Red Maple problem

[haloway13]

What is wrong with my maple tree please.

 

[Raintree]

Could be a number of things.
Herbicide usage in root zone
Girdling roots
Planted too deep
Soil PH and fertility issues
Water management
With signs of interveinal chlorosis a soil test is warranted and while you are at it inspect the root collar.

 

[Sidecarflip]

One big mistake homeowners make is covering the root collar with mulch or stones or anything to make it appear 'nice'.

 

[haloway13]

Under the rock area there is a plastic weed barrier. The soil I planted in is fairly clay-like. I don't think I amended the soil very much when I originally planted. So you have any suggestions I can implement to improve the health of the tree?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Where are you at in colorado?

 

[pdqdl]

Get a soil test done.

With signs of interveinal chlorosis a soil test is warranted

Do you see the dark green veins within the leaves? This is your biggest problem, and we cannot diagnose this from a picture.



I consulted the internet for a more expansive explanation than I can spout off with. I found this:

"Chlorosis in maple leaves, which is the yellowing of leaves due to insufficient chlorophyll production, can be caused by a variety of factors. Identifying the specific cause of chlorosis in maple leaves often requires a careful examination of the tree's environment and a process of elimination. Here are some common causes of chlorosis in maple leaves:​

1. Nutrient Deficiencies: a. Iron Deficiency: Iron is essential for chlorophyll production. Poor soil drainage or high soil pH (alkaline soil) can limit iron uptake by the roots, leading to chlorosis. b. Nitrogen Deficiency: Inadequate nitrogen can also result in chlorosis. This may occur due to poor soil quality or competition with other plants for nutrients.
2. Soil pH Imbalance: Maples prefer slightly acidic to neutral soils. If the soil is too alkaline (high pH), it can interfere with nutrient uptake, leading to chlorosis. Soil pH can be adjusted through soil amendments.
3. Poor Drainage: Inadequate drainage can cause waterlogged soil, depriving roots of oxygen and impairing nutrient uptake. This can lead to chlorosis.
4. Root Compaction: Soil compaction can restrict root growth and reduce the tree's ability to absorb nutrients and water. This can result from construction or heavy foot traffic around the tree.
5. Root Damage: Physical damage to the tree's roots, such as during construction or digging, can disrupt nutrient and water uptake.
6. Diseases: Maple trees can be susceptible to various diseases, such as root rot or verticillium wilt, which can impair nutrient uptake and lead to chlorosis.
7. Pest Infestations: Insect pests, such as aphids, scale insects, or spider mites, can weaken the tree and affect its ability to produce chlorophyll.
8. Environmental Stress: Extreme weather conditions, including drought, excessive moisture, or temperature extremes, can stress maple trees and cause chlorosis.
9. Excessive Fertilization: Ironically, over-fertilizing with certain nutrients, such as phosphorus, can lead to nutrient imbalances and chlorosis.
10. Chemical Contaminants: Exposure to herbicides or other chemicals in the soil or water can harm the tree's roots and lead to chlorosis.

To determine the specific cause of chlorosis in maple leaves, consider conducting a soil test to assess nutrient levels and pH, inspecting the roots for damage or compaction, and examining the overall health of the tree for signs of disease or pests. Once you identify the underlying issue, you can take appropriate steps to address it, which may include adjusting the soil pH, improving drainage, applying fertilizers or micronutrient treatments, or treating for diseases or pests. Consulting with a local arborist or horticulturist can also be helpful in diagnosing and treating chlorosis in maple trees."​

​

Now that's a lot to consider. My best guess is that you have high pH soil, which causes several important minerals to become unavailable to the plant's roots, even though that mineral is present in the soil. Once you get that soil test done, we can advise you as to a good treatment plan.

How to get a soil sample? Take about 6 samples of the soil from that gravel pit you planted it in, ranging from close to the tree (two feet out) and up to 10 feet away. Sample in several radiating directions from the tree. Rake the gravel aside, then dig up a thin sample at least 6 inches deep. Mix your samples together, and then send a sample to the best local testing facility you can find. Most folks find that the local county extension agent will collect samples and send them off to an agricultural university for a good report. I use a private lab, because they give an excellent report, and do it much faster than any County Extension office. That service does come at a higher price, however.

https://midwestlabs.com/get-started

Just an observation: the tips of the branches seem to be burned a bit. This is normal with spring growth under a nutritional deficiency when the summer hits. Also notice that the youngest growth is also the most yellowed.

Get that soil tested, and don't rely on the instant tests sold at the local nursery.

 

[pdqdl]

So you have any suggestions I can implement to improve the health of the tree?

My immediate thought would be to remove the rock circle and rake back the gravel for the last 10 feet of your gravel rectangle. Strip off the plastic weed barrier, and install some red mulch that will somewhat match the appearance of your gravel. Pick a few other landscape plants that you like from a local nursery, and give that austere landscape a little more appeal. Then, when you get the soil sample results, you will be ready to implement whatever recommendations come with the soil report.

Some folks might just wish to do all their soil amending at once, but you should realize this isn't a good plan to think you will be able to toss out some fertilizer and magic soil amendment and get instant results. Whatever soil amendments you end up needing, it will assuredly involve losing the gravel and replacing with mulch. Yes! You will have more weeds. You will also eliminate a lot of heat and moisture stress on that tree. Sometimes the soil needs to be amended after you do some possibly expensive short-term treatments.

I'd look at gently raking back the soil from the base of the trunk, and finding out how deep the root flare is planted. As others have suggested, a tree planted too deep doesn't do well, and it's not that much work in some cases to just rake it back and add mulch. In some situations, a tree planted too deep is destined to fail, but you can take corrective measures for that, also. When you rake back the soil, be sure not to injure the thin bark. Then send us pictures!

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I happen to be in Denver visiting my son... might be able to do a house call.

 

[haloway13]

Thanks so much for all the helpful comments!

I have cleared away the rocks and plastic. I have broken up the soil a bit. I will be adding pine needles from the backyard to help make it a little more acidic.

I will update in the spring with how the tree is doing then.

 

[Raintree]

You're wasting your time if you think pine needle mulch is going to put a dent in soil PH.