Rakers...

[willsaw4beer]

So I'm finally getting really good at getting the teeth really really sharp. The rakers are easy enough to just file down, although I've noticed most of my bars are slightly oval shaped and the depth gauge is high as a result, so I've ended up just doing it by eye. I've noticed that even if the rakers are all the same height, if they're a slightly different shape then the chain will cut crooked... I don't know if this stems from me filing all of them from one side or what but it has me thinking. I always figured sharp teeth and low rakers were fast cutting, now I'm thinking raker shape have more to do with cutting speed than I initially thought.
I'd like to hear some thoughts from the experts on this.

 

[boltonranger]

So I'm finally getting really good at getting the teeth really really sharp. The rakers are easy enough to just file down, although I've noticed most of my bars are slightly oval shaped and the depth gauge is high as a result, so I've ended up just doing it by eye. I've noticed that even if the rakers are all the same height, if they're a slightly different shape then the chain will cut crooked... I don't know if this stems from me filing all of them from one side or what but it has me thinking. I always figured sharp teeth and low rakers were fast cutting, now I'm thinking raker shape have more to do with cutting speed than I initially thought.
I'd like to hear some thoughts from the experts on this.

Well; by no means an expert - but when you say oval shaped bar... rakers high as a result; could you clarify? I realize you're alluding to a high spot; but are you talking about across the bar rails or down the length of them?
-br

 

[clearance]

Measure them at the same spot on the bar. I always put a file across the teeth with one end of the file touching the saw engine, that way its the same every time. You can freehand them, and I usually do, but you can use a raker guage, or improvise.

 

[Meadow Beaver]

You'll be fine as long as you make the rakers on the left and right hand cutters the same height, if one side is higher than the other the chain will strafe to one side or the other, and it will chatter like hell.

 

[Crofter]

There is a good chance the rakers will be longer on one side if you file them all from one side. The more slack in your bar groove, the worse the effect.

 

[scotclayshooter]

There is a good chance the rakers will be longer on one side if you file them all from one side. The more slack in your bar groove, the worse the effect.

I use a Husky combo guide, Its progressive on the rakers ( I only useit for the rakers) And i dont find with this tool that the rakers are uneven from side to side.
I dont think I would be able to file with my left hand and hold the guide in my right so it all from 1 side for me!

 

[Raymond]

When I feel/see it's time to hit the rakes, I use a small hand grinder.
Filing them gives me the same affect as fingernails on the chalk board.
You'll find a small clean rectangle for a top on them when you do.
Just make the rectangles the same size...she'll cut like a champ again.

 

[Crofter]

I use a Husky combo guide, Its progressive on the rakers ( I only useit for the rakers) And i dont find with this tool that the rakers are uneven from side to side.
I dont think I would be able to file with my left hand and hold the guide in my right so it all from 1 side for me!

With a lot of raker gauge styles if you file them all from one side the far side raker falls away or leans over while the near side raker stands up toward the center line of the groove and it winds up getting filed about 5 thou shorter. Filing with the left hand is awkward for me too; no argument there. I cross over the file with wrist arched and hold the raker gauge with the left and file with the right. The method Raymond uses by judging the comparative flat spot works good to provided you do a consistent job of rounding the nose over. Unequal rakers is one of the things to check if someone comes with a crooked cutting saw.

 

[Raymond]

With a lot of raker gauge styles if you file them all from one side the far side raker falls away or leans over while the near side raker stands up toward the center line of the groove and it winds up getting filed about 5 thou shorter. Filing with the left hand is awkward for me too; no argument there. I cross over the file with wrist arched and hold the raker gauge with the left and file with the right. The method Raymond uses by judging the comparative flat spot works good to provided you do a consistent job of rounding the nose over. Unequal rakers is one of the things to check if someone comes with a crooked cutting saw.

Right On
Yeah a pair of reading glasses and my wife or groundman, rolling the chain for me helps.

 

[Raymond]

All from the same side? :dunno: Works for me.

 

[willsaw4beer]

There is a good chance the rakers will be longer on one side if you file them all from one side. The more slack in your bar groove, the worse the effect.

Aah, I hadn't thought of that but that is a great point.

With a lot of raker gauge styles if you file them all from one side the far side raker falls away or leans over while the near side raker stands up toward the center line of the groove and it winds up getting filed about 5 thou shorter. Filing with the left hand is awkward for me too; no argument there. I cross over the file with wrist arched and hold the raker gauge with the left and file with the right. The method Raymond uses by judging the comparative flat spot works good to provided you do a consistent job of rounding the nose over. Unequal rakers is one of the things to check if someone comes with a crooked cutting saw.

Have to keep that in mind too.

 

[madhatte]

I use a Husky combo guide, Its progressive on the rakers ( I only useit for the rakers) And i dont find with this tool that the rakers are uneven from side to side.

I also use the Husky Combi Gauge. It's a great little tool. As for filing from one side, this thing accommodates that irregularity nicely by canting back and forth as you fit the notch over the next link. Works for me.

Also I've been nicely approximating a square grind by hand using those oddball semi-hex files with the narrow opposite edges. I keep the narrow end even with and parallel to top plate/guide mark and it comes out just right. Cuts like a champ.

Another trick I've discovered is to re-profile a rocked chain using a flat file. If I dip the bottom of the flat file under the top plate, I re-profile and sharpen at the same time. Couple swipes at the rakers later, it's good as new.

One more thing: if you take your chains in to a shop to be sharpened, be sure to check the rakers yourself when they come back in. I've seen reputable shops fail to set the rakers properly and only noticed when the thing won't cut. It only takes a minute and will save you plenty of grief.

 

[Crofter]

It would be a real beech to lengthen the rakers after they have taken way too much off! I think you need to get a "goofy" file to play with; lots more possibilities there and puts you easily on the road to square filing.

 

[treeclimber101]

Just remember not to much the saw will bind and pull really hard , if you take down the rakers to far your kinda beat...

 

[Raymond]

Just remember not to much the saw will bind and pull really hard , if you take down the rakers to far your kinda beat...

Yeah I made that mistake years ago.
I thought hey, lets make some wood chips and took them WAY DOWN.
Yeah that chain was immediately on it's way to the landfill.

 

[big daddio]

Measure them at the same spot on the bar. I always put a file across the teeth with one end of the file touching the saw engine, that way its the same every time. You can freehand them, and I usually do, but you can use a raker guage, or improvise.

Yeah, that's the way i like to check them. i do one side at a time and count the file strokes, ususally two or three, and tap the file out to keep it clean. plus keep the file level or down just a hair toward the back of the cutter in front if ya feel better bout it. one more thing, i've seen a lot of over ambitious filing on rakers. it won't cut if ya take off too much. just a lot of boggin down.

 

[madhatte]

Note on the side-to-side issue: It's pretty easy to flip the file over and pull towards yourself rather than pushing away. Some rakers are sort of curved inward toward the cut so that can make a difference. I always do all rakers from the same side but flip the file if there's a visible curve or if I hear that "fingernails on the chalkboard" sound. I still have to do the cutters from opposite sides, though. Otherwise I always end up with something uneven.

 

[climber17]

I use a husq file guide that also sets the rakers. it seems to work great as long as you dont get too caaied away with it. file from both sides when sharpening.