(Refurb) Poulan pp5020av wont start for first use

[reign1981]

ordered a refurbished chainsaw from vminnovation the other day and went out today, bought new 1 gallon gas can, filled at gas station to 1 gallon line then added the 3.2oz full syn that came with saw. Followed directions to start and started but sounded like was stumbling? Best way to describe it is not very smooth, surging then almost dying... ran about 15 sec then died out, pulled again and starts for sometimes few seconds but never more than 15 seconds. Nice amount of white/gray smoke as well. If I try pull trigger it instantly dies and one time I pushed in on primer bulb and rpms surged but again slowed and died. Tried pulling spark plug and was all black so cleaned it off with some starter fluid as well as sprayed inside of hole and shook it upside down...same results. Again took apart and this is what I see. Also took off what I assume is the muffler. My first experience with a chainsaw is not going very well lol. Thanks for any help.

 

[redunshee]

wish I could help you but I don't own a 5020. My first thought is the crab needs adjusting. I would start by setting the Lo and Hi needles at 1 1/4 open from lightly seated. I would also clean the muffler out as much as possible. Hint: never use starting fluid. Your much better off putting a little mix in the cylinder. Hopefully someone who owns a 5020 will pipe in with the correct carb settings.

 

[zogger]

a refurb..speculation..original owner put bar oil in the mix fuel tank. It never was fully cleaned out.

 

[Farley9n]

I too got one of those from the same seller. Mine came quite clean, looked good and had good compression. However, it must have thrown the chain right off as several drive links were burred so much that it wouldn't fit the bar. Once that was fixed, it started fine but needed quite a bit of carb adjusting before it would run smooth, have response, and idle. (I have the tool for that ) Once it runs decent enough to put it in wood, get it warm and continue adjusting. It can take a while but they are good saws for the money and with a real chain they cut well enough........Bob

 

[reign1981]

So I cleaned it all as best I could without removing carb as I don't really know how to do all that. Also read up on adjusting carb so turned left screw in all the way(about 2-3 full turns) and back out again about 1 1/4 turns to start with using needle nose since I don't have tool. Started right up and idles fine and I can pull trigger and runs fast but once I let go of trigger it dies but will start right back up again 1-2 pulls at half choke. Also when looking in case above muffler was able to find and pull some 4-5" long pieces of wood. Yea, doesn't look like a very good "refurb" job and states it is manufacturer refurb on the site.

 

[zogger]

More richening-out- on the low speed screw I think. Left screw, yes, closest to the cylinder.

The definitive thread on the pp5020av here. Unfortunately the pics are lost, but lots of good reading

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ulan-pro-5020-to-see-what-there-about.192321/

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Mine didnt start, idle or run right (couldnt keep it running) NEW out of box (not reburb). Quick carb adjustments and it has been the easiest saw I have owned to start.
If it would have been someone else I would have imagined them returning it.

 

[reign1981]

Thanks for help provided so far guys. Going to try and play with carb some more. Any easy way to come across the carb tool? Harbor Frieght or something like that? Located in Newark, DE if know any stores that carry it. Thanks again!

Also Could all that black gunk on screen be from me running it those few times for 10-15 seconds or is that clearly something that wasn't cleaned up during refurb process?

 

[zogger]

Thanks for help provided so far guys. Going to try and play with carb some more. Any easy way to come across the carb tool? Harbor Frieght or something like that? Located in Newark, DE if know any stores that carry it. Thanks again!

Also Could all that black gunk on screen be from me running it those few times for 10-15 seconds or is that clearly something that wasn't cleaned up during refurb process?

Well, they didn't refurb anything sounds like. I bet they cranked it once, it sorta ran, back for sale.

Just take a propane torch and burn that carbon off the screen.

I don't own one, some guys that do will maybe tell you a better ball park figure on the H and L screws to start with.

The splined driver is sorta hard to get anymore, the epa got the companies scared, the dealers can't/won't sell them to "civvies".. Theoretically they can still be found occasionally on ebay.

A flat electrical female spade connector, the round end where a wire would go will fit over the splined screw, the flat end of the connector will fit a small flat blade screw driver. Just look at it and grab the closest size you can find.

Or some small like copper or aluminum tubing, same deal force over scew head, pinch the other end to accept a flatblade screwdriver.

 

[redunshee]

So I cleaned it all as best I could without removing carb as I don't really know how to do all that. Also read up on adjusting carb so turned left screw in all the way(about 2-3 full turns) and back out again about 1 1/4 turns to start with using needle nose since I don't have tool. Started right up and idles fine and I can pull trigger and runs fast but once I let go of trigger it dies but will start right back up again 1-2 pulls at half choke. Also when looking in case above muffler was able to find and pull some 4-5" long pieces of wood. Yea, doesn't look like a very good "refurb" job and states it is manufacturer refurb on the site.

You may need to turn in your idle screw. Normally it's the lone screw sitting by itself and may be labelled LA. Turn it enough so it idles but does not turn the chain.

 

[CTYank]

My new one never has given probs, exc for the fuel filter falling off. (Take-away: flush the tank often.)
I'd lose the chicom? plug first.
Prev. owner clearly didn't know how to run a saw- @WOT, or at idle. (Adjust the idle with both the "L" screw and the throttle-stop screw.)
Running that saw at all like you should, the spark-arrester screen would be squeaky-clean. Do NOT burn it clean- let the exhaust do it.
Carb tool: some crimp-on electrical connectors will engage the screw splines. Crimp the other end on a suitable single-strand cable.
My PP5020 has been very well behaved, clean and frugal of fuel, for a 2-stroke. Cuts 18" diameter shagbark hickory just fine, thanks.

 

[jasper89]

I got mine today. In the original box and it came with a hard case and a bottle of synthetic oil. It looks absolutely new without a speck of dirt and the chain, sprocket and bar are pristine. Never used. Will take pics ASAP

This is just a small point but, back in the day... we were always told to put the oil in first, before the gas so it would mix better in the can, otherwise the oil had a tendency to float on the gas.

Not sure if this is at all true with the modern oil but it made for better mixing. Good luck with that saw!

 

[jasper89]

This is it. I can't find a single blemish on it anywhere. No sign that it has ever been used. Not a single scratch or spec of dirt.
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What do you think of the way it runs/cuts?

 

[dswensen]

This is it. I can't find a single blemish on it anywhere. No sign that it has ever been used. Not a single scratch or spec of dirt.

Where did you get it and how much? Maybe we can start another "quake run"..

 

[s sidewall]

On all the poulan I have, I have taken the carbs off and cut across the carb with a hacksaw at the adjustment needles, that way no tool but a pocket screwdriver is needed like it use to be. Got tired of trying to keep up with that special tool you need to adjust these things with. Have done about twenty carbs like that. Try it you will not regret it.

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