Removing Dreaded Carbon Buildup

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Hagstar

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Is there anything that will soften carbonized oil inside mufflers- maybe carb cleaner? Or is scraping the only method? :eek:

John H.
 
What about using Seafoam, Techron or any of the other 2-stroke fuel additives? I use Techron in my Yamaha 175 and it actually removed some carbon buildup on my prop. The benefit on the marine engines is it keeps carbon from building up behind the rings which leads to stuck rings. I would think this would help clean up the inside of the muffler while it runs.

I must appologize as I haven't searched on this topic yet but wondering if there is any experience with that?
 
Remove muffler and screen.

Use mapp gas torch to burn all the junk out, repaint with wood stove paint if you want to.

Put it back together, done.
 
I keep telling you guys, you won't have that carbon if you use a good synthetic oil, or at least you won't have as much. An oil such as Klotz Techniplate doesn't burn, it just goes through the engine and leaves a vapor out the exhaust if mixed right. If too rich, it just runs out as a liquid. I used it in my Suzuki RM250 for years and no carbon. Sometimes I had to wipe the oil off the pipe when I ran it too rich.
 
I keep telling you guys, you won't have that carbon if you use a good synthetic oil, or at least you won't have as much.

THANKS for all the great replies. In my case I'm removing carbon from a 1974 Mighty Mite muffler on a saw I'm restoring that's nearly done so it's too late to prevent it. I put it in a plastic bag after soaking it with over cleaner and will check it this afternoon.

I think most of the carbon comes in this case from the burned bar oil. EVERY Remington I've worked on seems to have at least some weeping of the bar oil into the fuel through the oil tank pressurisation circuit.

John H.
 
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THANKS for all the great replies. In my case I'm removing carbon from a 1974 Mighty Mite muffler on a saw I'm restoring that's nearly done so it's too late to prevent it. I put it in a plastic bag after soaking it with over cleaner and will check it this afternoon.

I think most of the carbon comes in this case from the burned bar oil. EVERY Remington I've worked on seems to have at least some weeping of the bar oil into the fuel through the oil tank pressurisation circuit.

John H.

I have a Homelite and McCulloch that did that also.
 
I keep telling you guys, you won't have that carbon if you use a good synthetic oil, or at least you won't have as much. An oil such as Klotz Techniplate doesn't burn, it just goes through the engine and leaves a vapor out the exhaust if mixed right. If too rich, it just runs out as a liquid. I used it in my Suzuki RM250 for years and no carbon. Sometimes I had to wipe the oil off the pipe when I ran it too rich.

Klotz R50 does leave carbon. Matter of fact, it leaves more than I like. That's the only reason I've switched oils.
 
Klotz R50 does leave carbon. Matter of fact, it leaves more than I like. That's the only reason I've switched oils.

Another forum member was using Klotz in his Shindaiwa trimmer, it seized the engine from buildup on the piston & rings. His chainsaws run fine on the same mix.
 
Paint stripper works well on removing carbon

Ah HA! Great idea, we are talking about oxidized oil here- and that's just what dried oil base paint is....thanks.

The oven cleaner did loosen the carbon so I could steel brush it off. Oven cleaner though (once mostly lye) ain't what it used to be, I can tell because it doesn't burn like fire when the tiniest drop touches flesh like in the 70s. The factory coating (the put hot part into oil treatment I think) is still intact, praise be. Little old Mighty Mite is looking resplendent in his new coat of Chevy Orange engine enamel. I'm not bothering to punch holes in the baffle, it would be like milling the head and porting a Ford Fiesta engine. Or this- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mutb7KgA9NM&feature=related.

John H.
 
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RE: Klotz oil and carbon deposits:

Klotz main market is the ultra-performance racing two-strokes. These guys tear their engines down and re-ring really often. Carbon build-up isn't a problem if your engine is rebuilt every 12 hrs.

I saw the thread on excess carbon on BLSnelling's saw, but he was also careful to admit that he likes to mix at 32:1, and that the folks at Klotz advised less oil. I think we're learning that there CAN be too much of a good thing: there might be disadvantages to overkill.


maybe disrespecting prepackaged mix from the OPE guys is a mistake...might it be that the relatively pedestrian blends on the dealer shelves are really well-suited to the application?

But the real question would be for sopmeone else to try this stuff:
http://www.rejuvenateyourengine.com/
and report back if it actually works.
 
Another forum member was using Klotz in his Shindaiwa trimmer, it seized the engine from buildup on the piston & rings. His chainsaws run fine on the same mix.

Like I said, you could say the sky is azure blue and someone will say it's not. I was just relating MY experience with Klotz techniplate. I don't know where the R50 came from. I've never had a buildup on motocross bikes, chainsaws or lawnboy mowers in all these years.
 
RE: Klotz oil and carbon deposits:

Klotz main market is the ultra-performance racing two-strokes. These guys tear their engines down and re-ring really often. Carbon build-up isn't a problem if your engine is rebuilt every 12 hrs.

I saw the thread on excess carbon on BLSnelling's saw, but he was also careful to admit that he likes to mix at 32:1, and that the folks at Klotz advised less oil. I think we're learning that there CAN be too much of a good thing: there might be disadvantages to overkill.


maybe disrespecting prepackaged mix from the OPE guys is a mistake...might it be that the relatively pedestrian blends on the dealer shelves are really well-suited to the application?

But the real question would be for sopmeone else to try this stuff:
http://www.rejuvenateyourengine.com/
and report back if it actually works.

I doubt an oil like Klotz that can be run at 60:1 should be run at 32:1, but even when I put in a little extra oil it didn't carbon up, it just ran out the exhaust as a liquid. But each person has his own preference and I respect that.
 
RE: Klotz oil and carbon deposits:

Klotz main market is the ultra-performance racing two-strokes. These guys tear their engines down and re-ring really often. Carbon build-up isn't a problem if your engine is rebuilt every 12 hrs.

I saw the thread on excess carbon on BLSnelling's saw, but he was also careful to admit that he likes to mix at 32:1, and that the folks at Klotz advised less oil. I think we're learning that there CAN be too much of a good thing: there might be disadvantages to overkill.


maybe disrespecting prepackaged mix from the OPE guys is a mistake...might it be that the relatively pedestrian blends on the dealer shelves are really well-suited to the application?

But the real question would be for sopmeone else to try this stuff:
http://www.rejuvenateyourengine.com/
and report back if it actually works.

Yes the trimmer engine I mentioned was being run at 32:1
 
Dreaded carbon buildup ?

I use PB BLASTER engine " tune up " to flush the carbon out of the small engines I repair. It will work just fine on your muffler as well I am sure. Pick some up at the hardware store or wherever. It comes in a spray can. The stuff is the best thing I have found for breaking up gunk.
Sunny ( Riversidelife )
 
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