Questions about ms 290

[proclive]

I just bought a 290 of craigslist. The thing is very easy to start almost easier than my 250. It also has a pinging sound which I have read may be piston slap and I have been told to let it cool and then start it to see if I hear the ringing slowly go away. Also the bar I believe is bent. Everytime I start a cut the thing bogs down and I noticed that the cuts keep sweeping to the side the further I get through it.

 

[mowoodchopper]

I just bought a 290 of craigslist. The thing is very easy to start almost easier than my 250. It also has a pinging sound which I have read may be piston slap and I have been told to let it cool and then start it to see if I hear the ringing slowly go away. Also the bar I believe is bent. Everytime I start a cut the thing bogs down and I noticed that the cuts keep sweeping to the side the further I get through it. The guy who owned it never adjusted the oiler I think and it doesn't seem to be oiling too well. Is there a way to clean the oil tank and oiler in case it was just gunked up? If it's bad then I guess I have to buy a new one.

Ok man, when you say easy to start do you mean it starts good or do you mean it has low compression?

If it has low compression check the piston for wear through the exhaust port.

If it has good compression and runs good but has that ringing noise it is prob just clutch noise, I wouldnt worry about that, if its a clutch it should ring at idle then quit when you wind it up.

As for cutting crooked, it could be a bent bar but if its bent you could see it lay it on a flat table,
more likely the bar rails are not square or the chain is not sharpened correctly,
one side biting more because of poor sharpening or drags out of whack

 

[windthrown]

I just bought a 290 of craigslist. The thing is very easy to start almost easier than my 250. It also has a pinging sound which I have read may be piston slap and I have been told to let it cool and then start it to see if I hear the ringing slowly go away. Also the bar I believe is bent. Everytime I start a cut the thing bogs down and I noticed that the cuts keep sweeping to the side the further I get through it. The guy who owned it never adjusted the oiler I think and it doesn't seem to be oiling too well. Is there a way to clean the oil tank and oiler in case it was just gunked up? If it's bad then I guess I have to buy a new one.

I have found that low compression makes Stihl saws really hard to start and stay lit. If it starts that easy you may have low compression... hang it by the starter cord and see how well it holds. If it has good compressin and starts easy, it may just be a good saw in tune. A 290 should have a really strong recoil on it. Like rip your wrist off type recoil.

The pinging sound is more likely to be the clutch and drum at idle... its the clutch randomly hitting the drum making the pings. Almost all Stihl saws that I have had do that. The 290 has an adjustible oiler. Pro feature. Just flip the saw over and on its belly there is a small hole. Inside that is a slot adjustable 'oil control bolt'. Adjujst the oiler with the small screwdriver to the wider position, and it will gush more oil for you.

As for odd cuts, do you have a .325 or a 3/8 standard chain? I have found that .325 does not cut straight on any saw I have had, and they tend to wander and pinch the bar in cuts. If that is the case, switch to 3/8 standard B&C and sprocket. While you are at it, flip to a rim style drum and sprocket drive from spur, and you will be better off for it (better chain life, far cheaper rim costs over time, also keeps the chain on better and makes chain tightening easier).

I ran a 20 inch 3/8 standard B&C on my 290 and that thing cut great. It will run an 18 or 20 inch 3/8 stgandard B&C just fine. Keep your chains tight and sharp, and it should not bog. If you are used to a 250, it should not bog nearly as much. Sounds like a crappy chain, or bar and chain to me. Or it may be low compression, and a tired saw. Hard to say from your description.

 

[proclive]

I thought with a bigger saw it would be harder to start. The thing starts like a champ which is why I asked if it might have low compression. I will probably get the dealer to test that since I don't have that tool. I am a total newbie to working on saws. I removed the side plate and bar and chain and revved it up a little and the oiler is working fine. It must have been too much saw dust still clogged up in the side. I can tell the bar is bent slightly after putting it on a flat surface. On one side it sits flat and when I flip it to other side I can rock it back and forth about 1/16 of an inch. It is a .325 and the chain looked busted to me when I got it. I had the Stihl dealer sharpen it up real quick but even when putting the straight portion of the bar in wood its still throwing dust and not chips. The sprocket is most likely worn because the chain links are curling at the bottom at least I assume that from my limited knowledge. If that's the case what bar/chain/sprocket should I buy?

