Replacing Maul Handles

[Gypo Logger]

Being as popular as I am and whatnot, I am always being deluged with emails, pm's and phone calls about saws and stuff or simply just people who want to be graced with my incredible woodsman like prowess.
Anyway, one of the 'fan mail' type emails I got today was about maul handles which I think is a good one to post here:

What is the best method to replace wooden handles. I have always soaked them in water after installing them. But how long and steps to complete before, I don't remember ever hearing best known practice. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[pbtree]

Gypo, you must be anticipating a lot or response to this thread, as it is posted twice twice!!

 

[begleytree]

not anymore
-Ralph

 

[vharrison2]

He posted it twice because he is that popular!!

 

[Gypo Logger]

Gypo, you must be anticipating a lot or response to this thread, as it is posted twice twice!!

Ya, I noticed that PBtree, I got knocked offline when I hit sumit, then when I got back online and resubmitted, I was there was two of the same threads.
It's actually a good subject about the handles as have changed over a 100 and I will pipe in after I put in my 3 hrs. in the bush. lol
It's a tough job, but somebodys got to do it!
Just got a 3500$ quote on my tractor and they just ordered the parts!
John

 

[Crofter]

I have read dont soak them. It causes swelling that crushes fibres and unless you keep them wet, any time they dry out they shrink loose. The secret is to have a very good fit with no places of poor contact. Drive em home hard and use good stout wedges after. Varnish the end and all around the handle to seal and try not to leave your maul ( or axe ) standing in the snow where it can pick up moisture. It is the wetting and drying that loosens them.

 

[ShoerFast]

Poplar John

To your fan,
"What is the best method to replace wooden handles. I have always soaked them in water after installing them. But how long and steps to complete before, I don't remember ever hearing best known practice. Any help will be greatly appreciated."

I'm with Crofter with the no water thing, sealing it after a good fit with something like Gorrella Glue or polly-urathane could possably make it last a little longer.

I have been useing the yellow fiberglass replacments, with the 2 part epoxy and putting the handle protector right next to the head as over-reaching is going to happen.
The yellow replacments are like 15 bucks, and a a torch will clean up all the old epoxy. Duck tape the the hole ya dont want the handle in and fill with the epoxy , prop the handle up so everything stays centered, wal-la!

Kevin

 

[SWE#Kipp]

I put my handels by the fireplace so they dry up, then i fit them to the axe/maul and the moist in the air will make them stay at place, i also use one wood wedge and a small metal wedge to secure it,
after that i oil them

 

[turnkey4099]

I have never had a handle that would fit straight from the rack. I use the old 'shade tree, beer, busted window glass' to shave them down. Keep trying them for fit until they seat almost all the way - drive home, wedge. I never soak them until they become loose. I'll set them in a bucket of water overnight. Usually by the time soaking is needed, they are on their last legs anyhow. I never tried the fiberglass ones as I like the "sping" in a good wood handle. Never did bother with a handle protector either but probably should.

Harry K

 

[jp hallman]

I'd think it would be mighty difficult to keep em' dry forever if you use one everyday. I soak my axe and maul handles in antifreeze. Antifreeze won't evaporate. Been working for years.

 

[turnkey4099]

I'd think it would be mighty difficult to keep em' dry forever if you use one everyday. I soak my axe and maul handles in antifreeze. Antifreeze won't evaporate. Been working for years.

Hmmm, never thought of that. I did try soaking them in used motor oil. Didn't do much but then the handle was on its last legs anyhow.

Harry K

 

[blacknightwolf]

always used the fiberglass replacements seam to hold up well and easy to apply

 

[wradman]

I've wedged a few trees in my time i would recommend drilling the axe and pinning it with a 5/16" roll pin then grind off the exess you will only have to drill out the wood on the next handle , if you get a really good tight fit right off the bat with a new handle you should only have to soak it in water occaisionally which would be about once a month for one night, if i'm falling a large block you can sometime just leave it in a creek overnight

 

[Stumper]

JP, With the antifreeze the maul never sticks in the wood, right?

 

[jp hallman]

You betcha'! Oh wait...wouldn't that be "Anti-seize"?

 

[TroutBrookFarms]

My Garant maul is the best one I've owned. It's two years old and the handle is drying out. I've always used shellac for this kind of thing in the past. Should I do something different??

 

[redprospector]

There is a product called "Chair Lock", it is made to keep the rungs tight in chairs. It works very well in axes and mauls as well.
It should be available at most woodworking supply stores.

Andy

 

[MikeInParadise]

Definitely soak in Antifreeze

Antifreeze gets into the wood fibres and swells just like water but unlike water leaves the wood cells expanded when it dries. With water the handle can dry out again, the cells shrink back closer to original size and the head will once again become loose.

 

[klickitatsacket]

I store my handles indoors to keep them bone dry as well. The one thing I found though that works better than anything else is "Plumbers Goop" This is a clear silicone glue type stuff. I fit my handles tight and them remove and then glue them in with plumbers goop. I make circle wedges out of 1/2" steel water pipe as they expand in all directions. I never have a problem with hnadle coming loose. I will admit though I hate replacing a broken handle when needed.