Ripsaw powerheads-028 didn't work out

[BIG JAKE]

I had two powerheads suitable to drive the Ripsaw. I wanted to use the 028 for the purpose but figured I'd try 'em both and then make the decision. So I cut about 100 board feet of pine yesterday. More of a test to decide which powerhead to use on the mill than maximized lumber output as I'm still getting my ducks in a row in learning how to use this thing. I used the 039 first. It had more than enough power and I was giddy zipping of planks with the combination. Judging by that performance I figured the 028 would fit the bill so I swapped powerheads. Tried a few cuts. I'll put it this way-I wouldn't be happy with the Ripsaw performance with the 028 and disappointed if I'd just outlayed the money for that combination. Manufacturer states that this powerhead will work. Actually, it's more of the characteristics of the way the 028(points/magneto) runs that I don't like, as compared to the 039, which has instant throttle response. The 028 does have enough power, but what a difference. So the 039 gets the nod.

 

[AndyR]

I've been happy with the performance of the 036 that came with mine and I think I've heard others say that as well. My problem has been with wavy cuts. I cut some stuff last weekend and it was all over the place. I never have been able to find that elusive white line for adjusting the tension. Nothing seems to move towards or line-up with anything else that would indicate a "reading" of the tension.

My ripsaw was an old unit that I upgraded the tracking adjustment mechanism on the idler wheel side. I've just been tightening till it feels right but I think I need a more scientific approach. The tension really doesn't seem loose. When tightening that tension bolt there is a point where it feels like I've hit a wall and if I tighten any more something will break.

Don't get me wrong, when it works it works well. It can just be a little frustrating sometimes...

Nice boards, by the way. looks like you got a good setup there.

Andy

 

[BIG JAKE]

I've been happy with the performance of the 036 that came with mine and I think I've heard others say that as well. My problem has been with wavy cuts. I cut some stuff last weekend and it was all over the place. I never have been able to find that elusive white line for adjusting the tension. Nothing seems to move towards or line-up with anything else that would indicate a "reading" of the tension.

My ripsaw was an old unit that I upgraded the tracking adjustment mechanism on the idler wheel side. I've just been tightening till it feels right but I think I need a more scientific approach. The tension really doesn't seem loose. When tightening that tension bolt there is a point where it feels like I've hit a wall and if I tighten any more something will break.

Don't get me wrong, when it works it works well. It can just be a little frustrating sometimes...

Nice boards, by the way. looks like you got a good setup there.

Andy

I can"t find the wite line either. I made an educated guess based on past experience with other bands and must have hit it on the nose but not over tightened. Boards came out nice. What's really a time saver is being able to leave the rail in place and keep slicing till you have no more adjustment left. I made the first cut without a rail as the beam was straight and I got an uneven cut. After that I left the rail on and adjusted the guide bar everytime and everyboard was nice and straight. You might try that Andy if you're not already doing that. Also if you're hitting a wall on the tensioner check to make sure the bolt isn't bottoming out-mark it and measure it if you're not getting enough tension on the band it'll never cut good. Longshot but maybe they put a longer bolt. If it is bottoming take 1/4" off the bolt. Also don't push hard either let it cut it's own pace and they come off the mill sweet.
I need to build some good horses and round up everything-time for a foray up in the mountains soon as I find out where the thinning is going on.
Andy let me know how your saw turns out.

 

[Al Weber]

My second hand RipSaw that I bought a couple of years ago has a notch in the frame with the white line painted in the notch. The line is probably 3/32 wide and what I find is that there is a big difference in quality of cut just in the width of the white line. Somewhere along the line I found a reference that gave a procedure for setting tension. Unfortunately I can't lay my hands on it now but basically it said to start by adding tension with the powerhead running and jogging the blade while tensioning it. If I remember correctly, it said to tighten until the blade no longer slipped on the drive wheels and then to tighten another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. It then went on to say to make a cut and add tension if the cut was wandering. Maybe Woodshop knows what I read as he is the resident expert on RipSaw. I'll continue to look for that reference and send it if I find it.

By the way, great pics. Thanks.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Sounds good Al. I read alot of threads and cut and pasted into a folder on my computer so I can reference quickly. One of the clips was a procedure to set band tension similar to what you said.

 

[Dibbs]

Milling or ripsawing will always lean towards needing more torque and power.
Your 039 will easily have more torque and power than your 028 but you need to understand the fact that the 028 is built to run all day, every day with it's magnesium caseing, however, your 039 is a "plastic" saw built for the home owner/farmer for occasional use.
Running an 039 for long periods of time in hot weather is going to melt parts of your saw.
And when I say melt, I really do mean the "solid turning to liquid" type of melt!

