Rayco 1625 motor is shot. I can reblock it, replace with a 27hp or 31hp need advice.

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dontbthatguy

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So I just bought a 1625 with 180 hours. Bought it for 6,500 after the guy who sold it service it because it was running rough. The mechanic found a bad camshaft and replaced it.

5 hours into me operating it, it was running rough again. Took it back to the dealer and the camshaft was shot yet again. Got a call today from the dealer saying the block is bad.

My options are re-blocking it at a cost of $1,200.

Putting a new 27 hp kohler on it.

putting a 31 hp vangaurd on it.

I called the rayco service department and the guy I talked to said if it was him, he would just throw a 27 on it and call it a day.

I need advice. I would love to get some extra HP out if it, but it could be a little rough on the clutch an belts. Has anyone done that before?

I will take any and all advice on this. The people in the forum are awesome and I really appreciate any help I get.

Thanks!

-Anthony
 
Only 180 hours on the meter and the engine is kaput sounds like that meter isn't up to metering time very well. or mebbe it was disconnected or not original.
engine died on my Rayco 1620 a few years ago and I replaced it with a 25hp Kohler for around $2K (Canadian) Wish it had the snorkel / heavy duty air filter set up, but for the few times I use it, it is lasting ok.

If I were you I'd likely just go with the 27hp and be done with it. Rebuilding the blown engine sounds like betting money on a gimpy horse, and upping the hp to 31 might cause your expensive Gates poly chain to wear prematurely quick as you abuse the machine harder.
 
I am in a similar situation. I just bought a 2007 SC252 with a 27HP Kohler that has a thrown rod. I went to my local small engine/ Kohler dealer yesterday to buy a new engine. I have dealt with him for years. He told me the best deal on a small engine right now is the Generac engines on ebay. I am leaning towards the 33HP. Has anyone tried one of these engines on a stump grinder?
 
I'd throw a 30HP Kohler on it - it should bolt right up. I'm not sure I would put anything on it that didn't bolt right up - those projects always have a way of creeping into much larger projects - and they kill the resale.

As far as a rebuild - I'd go new - that way you start with a new engine warranty.

This advice is worth what you paid for it!
 
Spoke to the mechanic today he said the crankshaft was oblong causing the cam to wear bad. I wish he caught that 3 weeks ago when he put the replacement cam in, but nothing I can do about it now it is bad luck. I am leaning towards putting the largest hp engine that will still bolt on which is a 30 hp Kohler.

Anyone do anything similar?
 
Engine Replacement

You should be just fine throwing a 27hp Kohler on it. You should be able to pick one up for around $1,600 to $1,700. I would not buy a block as you can spend a few more bucks and get a complete engine with a warranty. Usually, manufacturers will increase the jack shaft and cutter wheel shaft size due to more horsepower and this is done once you reach around a 35hp engine. Two more horsepower isn't going to hurt a thing. If you go with a different type of engine manufacturer, you're going to have to change the motor mounting system. This can be a nightmare as you'll have to reconfigure the motor mounts and make sure everything is in alignment.

I hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
 
You should be just fine throwing a 27hp Kohler on it. You should be able to pick one up for around $1,600 to $1,700. I would not buy a block as you can spend a few more bucks and get a complete engine with a warranty. Usually, manufacturers will increase the jack shaft and cutter wheel shaft size due to more horsepower and this is done once you reach around a 35hp engine. Two more horsepower isn't going to hurt a thing. If you go with a different type of engine manufacturer, you're going to have to change the motor mounting system. This can be a nightmare as you'll have to reconfigure the motor mounts and make sure everything is in alignment.

I hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters

Thanks for the reply Dave!

That is the option I am leaning towards. Perhaps throwing a Kohler 30hp on it. The dealer told me it would be 3 grand for that. I am not sure if that is a fair price. I am thinking of buying the motor myself and putting it on with the help of a mechanically inclined friend I have.

Another option my friend suggested I look into is boring out the imperfection at a machine shop and putting a bushing in there for the camshaft.
 
I would make sure whatever you get bolts right up. Idk if the 27 or the 30hp machines will.. even if the shaft sizes are the same size the mount hokes will probably be different. You can get a 25hp engine to put on it for under 2k and you can unbolt and rebolt it on.
 
I dont know about the clutch fitting on the larger 30HP motors, so check on that before you get a bigger motor. I would love more HP on my super Jr. but I dont know if I would want to do the mods needed to run a 30+hp motor.
 
Kohler 30hp

Hi Anthony,

I would stay away from that dealer who wants $3,000 for a 30hp Kohler. That's a very high price. Before purchasing a new engine, make sure the new engine is setup the proper way for a stump grinder. If my memory is correct, I think the model number for a 25hp Kohler is CH730S. I might be wrong. You would be better off contacting a Kohler dealer direct. The dealer you're more than likely dealing with doesn't have an account with Kohler and they're more than likely buying from a Kohler dealer raising the price of the engine. I would also recommend checking out ebay.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
 
The Command engines all have the same footprint - also same width and height - this is the 23, 25, 27, 30HP engines. I think they are all 725cc. You do need to make sure you get the right crankshaft option - length and diameter - and some are drilled and tapped in the end. They make a variety for different OEM applications. The engine governors can also be set for different speeds - which you can change in the field.

The 30HP has a 2 barrel carb and a slightly different intake - runs a little better across the board.

