

[treeseer]

Tree is leaning due in part to poor rooting. Clip the suckers at the trunk back to their origin, and take a picture of the point where the first roots come off the trunk. That tells a lot. Check Buying and Planting in the link below.

 

[dan021353]

Root Picture

Well treesayer - looks like your're right on. When I moved mulch and started to move dirt from base of tree, I discovered that the roots closest to the surface (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter) actually ran perpendicular to the direction of the prevailing winds. I couldn't find any roots at all on the windward (or leeward) side of the tree - went down about 4-5 ". I didn't want to remove too much dirt cause it's really windy today and I kept on bumping into the wire cage that housed the original root ball.

I think I'm :censored:

You can see a little bit of what I'm talking about in the attached pic
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38321&stc=1&d=1159211555

 

[woodville]

I'd move it if possiable however you have more than enough room to place a duck bill http://gear.sherrilltree.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit?comp=SHE.

 

[dan021353]

OK I'll bite

What's a duck bill?

 

[treeseer]

pic show 2 good buttress roots and no girdling. I'd stake it. A duckbill is a kind of anchor.

You could drill thru the stem up here it branches out and fasten an eye bolt. Then run a cable from the eye to the anchor.

 

[Ekka]

Interesting tree.

Bit of a wind tunnel happening there. The tree will always look a little lop sided as not much canopy development on the windward side.

I'd be into moving it, at least away from the wind tunnel, that way it'll develop into a nice even symetrical tree.

They dont get too big so you'll have plenty of places for it.

http://www.stadlergardencenters.com/trees/trees.php?tid=1028

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

a different viewpoint.
not a tree I'd put alot of time or $ into, unless you like it.
you may find something nicer to replace it.
BTW, when you said you found the wire cage, was it whole and intact?
it should have been removed/cut as much as possible.
was there any burlap or other material still present in the hole?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I disagree that the wire basket should have been removed. There is just no reason, in fact, it will make fixing the problem easier.
In the nursery, when they want to move a tree, they dig a trench, wrap the ball in burlap, then move the tree by handling the ball. This is the long version of what you could do here. Dig a trench around the tree about 2 feet deep. Stay well outside the wire basket. Once your down there, dig as far under the tree as you can.
There will come a point where you can start to move the ball. Use the basket handles to shift the tree straight. If you are really ambitious, you might even be able to rotate it in the hole. Resist temptation to handle the tree by the stem, use the basket.
It is a nice tree in a nice spot, I see no reason to replace it or move it.

 

[Ekka]

But Mike, what about the wind.

http://leo.cuckoo.org/images/pad/2004/Dec_SA/large/1467.jpg

This one shows what happens to even the little ones

http://teamster.usc.edu/~dteam/images/bonsai/TREE10.JPG

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

If the tree really is listing because of high, constant winds, then moving the tree upright, or rotating it, will only be a temporary fix. These prunus tend to be short lived trees anyway.
I wonder if there's not something else going on underground. Dan, how solid is the tree in the ground, that is, if you grab the trunk and move it, does the ground heave at all around the base?

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

Mike, everything I have read states to remove as much of the basket as possible.
"short-lived" is one of my reasons to remove it.
The vast majority of these trees I am called to remove is because of the messand leaning.
I have tried to save several, never have been successful. But maybe it's just me

 

[Doctor Dave]

Mike, everything I have read states to remove as much of the basket as possible.
"short-lived" is one of my reasons to remove it.
The vast majority of these trees I am called to remove is because of the messand leaning.
I have tried to save several, never have been successful. But maybe it's just me

I've been thinking about the fact that it was planted in mounded up soil. This can't help much for stability either, especially with the tree's other problems.

 

[dan021353]

Thanks for all the input

I do like the tree where it is and moving it is going to cost lots of $$$.

The wire basket is still intact as far as I can tell - which leads me to believe I can do some repositioning. Here's what I'm thinking of trying to address all angles.

Dig a trench about 2 1/2 feet from base of tree (the wire basket is about 1 1/2 foot in diameter). Since the tree is on a mound, I think I can go down about 1 1/2 feet with the trench and still be above grade. Then I will try to get underneath as best I can. Once this is done, I will try to re-align the trunk to straighten it, and rotate if possible to encourage a regular growth canopy.

I'm a little concerned about chopping through some major roots, so I'll be careful not to sacrifice them if it means killing the tree.

Assuming that all works out, I have a neighbor that constructed a nice looking windbreak out of pressure treated materials that I could locate alongside the house at the proper angle to deflect the prevailing winds - at least some of the wind. Basically its a couple of 6' wide fence panels stacked as high as the first story of his home. Looks solid.

Any last words of advice?? I sure do appreciate what I've gotten so far.