 

[mowoodchopper]

As for compression you could check it but without out a gauge, the only thing I can tell you is to hold the saw by the starter rope and let it hang, it should hold itself some what then slowly drop one compression stroke at a time really slow, if it does that you are prob ok if it falls to the ground pretty quickly your low.

As for the chain thats up to you, id go to baileys and get a bar and chain combo pretty cheap and they work fine.

Id also get a new sprocket, and 18 inch 325 round chisel, if you want switch to 3/8 you ll have to swap sprockets and I would go with a 16 in bar for that saw.

If it were mine I would stick with 325, AML 18 MS63 and 68 DL of 23RC I think are the numbers for bar and chain from baileys, click on the link on the homepage they are a AS SPONSOR.
THEY may have a combo to that will get you the same bar and chain a little cheaper.

Also if you need help and want to order from baileys you can call them they are super helpful as far as knowing what you need for your saw!

 

[proclive]

Sweet thanks for the help. This has probably been the most helpful board I have ever posted a question to.

 

[nmurph]

they forgot to mention that you should open the muffler up. it really, really helps the models in this series of saws.

 

[vhmtach38]

the pinging or ringing may be just be the holding washer behind the c clip on the clutch ...as for the easy starting leave well enough alone your carb is probably perfectly tuned for the starting ...idling ...just make sure to not be too lean on the H needle...u have to tune that while actually cutting ...

 

[warjohn]

If it were mine I would stick with 325, AML 18 MS63 and 68 DL of 23RC I think are the numbers for bar and chain from baileys, click on the link on the homepage they are a AS SPONSOR.
THEY may have a combo to that will get you the same bar and chain a little cheaper.

Also if you need help and want to order from baileys you can call them they are super helpful as far as knowing what you need for your saw![/QUOTE]

I agree I would get a new bar and chain. I also agree you should stick with the .325 chain. Might as well get more than one chain while your at it.

 

[Evan]

a doubt a 290 will rip your wrist off.
our work 310 is also easy to start it has right at 150lbs of compression. ive yet to feel it rip at my wrist or feel remotly hard to start.

my 044 084 and 359 have tugged at my wrist a tad specialy if im getn tired and get lazy startn them but these saws are all running 175ish

 

[sefh3]

I own a 290 also and when my cuts where wandering, the chain was dull. If you run a sharp chain on it, it should quit wandering on you. I run .325 on mine and it cuts straight.

 

[mickeyd]

for whatever reason I have a tendency to sharpen one half of the cutters better than the other. I can always tell when I am in a big round and the saw is cutting a sharp turn usually to the right . test your cut with the brand new chain and see how it rips nice and straight.
if you like the 290 now . you will love it after modding the muffler . it is very easy to do on that saw. and you will notice a huge difference. do a search on the muffler mod and you will find a step by step instruction . it only took me about 15 minutes with my dremel cutoff wheel
MD

 

[Fish]

If you want a bar and chain, you will need the 74 drive link chain and bar,
not the 68 drive link, it is for the ms250, like , well, this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200343789616&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT



















Shameless, I know....

 

[infomet]

It's a good, reliable saw and worth a bar and chain. Who knows, you may be able to go back to the original chain later, when you get everything else right. It's never worth suffering with a poor setup! You'll wear the engine and yourself and you'll be more likely to get hurt.

Buy some chaps.

 

[GASoline71]

Like rip your wrist off type recoil.

Are you sure you're thinkin' of the same saw the OP is talkin' about?

Gary

 

[windthrown]

Are you sure you're thinkin' of the same saw the OP is talkin' about?

Gary

No 420 involved here. The boat anchor has a reputation of having the capacity of snapping on your wrist, good and hard. No "Easy Start" on that saw. Its has about the same yank as the 361. But that was mostly when starting on the ground. I twisted my wrist a few times starting my old trusty 290 on the ground, when the goon squad was around (county folk, forest planners, and all the people that put little flags in the ground that the dogs dug up 10 minutes after they left). Now I just drop start all my saws, regardless of who is in sight.

Andy and I had this discussion some years ago here. We both would have put a decpomp on the 290. I would have drilled one into my 290 if I had kept that saw, but I removed the modded muffler, put the stock one back on and detuned it, and it is at the ex's place now. I sold the modded muffler to a happy camper here on AS.

Funny though, now I have a 044 without a decomp, and it does not bother me. I rarely use the 361 decomps that much any more either. I must have re-learned the drop start thing that my dad taught me when I was a kid. Or my wrist tendons are all stretched out now and I do not feel them any more.