question about where chimney liner meets pipe

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johndeereg

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We had a new liner put in last fall. The wood stove is in the basement. The stove has a double wall pipe which goes into the wall. Once in the wall, there is a short section of terra cotta looking pipe. This meets stainless steel stuff that attaches to the stainless liner and goes up the chimney. The terra cotta pipe is bigger around than the stainless, so there was a gap there of about 1/4" on the one side. That was plastered shut with some type of material.

Last year when I cleaned the chimney, I stuffed the bristle brush in the hole above our stove. When I put the brush in, it knocked some of the cement like material out where the steel meets the pipe. I tried to fix it today using firebox/firepit cement. It came in a small yogurt size container. I was able to push a little in the crack and mainly smear a layer over the joint, closing up the 1/4" gap that was open going to who knows where. The company that installed didn't seem interested in coming out, and said it wasn't under warranty or anything.
stove0001.jpg
crete block where it is. I can't tell.
 
I don't know what is standard practice when installing a liner. I'm sure others will chime in. It seems to me though that since everything was replaced new, the thimble should have been replaced also at the time of the new installation. I would expect to see a metal thimble that has a tight connection between your stove pipe and chimney liner. That gap may never seal properly and could cause exhaust gas to creep out between the liner and the chimney. That's cause for concern as creosote could start building on your chimney walls and you'll never know it. Just my 2 cents as an amateur.
 
It was actually all new from the stove up. That pipe was put in new somehow. This isn't our exact thimble, but it does have one of these that goes into the wall: This metal piece doesn't reach the metal in the wall though. It fits inside the clay type pipe.
 

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I'm not a chimney installer or mason. But I think it's bad and I wouldn't burn with it like that, not when places like Rockford sell stainless sleeves you can slide into them and fix it for-sure. Spend the $80 and fix it - you'll sleep better.
 
Thanks cheeves, I sent him a message. I also called the installer back up since a few people here don't think it's best.
 
It seems the cement type stuff they used, isn't very durable. When I tried to fix it, and rubbed a flat screwdriver around the joint, and some of it would crumble. The new liner was installed late last summer, so it's been used one season. I would think the installer should fix it free of charge, would you? We paid 1200 for the job.
 
It seems the cement type stuff they used, isn't very durable. When I tried to fix it, and rubbed a flat screwdriver around the joint, and some of it would crumble. The new liner was installed late last summer, so it's been used one season. I would think the installer should fix it free of charge, would you? We paid 1200 for the job.
If they care about their reputation someone will come look at it and help you come up with a solution. It depends on the company and the particular person you talk to there. If you don't get the answers you want, move up the food chain.
 
We had a new liner put in last fall. The wood stove is in the basement. The stove has a double wall pipe which goes into the wall. Once in the wall, there is a short section of terra cotta looking pipe. This meets stainless steel stuff that attaches to the stainless liner and goes up the chimney. The terra cotta pipe is bigger around than the stainless, so there was a gap there of about 1/4" on the one side. That was plastered shut with some type of material.

Last year when I cleaned the chimney, I stuffed the bristle brush in the hole above our stove. When I put the brush in, it knocked some of the cement like material out where the steel meets the pipe. I tried to fix it today using firebox/firepit cement. It came in a small yogurt size container. I was able to push a little in the crack and mainly smear a layer over the joint, closing up the 1/4" gap that was open going to who knows where. The company that installed didn't seem interested in coming out, and said it wasn't under warranty or anything.
View attachment 372672
crete block where it is. I can't tell.
The stainless steel liner should be connected to a stainless tee. The snout of the tee should end at the wall of the room or a 1/4"-1/2" into the room. In cases like yours where the snout is not long enough to make it into the room they should have installed a slip connector which is a rigid peace of stainless that fits into the tee's snout and would extend up to 16 extra inches. There should be stainless steel from the starting piont( just inside the room) to the termination piont on the roof. You should inspect the connection between the horizontal run of pipe to liner. If that connection is sound then measure how many inches from the wall of the room to the beginning of the horizontal run of pipe. If that distance is less than 16" you could use a slip connector and fill the gap between the slip connector and the clay tile with motar. If the distance is greater than 16" than you may have to use a section of rigid stainless and crimp one end to fit inside the tee's snout.
 
The stainless steel liner should be connected to a stainless tee. The snout of the tee should end at the wall of the room or a 1/4"-1/2" into the room. In cases like yours where the snout is not long enough to make it into the room they should have installed a slip connector which is a rigid peace of stainless that fits into the tee's snout and would extend up to 16 extra inches. There should be stainless steel from the starting piont( just inside the room) to the termination piont on the roof. You should inspect the connection between the horizontal run of pipe to liner. If that connection is sound then measure how many inches from the wall of the room to the beginning of the horizontal run of pipe. If that distance is less than 16" you could use a slip connector and fill the gap between the slip connector and the clay tile with motar. If the distance is greater than 16" than you may have to use a section of rigid stainless and crimp one end to fit inside the tee's snout.
Awesome! You're the man rooftopcrew. Part of the reason why I keep coming back to this forum is that people offer real, genuine good advice. Good on you!
 

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