To answer the thread question, I support the use of standard chain for a one-of use.
I have done the test on my 'laboratory' mill using a Stihl 075 (111 cc) driving a 1 meter long bar. The best cut done the fastest is always achieved with standard chain, full complement. I wrecked two perfectly good new chains by modifying them to 5 - 10 degree top angle and skip tooth respectively. The very roughest slowest cut was with zero degrees double skip - useless. In fact this chain also made the powerhead use just on twice the fuel and twice the lube oil as the standard angle full compliment chain did.
This does not sound right.
Except for problems with the zero angle chain, this does not sound right.
I would be interested in reading the full procedure of your experiment. (I am an experimental scientist and trained at examining experimental procedures)
Other info I will need.
What sort of timber (type, how long down, cleanliness etc
What length and width of cut were you timing?
What size/type of chain (gauge, cutter shape, etc)
Full details of your filing method.
The rakers depths would have to be adjusted a long way after doing that conversion. I presume you did that and not just to 0.025"?
BTW what raker depths are you using?
Then list the sequence of events that you did during the conversion. If you don't want to do this publically I'm happy to do this via PM of email
The 5-10 degree top plate full comp chain should give the smoothest cut. This is because each cutter is cuts a little whereas skip chain teeth have to cut more per tooth and so increases the washboard effect. My experience is that skip is only noticeably different in speed in very wide soft logs. The downside in hard Aussie timber is skip chains go blunt quicker, so they have to be sharpened more often. Although there are less cutters, that does not help when you are halfway down a 48" wide hardwood slab.
Higher top plate cutter angles are designed to cause the cutters to dig in sideways away from the line of cut for cross cutting to deliberately make a wide kerf so the bar does not easily jam. However, when ripping (bar jam is rarely an issue) so high top plate angles increase the washboard effect, unnecessarily widens the kerf, makes more sawdust and uses more fuel than a properly tuned ripping chain.
For authority look at Will Malloff's book on chainsaw lumber making. I started with full comp chain and read his book after becoming a convert to a well tuned 10º ripping chain.