"Ripping" large firewood blocks

[albngore]

I have some 30" cottonwood blocks, maybe 20 of them, cut to woodstove length (22"). But, the blocks are too heavy for me to lift onto the wood splitter. So, I had a thought that rather than make the effort to try and split these with a wedge and sledge, that I might "rip" them in half to a carryable weight. I have a Husky 372XP with a 73LG chain (24"). I don't want to destroy the chain doing this, so I'm asking if I would be better off to buy a ripping chain for this work? Or, even if it dulls the 73LG prematurely, can I get by with that chain and just sharpen frequently? Or, perhaps I could cut through halfway or so, then use the sledge and wedges to finish the split. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[timberwolf]

I can't see any problem in ripping blocks into smaller pieces, just use standard chain and keep it out of the dirt it will last just fine.

You do not want to use ripping chain in this way as free hand it could cause increased kickback, it is just not needed for ripping blocks anyway.

 

[1953greg]

have at it w/ the 372 and the 73lg chain. cutting wil b easier from the rim of the block than from the end. your 24" bar wil reach through the blocks that way also. u wil pull some really long shreads of wood, just make sure u keep your chain sprocket cleared of shreads. wil clog if u dont. as for the chain, sharpen as needed. its made for cutting wood.

good day 1953greg

 

[trimmmed]

Leave the logs laying on their side instead of standing them up. Use your regular chain, then cut right thru them, you'll make long chips instead of dust, and your chain will stay much sharper.

 

[TRUSSMAN]

I ran into a similar situation several years ago, the blocks we had were 40" red oak. I had no problems ripping them with a stihl rs chain. keep the long shreads cleared as greg said. the shreds make for some good fire starter in the wood stove.
Jeff

 

[turnkey4099]

There is cottonwood and there is cottonwood. The one I cut I swore I would never cut anohter one. Cut it 16", splitter wouldn't touch it, it wouldn't dry out, using wedges was like driving one into a pond and again it wouldn't split. Two years later I burned the last of it by cutting the 16" blocks to 8" and even then had to rip some of them.

So much for my opinion on cotton wood. As for your question:

Yes, you can do it with your chain, cut it as others have said laying on its side and keep the chips clear. There will be a -tremendous- urge to reach down and pull them out of the chip chute while the saw is running. Don't do it. Been there and done that and won't again, I came too close. It is also going to be somewhat slow going as you will have the nose buried in the block for the first cut.

Harry K

 

[460Ted]

At 22" long, you could cut them in half. I know 11" long firewood is kind of short, but the rounds will be much easier to handle.

 

[Simonizer]

If you have many cuts, try filing the chain @ 10-12 degrees instead of 25. Ripping chain is normally full-house, ground @ 10 degrees.

 

[Sprig]

Whyu bother to lift? Is there not a free (open side) on your splitter? If so just take a couple of lengths of scrap wood (longer is easier pushing, less angle etc.) and make a ramp, roll 'em on up, much less work than carrying or ripping imho.

 

[kf_tree]

hey sprig

i see your from bc.........do you know simon? i'm sure you must have heard of him up there, no?

 

[Sprig]

kf tree, Simon is on the big Island and a little further north of me (on a smaller island Saltspring, just north of Victoria) and my only familiarity with him is from this site, there are lots of people in BC and lots of chainsaw folks but it'd be a pleasure to meet and chat with him as he seems very knowlegable and interesting person who seems to take silly razzing in stride (he is still around yes?). It can be a small world though as Stu from Tokyo said, he knows some folks from here, nothing much surprises me anymore.

 

[trimmmed]

If you have many cuts, try filing the chain @ 10-12 degrees instead of 25. Ripping chain is normally full-house, ground @ 10 degrees.

Simon, have you ever cut any wood?

Why go thru the hassle of a chain re-grind, just to make a rip chain that will do the job considerably slower while at the same time increasing your kick-back potential. What is the upside to your advice?

 

[Simonizer]

kf tree, Simon is on the big Island and a little further north of me (on a smaller island Saltspring, just north of Victoria) and my only familiarity with him is from this site, there are lots of people in BC and lots of chainsaw folks but it'd be a pleasure to meet and chat with him as he seems very knowlegable and interesting person who seems to take silly razzing in stride (he is still around yes?). It can be a small world though as Stu from Tokyo said, he knows some folks from here, nothing much surprises me anymore.

Saltspring? Nice. I lived on Gabriola, (off Nanaimo) for 4 years. I am going to a very important meeting on the evening of 17JAN in Courteney BC, regarding Husqvarna saws. An engineer from Sweden will apparently be in attendance. If any pros have specific and legitimate issues, I will endeavor to have them addressed. This is only a 3 hour meeting so please be very specific. I can't make any promises as there will be about 2 other dealers there. (Walker's included). Cheers.

 

[CNYCountry]

Yes, I did this with elm last summer. One small detail I don't see here is that when you lay the block on its side and rip along the length of the grain, it helps to tip the bar up or down, the curly fries aren't so long and won't tend to clog quite as bad. I usually start with the bar tipped up and tip it down toward the end of the cut. It will still cut fast unlike trying to cut into the end of the grain but the chips/strings won't be as long.

 

[kf_tree]

Simon, have you ever cut any wood?

Why go thru the hassle of a chain re-grind, just to make a rip chain that will do the job considerably slower while at the same time increasing your kick-back potential. What is the upside to your advice?

i have to agree with trimmed........i rip wood all the time so the guys can carry it. a standard chain is fine. i have a 395 ehp with a 20in bar set up just for ripping. makes curly fries fast.

 

[kf_tree]

Simon, have you ever cut any wood?

Why go thru the hassle of a chain re-grind, just to make a rip chain that will do the job considerably slower while at the same time increasing your kick-back potential. What is the upside to your advice?

i have to agree with trimmed........i rip wood all the time so the guys can carry it. a standard chain is fine. i have a 395 ehp with a 20in bar set up just for ripping. makes curly fries fast.

 

[geofore]

why rip?

If you cut in at a 45 degree angle about the depth your bar is tall, (4"-6") on the side to make a spot to start so the wedge has a place to drop in with it only touching wood on the sides you'll find the pieces split with greater ease and it's faster than trying to rip them in half. By weakening the wood with the notch into the top side to drop the wedge in it makes them split easy and the wedge is less likely to jump out at you. It only takes a second or two to make the notch to start the wedge in. Saves on chain sharpening and how hard you have to work to split the wood by weakening the pieces before you swing the hammer. If I'm going to split a lot of large rounds by hand, I'll stand them up on end and notch them all before I put the hammer to the wedge. Don't work harder work smarter. It also gives the saw something to do to run the fuel and oil out before you put it away.

 

[albngore]

Thank you all for your responses

Great to have this much experience at my disposal. Thanks. Without your advice I would have attempted to rip these blocks from the ends. Now I know not to do that. I also wouldn't have realized that chip clearing was a problem ripping these blocks. I can now watch out for this.

BTW, I just bought this 372XP and it just screamed through the crosscutting. I was going to do a muffler mod on this saw, as I have seen recommended here, but I feel it is quite powerful and fast as it is. Perhaps I'll eventually do it anyway.

Again, my thanks. I enjoy learning from all of you. I've cut timber on and off for 30 years, but I have added to my knowledge by listening to advice and comment on AS.

 

[albngore]

Thank you all very much

Wonderful to have this advice so readily available. I am lucky to have found arborsite.

 

[trimmmed]

Btw, the long chips make great mulch.

372& chips