Rigging Plate

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rmihalek

Where's the wood at?
Joined
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I got one of those paw rigging plates to help me with some line management while in the tree. I needed to set a new, higher, tie-in point (TIP) in this black ash I've been climbing in my backyard because my stuck throw bag was a good 15 feet or so above me. I saw a good crotch and got a throw line through it and pulled the running end of my climbing line up through the new crotch. I was all set to tie in with a new split tail when I realized that I couldn't get the four carabiners into the little triangular screw-link carabiner that came with my saddle. With my weight on two of the carabiners, I wasn't able to reposition them. My saddle has side D's, but they were occupied with my lanyard, and the stem I was on had no branches from where I was up to my new tie-in point. I was in a pickle, at 55 feet, so I decided to descend and think it over.

I was flipping through the Sherrill catalog when I saw the rigging plate and decided that something like that might help. I bought the plate and tried it out again a couple weekends ago. Turns out Sherrill sent me a bigger plate than the one pictured: the one I have has six holes along the top, two on the side and a big one in the middle. I attached the big one in the middle to my screw link and my two split tail carabiners to two of the holes on the end.

One thing I discovered is that the 'biner that was on the split tail gets slacked when I pull up on the running end of the line (to ascend) and tends to drop over the side of the plate. At about 15 feet off the ground, I looked down at the plate to see how things looked and realized that the gate on the 'biner was getting loaded in the "slipped" position. I didn't like that so I needed to descend to figure something out. I probably should have some pictures here to show what I did, but basically I just repositioned the split tail carabiner so that even when the line is slack, it can't fall over the edge of the plate and load the gate.

So, once that was worked out, I was able to ascend back up to my original TIP. I grabbed the tag line I left in the higher crotch and used it to pull the running end of my climbing line back up through the crotch. I tied in a new split tail and hooked it all the plate and was able to ascend to the new TIP where I could grab this stuck throw bag before the squirrels decided to use it as ballast or to chew my $22 zing-it line in half.

The plate is pretty cool and has more attachment points than I know what to do with right now. I don't know why Sherrill sent me the bigger plate, but I'm glad they did. There was one time when I was taking down a dead limb that I needed to reach forward quite a bit and the plate ended up digging into my chest a bit, but other than that, it's a cool device.
 
Interesting experiment there Bob. That's why I don't use split-tails generally. I like to double crotch and I don't like managing 4 biners. Too much going on in a small area. Some climbers will anchor their climbing line and the split-tail on the same biner thus solving the problem. That could work work pretty well though you'd want to be doing that with a spliced eye on your climbing line and the split-tail or things could get very cowded on the biner. I know that some climbers are very uncomfortable with the idea of tying in twice on one biner. You start to break the structural ideal of creating balanced opposing force along the spine of the biner.

One of the problems with using the plate as you may have noticed is that you're moving your hitch away from you and you're starting to get hardware in your face. There's always a struggle minimize the distance between the saddle anchor, carabiner and the rope. When you start to add more parts that distance extends.

That's why I'm an unrelenting advocate of keep it simple to start, add parts to your climbing system after you've logged some hours on your existing system and have a practical reason based on your climbing experience to modify.

I first started climbing on a split-tail 'cause I thought it made so much sense but then realized that just because it made theoretical sense didn't make it right for my climbing style.
-moss
 
rmihalek said:
I got one of those paw rigging plates to help me with some line management while in the tree.....

One thing I discovered is that the 'biner that was on the split tail gets slacked when I pull up on the running end of the line (to ascend) and tends to drop over the side of the plate.

OK, this might get me in trouble...I am not sure how cross-posting works now...but, since this is a safety issue I will pass this along...in terms of your rigging plate and the biners flopping around, I have had the same problem.

Currently, I am positioning the 2 life-support biners (climb line and split tail line) next to each other on my PAW 4-hole plate and using small accessory cord to tie them together with a quick slipped clove hitch. This prevents them from dropping horizontal when slack enters the system...when slack, they can drop thru the plate and you will be cross loading the gate.

While I was working this out I set up a self-tending knut with micropulley on a swivel below the plate...if a biner got cross-loaded and failed (main worry was the split tail...it flopped the most) the knut below was always there on standby. It works so well that I have just left it there.

I know, it makes for MORE gear but it is a good backup for me. Here is a link that shows a picture of the knut backup for the "rocking split tail biner". Scroll down about 1/2 way to Img0070(2) and you will see my rig.

http://????????????????/treehouse/viewtopic.php?t=2720&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=480
 
pantheraba said:
OK, the software won't let you go there...I guess your safety don't matter.

I'll see if I can find the picture.

Freaky but effective :) Is your pear screwlink attached left-handed to your saddle on purpose? Would think you'd want the plate in between the fabric saddle loops. Everyone's a critic :) Thanks for posting the photo, always great to see a climber's saddle attachment etc. Might be a good thread to start "Photograph your saddle/rope attachment". The creativity there is always interesting.
-moss
 
moss said:
Freaky but effective :) Is your pear screwlink attached left-handed to your saddle on purpose? Would think you'd want the plate in between the fabric saddle loops. Everyone's a critic :)
-moss


Good observation...I did have it set up wrong at that time...LumberJack (at the TreeHouse) noted that, too, and I fixed it...thanks for paying such close attention.
 
That's a nice set up, Pantheraba. I see what Moss is saying too, with the saddle loops being on one side of the PAW.

If I can remember to get my wife's camera with me, I'll take a picture of this rig that I have in either the single rope set-up or with the double set using four 'biners.

Thanks.
 
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