Refurbishing and older wood stove or ?

[Davej_07]

Ok, my plan was to have a wood stove installed before the snow flies........well it still hasn't happened. I'm still using my fireplace with blower and its SO inefficient! Anyway, I'm combing Craigslist for a useable stove and I'm looking for opinions, should I keep looking for the perfect deal or should I buy and older stove and rehab it?
New fire bricks, sand and paint, etc.

Dave

 

[Mac88]

Ok, my plan was to have a wood stove installed before the snow flies........well it still hasn't happened. I'm still using my fireplace with blower and its SO inefficient! Anyway, I'm combing Craigslist for a useable stove and I'm looking for opinions, should I keep looking for the perfect deal or should I buy and older stove and rehab it?
New fire bricks, sand and paint, etc.

Dave

We have a Resolute airtight circa 1988. We overhauled it last year. Well worth the cost versus buying new.

 

[Fred Wright]

Agreed, a secondhand wood burner will save some serious cash.

Years back I had an '80s-vintage Riteway heater that would run us out of the house, it burned that hot. Got it dirt-cheap from a homeowner in the 'burbs. A little cosmetic work was all it needed.

 

[Streblerm]

I went the route you are talking about. I burned an old vermont castings defiant. It kept the house warm and the furnace off, but I burned nearly 8 cords a year doing it. Last year at the end of the heating season I replaced it with an Englander stove on closeout from Home Depot. It was $700 out the door. I haven't used it for a full season, but in the shoulder season and into spring my wood usage was cut in half vs the Defiant.

I wish I would have just bought the newer EPA rated stove in the first place. I'm looking at the energy that went into processing an extra 9-12 cords that I used in the old stove over three years and it makes the price of the new stove seem insignificant.

As far as refurbishing goes, there are several nice stoves in the +/-$1000 range available new. By the time you buy a used stove for a few hundred, put some money into parts, and have some labor in it, you are probably halfway to a new stove.

On the other hand, I have a nice used defiant I'll make you a deal on:msp_wink::msp_wink:

 

[howard270]

I am all about saving money and LOVE to cut firewood, but as Streblerm pointed out it may be better to get an EPA stove (whether it be new or used) to save yourself time and money in the long run on the amount of wood burned in the stove or insert.

I bought a new Osburn 2400 insert and only burned 1.9 cords of hardwood total to completely heat my house and attached insulated garage this past winter. My father-in-law burned about 5 cords of hardwood to supplement his central furnace in his old fisher stove this past winter.

I paid less than $1,800 for my insert and he only paid a couple hundred for his Fisher stove, but after a few years the time and money for the extra wood will add up, expecially as the body ages.

Right now I wouldn't mind the extra cutting, but I am in my early 30s and fairly physically fit, but I know this won't last. Plus I start a new job next week and will not have near the free time I have had the past 2 years in my current job.


Hopefully you can find a good, used EPA stove or insert through your searching.

My 2 cents.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Davej -

If you should decide to go the rehab route make sure your stove has the original EPA tags on the back.

I live in the burbs of Milwaukee and the municipality I live in (and my insurance company) REQUIRED the tags be in place.

I bought an older, good stove, that is EPA rated but the tag had fallen off (and did not come with the stove). I was not able to install it because neither my municipality nor my h.o. insurance company would allow it.

Shari

PS I then took the plunge and bought a new Jotul Oslo and took advantage of the then tax incentive. We are loving our Oslo!

 

[MishMouse]

I would stay away from Craigslist or Ebay stoves.
Reasons:
1) You do not know what you are getting, there could be unknown damage to the stove that could cause serious issues
2) Cost of repair
3) Time to repair
4) Price, when you add the cost of the stove, + the materials to repair it, + the time to repair it you really do not save that much if any over a new stove
5) No Warranty
6) Smoke Dragon and may not be EPA rated
7) If not EPA rated your insurance may not cover it

If you are on a budget I would suggest the Englander NC30 (Heats 1,800 - 2,200 sq. ft) or one of it counter parts (Summers Heat, Timber Ridge) that are sold at the big box stores.
They are EPA rated and from what others have said their customer service rates batter then most stove companies on the market.
Typical pricing on their large model stove is under $1K, when on sale and closeout people have been picking them up for under $800.
What you get would depend on the area that you are heating and how much you want to spend.
I own a Harman TL-300 which heats my ~2000 sqft home and can go 16 hours before re-loading.
If you really want something that goes along time between re-loads I would look at the Blaze King.

 

[Zeus103363]

Exactly what I did. When we moved in, my mom had bought a gas insert onsale at lowes. I bought it from them them for $5 bucks. Pretty easy to install. Looked good too. On the first ice storm, the propane was our only source of heat with out electricity. Man did that thing burn up the dollars! My dad always burned wood and I wanted to go that route too but we didn't have time to get our stuff together to buy an insert right after moving in. The next spring I was helping a buddy of mine clean out an old barn and low and behold there was a little buck 26000 back in the corner! I asked what was he gonna Ido with it, he said haul it off. It went in the back of my truck! But what really got my heart pounding was the big buck 28000 that the little buck was sitting on top of! Both went into the truck! That 28000 cleaned right up, and looks great with a fresh high temp paint job new gaskets and glass. It's been in my fireplace going on 3 years. I cleaned up the little buck and sold it for $500 bucks! That payed for my stainless liner job I did last year. That insert total cost for rebuild was $250 and has been the best investment to date! Most of that cost was a new thermostat for the 3 speed motor, and the tempered glass. The whole family loves a crackling fire on those cold frosty nights and the heat it gives off is awesome too! I gave that gas insert back to my mom, and didn't ask for my $5 bucks back either! I probably spent $2000 per winter for gas for that thing. Never will use gas again for heat or looks! Just make sure you check out what you by closely!

