Ripsaw question? DIY?

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twoodward15

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Has anyone ever thought of trying to make a ripsaw like sawmill from one of those Milwaukee portabands? I've got one that was given to me, that I'll never use and basically haven't looked at since the day I got it. It's sitting in the shed. I wonder if it would work if it was stretched a bit. Any input from you guys? I'll check it out today and see if it is even possible or worthwhile.
 
the only ones I've seen had tiny wheels, which would make for a pretty shallow max. cut. Also, aside from small diameter, they had very narrow faces on the wheels, which would keep you from being able to fit a milling-style 3/4" or 1" wide (or wider) band. I've only seen 3/8" or 1/2" wide hacksaw style bands for cutting metal pipe. Just my .02 worth of experience (not much).
 
Good point on the wheels and blades. I'd imagine if someone only wanted 2 inch thick max wood it would work if you could stretch it. I don't see a problem using 1/2 blades to mill with though, but the small wheel size would make them wear quickly I would imagine. Anyone else?
 
twoodward15 said:
I don't see a problem using 1/2 blades to mill with though, but the small wheel size would make them wear quickly I would imagine. Anyone else?
Like others, not to throw water on your campfire, but a half inch blade would not mill heavy wet wood well. Also as was mentioned, you need lots more power to mill than the electric motors on those things. You said you want to mate a chainsaw powerhead to it... daunting task unless you have access to a full blown machine shop, and are pretty good at fabricating stuff like that. For example, you need to get the oil from that little hole in the powerhead out to the gearing. In the Ripsaw, they have a cast piece that mates to the saw, that has the hole embedded in it, that dumps the bar oil right onto the spur gear that powers the big wheel the band goes onto. Then there is the guide... that Ripsaw has to rest on something as it's going down that log, it rests on the flat surface of a cant, or a guide beam. But the mill itself has to have a fence or something flat integrated into it that can do that. In fact, something that can be raised or lowered to get different thicknesses of boards you want to mill.

Again... don't want to rain on your parade, but there would be serious complications trying to do what you are proposing. The Ripsaw is just not as simple as that. Blade tension and alignment... lots of things go into the equation. Far be it from me to tell you not to try however. Many great inventions and ideas have come from people who were told they "can't do that".
 
twoodward15 said:
Has anyone ever thought of trying to make a ripsaw like sawmill from one of those Milwaukee portabands? I've got one that was given to me, that I'll never use and basically haven't looked at since the day I got it. It's sitting in the shed. I wonder if it would work if it was stretched a bit. Any input from you guys? I'll check it out today and see if it is even possible or worthwhile.

HAVING RESAWN WET WOOD WITH A STATIONARY BANDSAW, I HAVE TO AGREE THE 1/2 INCH BLADE WILL BE AN ISSUE. I DON'T BELEIVE THERE WILL BE A BLADE COARSE ENOUGH TO DO THE JOB.
I HAVE BEEN TOYING WITH THE IDEA OF CONVERTING AN OLD 14 INCH STATIONARY BANDSAW THAT I HAVE INTO A MILL, ON THE IDEA OF THE HUDSON BANDSAW MILL. HAS ANYONE HERE TRIED ANYTHING LIKE THIS? >>>TOM:rockn:
 
Well, I got to tthinking the same thing you guys posted. I won't do it, but I do have access to a real machine shop, which is a nice perk.
 
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