Rubbing branchs on an apple tree

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d4dave1

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Alberta, Canada
I have voluntarily taken on the task of remediating (helping? hurting? bashing around in the dark?) a 30 + year old apple tree. The "voluntary" bit might give you an indication of my IQ level....lol

To the best of my knowledge it is a Kerr Apple-Crab which, even in my apple starved part of the world, has little commercial value but it has historic and family value so "it must be saved!!"

It has had NO care for its entire life so is a bit of a mess. (understatement of the year award). I know I cannot "fix" everything in a year (or 3) but my intention is to gradually try to get the tree into some shape and fix some of the more pressing issues. ie. water sprouts like crazy

One of the issues is there are two significant branches approx 4 inches in diameter that make up around 50% of the upper canopy of the tree. They are rubbing together badly and have been for some time as there are dry rub spots larger than the palms of my hands on each respective branch. One of them should have been pruned out many years ago but that window closed long ago. I stared at that tree for probably 10 minutes while circling it trying to envision what it might look like without one branch or the other or both as will likely happen eventually.

I think the best would be to keep both branches and let the tree deal with the wounds until one branch gives signs of disease or weakness then prune that one out. Is there any way to seperate the two branches to prevent any further injury/damage? I am aware of the bolt thru method but I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling that this would work on an apple tree. Right now I am leaning towards either hanging a weight from the one limb or a strap and cable to a ground anchor to seperate the two branches but my concern is that whatever I use to wrap around the branch will just chafe and create yet another rub wound.

I have capable grafting skills but I think the constant movement in the large branches would prevent a graft from succeeding.

One thing that did impress me about the old girl is that despite the years of neglect and some serious damages in various places (winter snow removal equipment tore down one 4 inch branch.....ugh) I could not find one sign of disease.

Any advice appreciated.
Regards,
Dave.​
 
A few pics of the situation would clarify the problem. The bolt method is a good standard procedure,I've done similiar procedures in both fruit/ornamentals There only needs to be a few inches between the spars...As long as there is not too much pressure on the crotch,which could cause splitting.
Google ANSI standards for tree bolting.Good info!Do it right ...:smile2:


cheers
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the advice guys.

Option "A" was not an option.

As I mentioned the tree has suffered from years of neglect and once I started removing some of the dead and dying limbs I discovered that I had removed enough pressure and perhaps weight and the two main limbs that had been rubbing all these years had seperated by at least one inch. The rest is up to the tree now.

I could have removed more branches but had reached the magical 20 - 25% limit so called it a year. Next year I will have another go at removing any remaining problems.

I did manage to graft on four different varieties of apple into some of the places I was forced to remove a few limbs. My hope is this will give the tree some better cross pollination, fill in some gaps and provide some new fruit that might create a bit more human interest in the tree. (which hopefully leads to better long term care???)

At any rate I think this tree will be producing beautiful blossoms, fruit, and shade long after my ashes have been scattered in the wind. And that, after all, is the whole point of all this isn't it!!??
Regards,
Dave.​
 
Hard to say without pics. Maybe make it a process over a few years. Thin, reduce one side that you would eventually remove and let the other side fill in holes in canopy. Continue this every year until removal of chosen limb wouldn't have as much of an impact.
 
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