 

[stihly dan]

My first stove was an EPA rated jotul Fire light 12 that I got for free off cl. Stove looked great, thought it only needed 1 piece of glass to be good to go. I waited to fall to start fixing it. What a mistake! Upon inspection I noticed a heat shield missing, then the rear looked warped. I tried to remove the rear shield broke the bolts, found the shield behind that was cracked. Then came upon the catalyst that needed to be replaced. Total in parts would be $1350. No way. Sold the stove to a stove guy that guts them and turns them into old smoke monsters. At the last minute I had to find a decent stove cheap, not easy in the fall when everyone else is too.

 

[isaaccarlson]

Whatever you get, make sure it will do the job. We have a few stoves.

The on in the house is a LOPI ANSWER. It works well and keeps the house warm. It doesn't take big logs, but it does put out some heat. We have to get a blower for it.

The one in the pole shed(soon to be our new home) is a Kitchen Queen 480. That is a STOVE!!! You can fit a whole rounds in as big as you can lift!
It will bake your bread, fry your bacon, heat your water, and keep your tired butt warm. Well worth the money.

We also have a small box stove in case the chicken coop and pig house get too cold. Start a fire and let it smolder to keep the birds and pigs warm.
It also comes in handy for cooking.

The last one on the list is my barrel stove. If the pole shed gets too cool, this baby gets fired up to take the chill off. The barrel glows and the stove pipe creaks.....nothing in the world compares to a barrel stove. I like to see the flames dancing behind the steel......just keep an eye on it if you do that.:msp_ohmy:

ALWAYS keep a stove on hand and a few pieces of stove pipe to fit. I have moved my barrel stove around a lot to heat different buildings. Easy to build.

 

[greendohn]

If you have the money, go with an EPA/hi-efficiency stove. When the hard ware in the top of one of those starts burning the solids in the smoke it looks like a gas/lp fired burner. That stuff burning off is what would be going up your flu-pipe.
I have never owned one. I am around two different models/manufactures regularly and the one swears by at least a 1/3rd reduction in wood consumption if not more(Lopi brand), the second guy has never owned a wood stove but I have fed it plenty of times last winter and it seems a good stove(farm store brand). Watching the "after-burner" burn off the solids makes for a good looking fire.( am i explaining that right? )

Good luck, hope you find a good deal.

 

[Fyrebug]

If you're looking for a deal on a new stove, check out Northern Tools web site: wood stove from Northern Tool + Equipment

The Century brand in made in North America (we make them) and they are EPA rated except for the Whistler.

Let me know if you have questions.

 

[kylemorley]

Whatever you do, stay away from used Vermont Castings stoves. The lovely cast iron exteriors of VC's EPA stoves conceal insanely delicate refractory assemblies, which are easily damaged and need periodic replacement - every 5-10 years depending on how gently they are used. VC has gone though so many bankruptcies and changes of ownership that current management seems to feel no responsibility for old customers, and has marked up parts prices until they are unconscionably high. - to rebuild my VC stove would cost about $900 just for parts, and no amount of furnace cement and ingenuity can get around that. The thing is, it still looks lovely, and you could never tell from the outside how bad it is on the inside!

 

[PEKS]

If at all possible, go with an EPA Hi-Efficiency Woodstove, money well spent..

 

[blades]

Dave, When I get to my shop a little later I will find the web sight for Englander, Back door sales. I think they make an Insert for the fireplace. at any rate that is how I got my nc 30, shipped to truck depot here in town on south side. At the time it was about $8-900 including the shipping. I just do not have that sight on this machine. Also sometimes you can get an insane deal on some of the Englander items from Home depot off the web( not in store) like a nc30 for 600 shipped to your door. They were out when bought mine. but you have to bounce around zip code wise on their sight to find that kind of deal. Drolet at Northern is made in Canada, there have been a few reviews of these mostly favorable. Englander has great support, which is #1 in my book.
I also have a pd55xxxx pellet stove of Englander's at my shop got to finish cleaning it yet ( got used of c/l) it was mfg'ed in 6-11 for 1/2 retail ( decent deal) not fancy though. So we will see how that goes in a bit.

Glad to see ya still hanging in there Sheri, stay warm, Chris

 

[blades]

Hi Dave, web sight "Overstock stove.com" fireplace insert $1099 shipped to local depot you pick up there. insert rated for 1500 sq ft. Might be better deals out there so for what its worth.

 

[NDtreehugger]

I bought an allnighter

100.00 bgucks,

All bricks were in the stove all it needs is a bit of paint, since its a stove for the shop no hurry for the paint.

Going on the 2nd seasion dig it, 100 bucks out of my pocket, I used 2 cords for the shop last year, saved me 1200.00.

I say go for it, used refurbs are well worth the money. The allnighter is one if not the first airtight.
Forget about the EPA go for the airtight, that will give you good control of the burn time.