Replace my Vigilant? How much better is a new stove?

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My Resolute Acclaim is from the same time frame.....but certainly not a cat stove. Sure your's was/is?
Doing some research there where two models 0041 was non catalytic and 2490 had some kind of cat combustion chamber. We may be replacing it this year. It's been a very good stove but it's showing its age.
 
If there is another new stove for me, this is the one. It is front or side loading and has grate and ash pan, empty the ashes without stirring up a lot of dust in the house or having to disturb the fire.

https://www.woodheat.com/products/stoves/wood-stoves/jotul-f500-oslo-cf.html
I have had an Oslo for about 10 years. Love it. It easily keeps our 2000 square ft home comfortable in central Va. I burn about 2 to 2.5 cords of dry mixed hardwoods a year. And I know that we do not live in a challenging heating area but the stove is a simple, very functional design that produces good heat and does not soot the chimney up. One cleaning year is all that its needed. Watching the fire at night has become a favorite way to wind down at the end of the day. I just use the side door to load mine up. W. Jones
 
Over 15 years now and running strong. A very nice fire view, lots of heat, an ash pan and beautiful construction. Jotul F-600CB

View attachment 661289

Oh yeah, I like that one too, but would take some rearranging since the side load door is on the other side. Haven't checked the price difference in that one and the Oslo.
 
Oh yeah, I like that one too, but would take some rearranging since the side load door is on the other side. Haven't checked the price difference in that one and the Oslo.

It is too bad that the Oslo and Firelight aren't available in mirror imaged models.

Mine for instance needs the side door on the right side of the stove. This puts loading in an area that is over brick. Left side would be over hardwood floor.
 
I’m still using a tempwood top loader from the 70’s. It’s time to up grade in the basement. Up stairs in the fireplace we’re thinking a Vermont castings insert. There not cheap but it seems the only way to go.

I been heating with wood since 1979. I had a Russo stove in the old house. I’m sorry I left it.

My trick for getting the longest burn time with good heat is I use two temp gauges. One on the stove and one on the stove pipe. The damper on the stove controls the amount of air that goes in the stove. The damper on the pipe controls how much heat goes up the pipe. The gauges have heat zones marked so you know when your sending creosote up the pipe. I run the stove around 300/350 degrees and send about 250 up the pipe.

I’m a tad over 2 cords of firewood per year in ct.
 
We do not use/have a damper on the pipe, but I'll try the two temp gauge idea next season.
Sounds like a great idea.
Some gauges are marked for stove top use and others indicate 12" above stove on flue.
We do have two stoves, one in the house and one in a shop. The two gauges we have register 100* different when switched from one stove to the other. I do not detect a heat difference. Not sure if the gauges are different, or the installation makes some difference. One has a straight flue the other rises 3', 90's a foot and a half and tees up and out, and down with a cap/clean out. The tile wall is a metal stud false wall in front of the wall behind it. First photo is outside air intake at lower back of stove. The second photo shows the color deepens considerably when in use.IMG_4398.jpg
IMG_4097.jpg
 
The damper on the pipe controls what heat loss you have up the chimney. It keeps the heat in the stove. The air intake on the stove controls your wood burn time and temperature. Once you try it trust me it works.
 
An inexpensive infrared heat gun makes an easy way to check temps on various things. We "play with ours regularly, stove related and other things. Handy gadget.
 
The damper on the pipe controls what heat loss you have up the chimney. It keeps the heat in the stove. The air intake on the stove controls your wood burn time and temperature. Once you try it trust me it works.
I ran pipe dampers on stoves years ago, but the new stoves with cats or secondary burns don't need them. Actually they need a stronger draft, so a damper is no good.
 

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