 

[BIG JAKE]

Understood Dibbs-aware of what saw it is. It gets pretty hot where I live but where I cut it won't get out of the 80's. I'll keep an eye on it see how it does btw same saw that ran the mill from previous owner. I see no ill effects after having gone through the saw and the bandmill. I run my poulan harder than what I'm doing cutting firewood(it's 15 yrs old now/all plastic)all day long. In the cant in the pictures it take about a minute per pass. After each pass I adjust for the next slice, so the saw cools down nicely in between cuts, idling. Probably 1-2 minutes per adjustment/beer swig . It's not getting that hot. For chainsaw slabbing I run the 066. If I end up doing a lot of milling I'll upgrade to a MS361 class pro saw.

 

[Dibbs]

Understood Dibbs-aware of what saw it is.

LOL, so I see from your Sig!

Stihl 039-Saw Troll/AOD's favorite saw!

I never noticed it when I posted.

 

[BIG JAKE]

LOL, so I see from your Sig!



I never noticed it when I posted.

No prob Dibbs-thanks for looking out for me! Rep'd you for that!

 

[woodshop]

... If I end up doing a lot of milling I'll upgrade to a MS361 class pro saw.

I do quite a bit of milling and that's what I have on my Ripsaw, the 361. Even in max 14" wide hardwood it still has the power to slice through cants. On less width (I mill a lot of 8 inch wide stuff) it has more than enough power.

 

[oxbow]

Ripsaw

I just found this thread, doing a search for Ripsaw.
I bought mine new in 1998 from Better Built Corporation in Wilmington, Mass, for $1600.00. At the time that I bought it, they recommended Stihl 044 powerhead, so that's what I bought. I used mine for years with little or no problem, until last year when I could not get it to track.
Ripsaw was recently bought out by SIR (Southeastern Industrial Resources) in Grant, Alabama. I shipped it to SIR, and they refurbished it for around $350.00. Very pleased with their work and pricing. Also ordered some additional parts, end clamp kits, cover knobs, and end clamp pin. The replacement parts actually appear better made than the original. Hope to get some hours on it this summer.
I like the light weight portability, and the small kerf. I usually mill where the tree falls, sometimes I bring shorter logs out of the woods first. I frequently saw logs into cants, to resaw later on my bandsaw, but I have sawn many hardwood logs into 5/4.
Only limitation is 14" width, which is the widest I make plank benches.

 

[deeker]

A couple of things I have learned about wavy cuts and bandsaws.

I get my blades from Cook's...they roll them flat.....sounds hokey...but it works. When the blades are reset, and sharp....and if they rise or dive. I send them back to cooks.

When pushing a band blade...make certain it is SHARP!!!! Cannot stress this enough. Some of the wave...is from a tooth or two being wider than the others. If the blade is sharp and you have the motor/power to drive it. Push a little faster or slower...and see which works.

Some dry and very hard spruce have given me fits...I have to change blades more often, and slow down my feed rate...knots...knots and more knots...the wood around them......

Kevin

 

[BIG JAKE]

I just found this thread, doing a search for Ripsaw.
I bought mine new in 1998 from Better Built Corporation in Wilmington, Mass, for $1600.00. At the time that I bought it, they recommended Stihl 044 powerhead, so that's what I bought. I used mine for years with little or no problem, until last year when I could not get it to track.
Ripsaw was recently bought out by SIR (Southeastern Industrial Resources) in Grant, Alabama. I shipped it to SIR, and they refurbished it for around $350.00. Very pleased with their work and pricing. Also ordered some additional parts, end clamp kits, cover knobs, and end clamp pin. The replacement parts actually appear better made than the original. Hope to get some hours on it this summer.
I like the light weight portability, and the small kerf. I usually mill where the tree falls, sometimes I bring shorter logs out of the woods first. I frequently saw logs into cants, to resaw later on my bandsaw, but I have sawn many hardwood logs into 5/4.
Only limitation is 14" width, which is the widest I make plank benches.

And where are the pics? Right now my truck is down-both my mills are good to go and I can't do a thing
Good feed back on the rebuild too-I'm hoping to wear my mill out also!

A couple of things I have learned about wavy cuts and bandsaws.

I get my blades from Cook's...they roll them flat.....sounds hokey...but it works. When the blades are reset, and sharp....and if they rise or dive. I send them back to cooks.

When pushing a band blade...make certain it is SHARP!!!! Cannot stress this enough. Some of the wave...is from a tooth or two being wider than the others. If the blade is sharp and you have the motor/power to drive it. Push a little faster or slower...and see which works.

Some dry and very hard spruce have given me fits...I have to change blades more often, and slow down my feed rate...knots...knots and more knots...the wood around them......

Kevin

You're right about feed speed. Generally, letting the rig cut at the speed it wants to yields the best quality for me. Sometimes it cuts so fast it's amazing-but only a certain speed. If I force it it's more stress on hardware and needless-I'm in no hurry. You have a link for Cooks? Anyway thanks for the tips deek

 

[oxbow]

Knots and waves

I have had a problem with the bandsaw rising in knotty wood. Slowing the feed rate helps. If I'm cutting the log into boards (not cants) and get a wave, I remount the beam and get a fresh cut to eliminate the wave. I always cut boards at least 1/4" thicker than finished dimension, then run them through a thickness planer. Sometimes you can turn the log 90° to reduce problems with knots.