quick question please; cutting spring poles

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Good for you, I would use that book for wiping my butt, its my opinion...

See, that's the kind of person you are. I try to answer your ignition timing questions last night in an attempt to educate, then you repay me by acting like a frigging a$$hat. I wish you the best of luck going through the rest of your life as a miserable nuisance.


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Its not personal dude. . . I appreciate your input alot. I just have different freaking opinions on cutting wood, most of them from my own experiences. i have been hurt from sprung wood before and I dont wish injury on any other AS users. . . .
 
Its not personal dude. . . I appreciate your input alot. I just have different freaking opinions on cutting wood, most of them from my own experiences. i have been hurt from sprung wood before and I dont wish injury on any other AS users. . . .

You made it personal with the smart mouthed remark.

I have never been hurt by a springpole. It is fine if you want to do it different. Just don't talk junk about someone elses methods unless you have the ability to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that they are unsound.


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Did you write that book???

Huh??


Thats what I thought, so what is the problem? ? ?

Cause you give me good info dosent mean im gonna go kissing your ass every time you post. . .

From my eyes, giving an inexperienced cutter a diagram with some cut here lines and some stand here exes is a good way for him to get hurt.
 
From my perspective as an untrained hack I make shallow cuts on either side to see where it pinches and to give me an idea of where it's going to go if it isn't apparent from looking at it. From there I try to make a few cuts to relieve the pressure without pinching the bar.
 
Did you write that book???

Huh??


Thats what I thought, so what is the problem? ? ?

Cause you give me good info dosent mean im gonna go kissing your ass every time you post. . .

From my eyes, giving an inexperienced cutter a diagram with some cut here lines and some stand here exes is a good way for him to get hurt.

The problem is that you claim to have been injured by a springpole and I have not. You have the unsound methods. Not me. Since you got hurt you know the best way to get hurt. Post a video of you getting hurt and we will all know what not to do.

I owned a chainsaw before you were born. I was making money with a saw before you went through puberty. Like I said bring proof, or clamp it.


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i was taught to "shave" the tension side and it works very well. use the saw to shave down the tree making the diameter smaller and it weekens the tree tell it breaks in the middle releasing the tension.... trust me it works well give it a try.
 
I have no interest in proving myself to you.

So what where you doing with the saw? Production timber falling?

Falling trees next to $300,000 houses as the owner of my own company.

I will stop now as most likely you a drunk, as usual.


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i was taught to "shave" the tension side and it works very well. use the saw to shave down the tree making the diameter smaller and it weekens the tree tell it breaks in the middle releasing the tension.... trust me it works well give it a try.

Shaving the compression side allows more control as the tension fibers stay intact until the energy is released.
 
Im about as sober as they come hoss, and stopping would be fine cause I dont want to argue with an arborist. . . . . . . . .

BTW telling someone to advance their timing untill they blow a hole in the piston of there saw then back it off alittle has a hateful undertone to it. . .
 
Im about as sober as they come hoss, and stopping would be fine cause I dont want to argue with an arborist. . . . . . . . .

BTW telling someone to advance their timing untill they blow a hole in the piston of there saw then back it off alittle has a hateful undertone to it. . .



It was a joke from beginning to end. A paraphrase of a joke that mechanics and engineers have told since before either you or I was born.


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the reasoning behind shaving the tension rather that the compression side was less chance of a pinch. Like i said before it has always worked very well for me. another thing i was taught but dont do very often is swamping out the areaq you are dropping the tree into to avoid springpoles and other issues. I dont know if anybody ever does it but its another method.
 
the reasoning behind shaving the tension rather that the compression side was less chance of a pinch. Like i said before it has always worked very well for me. another thing i was taught but dont do very often is swamping out the areaq you are dropping the tree into to avoid springpoles and other issues. I dont know if anybody ever does it but its another method.

There is less chance of a pinch, but that is not the most important thing to avoid. If you hold the pushing chain parallel to the stem the chances of a pinch are small.

Swamping is a good idea, but if you are production falling then the time factor may be to high. That being said I always swamp out the area near the stump, and for at least two escape paths.


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The way I was taught to handle spring poles, which I use religiously, is as follows:

1) Make many, many small cuts on the bottom/compression side. You'll know it's working when the stem starts to flatten out and relieve tension.

2) Once it flattens out to a 90 degree angle, all tension is relieved. Don't cut it off just yet; there's still the matter of the rest of the tree to contend with.

3) Buck from the far end toward the stump end, staying on the side where the loose wood falls. This way you avoid any swinging or bowing from the remaining stem length. Eventually you'll get to the stump.

4) Go ahead and cut the rest off now. The only thing left to hurt you is the saw, and normal safety rules apply here still.
 
Spring poles

I didn't look at the manual, but this is how I was taught. Go 45 degrees from the point where the top of the spring pole and the point at where it is pinched meet and then shave the tension side gently. It will collapse harmlessly. This only works if the spring pole is below chest level.
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Yes, you want them to go away from you, definitely. Also, you can release some of the tension safely by just placing a series of cuts, right next to each other, but not going all the way through. One after the other. You'll see those open up a little bit, taking some of the energy out.

Other things to do if you can? Stand behind a tree for protection and the old standby, use a LONG bar so you can stand out of the way even more.

Well stated. Shaving the inside can also work if you are running a small saw. You have to gice the springpole a little time to release its tension. Maybe 10 seconds or more. I took a springpole to the front of my hardhat in January 1974 and I will never forget it.
 

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