You might contact Rayco and see what their price to you would be. I'm with Dave - I don't think you should pay $3,000 for an engine. Before you buy make sure you know what it includes - which air filter , which muffler (outlet orientation,) flywheel screen, starter?? There are a lot better deals than Northern Hydraulics.

Anybody with tools should be able to put one on - they only weigh 125 pounds.
 
I had the same problem las year...

My 1625 Super Jr motor went kaput and I did the research for a new motor. I put on a 27 hp Kohlar, $1900. No difference in performance. I suggest the biggest HP engine you can afford. I wish I had 30+ HP. In for a penny, in for a pound.

PM me at [email protected] & I'll get you the gouge that is important for an engine swap. I'll post it again here as well. (I've been drinking and can't trust myself to put good info out tonight.)

A new motor is the way to go. I sold my old worn out one for $200 on craigslist to help lighten the load.

S/F and Good Luck (I'm going to bed)

Bob
 
Brought my 1625 to a dealer yesterday. Would spit and sputter when I'd put a load on it. I replaced the fuel filter, carb kit, oil and oil filter. Same ####. Dealer did a compression test. Pistons are suppose to be at 140 PSI they were at 100 and 110. He told me the engine is junk. So I'm in the same boat. I see Kohler makes up to a 40 HP model. Does anyone know if any engine over 30 HP is too much for the clutches/belts? Thanks.
 
I know this is an old post but these 1625's seem to go forever, getting older and more worn but still chugging along and fairly low on purchase price. I got mine, no hour meter, no Kohler sticker (should have known better but I was enthused) for AUD$9000. Nearly every bush was worn and the seatings ovalled. Rather than wait for spring steel tension bushes from the States (1" id, split, 1/2" wide) I just replaced them with hardened steel plain bushes with JB Weld to take up the oval. Seems ok. They were a bugger to cut, had to do em in lathe with a 1mm grinder cut off wheel; very messy. Quarter the price of OEM.
The Kholer 25hp was still chugging but smokey and leaking oil from the crankcase gasket. Stripped one pot. Valve stems worn. Cylinders down to within .005 mm of maximum wear (original 20.00-20.025mm, max wear 20.038). But cylinder was not oval and not tapered, just worn out top to bottom evenly. Very impressive Mr Kohler. Junked that and fitted a 1000cc 33hp Chinese motor from jonno and johno Ballarat Australia. Similar (the same?) to GB1000 in the States. I see that GB1000 advertised as 37hp but I reckon it's a furphy. Maybe 35hp if it's injected but only 33hp if vanilla.
It fitted very well. The PTO was the same diameter and length and the same height above base as the Kohler. The outer mounts slipped straight in although I had to lengthen the slots backwards by about 10mm to suit the belts that were on it. Inner slots I had to recut in the plate, drilling holes and angle grinder cutting joining slots.
Motor was still a little bit close so I trimmed the hydraulic pulley by 5mm and cut a more generous inner fillet. The Chinee motor has a slightly larger fillet than the Kohler on the PTO. Results that the clutch and pulleys are 5mm closer, so I had to move the big front pulley out on the new jackshaft by 5mm which means it now rubs on the front cover. Have to space that out by a coupla millimetres. Lucky I made the jackshaft a little longer, JIC I want to junk the HTD and try three B section belts on the cutter drive. Could have just slotted the outer engine mounts by 5mm but I didn't want to bugger up the warranty.
Turned up a new jackshaft out of 40mm truck brake S-Cam shaft and put on new pulleys from ptparts in Melbourne Australia. Quarter the price of OEM and I get British Taper Locks not those horrible QD Tapers that were original. Wondered why I couldn't screw the three bolts in to release the QDs. Found that over the years they had stretched and the threads were no longer accurate. Come on Rayco, surely the cost of hi-tensile bolts wouldn't break the bank!
Mitsuboshi 1190H 14M 40 and the Optibelt 1170 A sections were recent so they went back on. Since I don't have a manual and nobody on these sites seems to answer a straight out question I adjusted the HTD to 12mm on 6kg tension and the A sections to what feels right, about the same. Bando give song and dance about tensioning V belts but just say HTDs should be "not too tight and not too loose". Not terribly helpful Mr Bando. Just made up a spring with a bolt in the middle that would bottom out when the spring was compressed to 6kg on my kitchen scales. Seems to work ok.
I've only ground one medium stump so far and haven't pushed the new motor too much but everything seems to be hanging together. I'll post an update when it's done a bit more work and if anyone is interested, or even reads this old post, I'll put up some pics and a video I made.
 
I am in a similar situation. I just bought a 2007 SC252 with a 27HP Kohler that has a thrown rod. I went to my local small engine/ Kohler dealer yesterday to buy a new engine. I have dealt with him for years. He told me the best deal on a small engine right now is the Generac engines on ebay. I am leaning towards the 33HP. Has anyone tried one of these engines on a stump grinder?
I am in a similar situation. I just bought a 2007 SC252 with a 27HP Kohler that has a thrown rod. I went to my local small engine/ Kohler dealer yesterday to buy a new engine. I have dealt with him for years. He told me the best deal on a small engine right now is the Generac engines on ebay. I am leaning towards the 33HP. Has anyone tried one of these engines on a stump grinder?
Yes they are good engines . That is what I would do also
 

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