Saw storage opinions?

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Butch(OH)

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Summertime is here and if the storms dont bring trees down in the yard the saws wont see any use until fall. How do you guys store saws? Dad always told me that draining the gas and running them out would let the carburetor dry out and cause problems even though that's the way the manuals tell a person to do it. I used to shut them off, drain the gas tank leaving fuel in the carb and start and them with fresh gas once a month or so but the gas-alcohol mixtures sold around here start going bad in what seems like days. The alky mix isnt the best but all I can find around here. What's the best way to store them to protect the fuel systems?
 
I normally drain the tanks, then run the saw at idle till it quits, then just store it after putting some oil in the cylinder and cranking it a few times to make sure the piston doesnt seize from sitting for too long.
 
Lewis Brander had posted detailed instructions on saw storage a while ago, Drain out the tank, run the saw at idle until it chokes out and dies. Pull spark plug, add some fogging oil and leave gas cap slightly loose to prevent moisture build up.
Any mixed gas that will be sitting around for more than 3 -4 weeks gets dumped into my truck and a new mix gets made when its time to start the saw again.
 
Im now a very firm believer in pulling the spark plug out. If its gonna be in storage for any extended length of time.
 
fubar2 said:
Im now a very firm believer in pulling the spark plug out. If its gonna be in storage for any extended length of time.

I wouldn't suggest that leaving the plug out would be a good idea, as it will let dirt and other crud fall into the cylinder. You would be better to pull the plug and oil the threads or use teflon tape and then reinstall to prevent it from seizing into place. Or find a rubber plug that fits snugly even. The best prevention though is to not store your saw for too long, get it out once in a while and use it and you will not be likely to experience a stuck sparkplug.
 
Pulling plug?

Hello to all. I just drain the tanks, run the saws dry, then pull them over with the choke on to make sure the carbs are dry. I then will fog the crankcases with oil and turn them over a few times. I then loosen up the gas cap to vent the tanks good, so that they will dryout. Loosen the oil cap, this may help the problem with oil leaking all over. As far as pulling the plug, I don't for fear of dirt, etc, getting into the cylinders. I usually make sure the Piston is at TDC, add some oil to the combustion area and put the plug back in and set them on the shelf. The oil will help disolve some of the carbon build up in the top end. especially on some of these old saws I have. Also, I've stored the saws with the piston at BDC, which to me helps to vent the saws insides during say damp weather or high humidity. While the saws are sitting on the shelves (especially during damp weather) I will try to have a fan blowing to circulate the air around the saws to help with any condensation build up. Saw storage today with the newer fuels is a toss up. Just make sure the tanks and carbs are empty and vented. Oil or fog the crankcase and cylinders and you should be OK, Lewis.
 
in addition to above, definitely brush off the aircleaner, or gently wash. If the oil impregnated dust is allowed to "set-up," the oil will polymerize with the oils in the wood dust and form a hard "crust" which will ultimately ruin the air cleaner. (in fact, maybe brush off the air cleaner as a matter of habit after a full day's use.) Also give a soap and hot water bath to the oil pump-clutch side, to keep the oil film from drying on (to keep the surface cooling on all parts of the "hot side" as efficient as possible, to keep thte seal from burning up).

re draining gas ... it worries me that drying out the carb by running it half dry might leave a film of fuel and oil which then causes the rubber in the upper and lower diaphrams to dry out and harden. It seems that whenever I left gas in a saw, maybe even for months on end, they start right up, even on the "old" "stale" gas. But when I ran the carbs "half-dry" (e.g. the wet side of the metering diaphram is still wet, but it no longer has pressure coming from the fuel pump, which is run dry), the saws wouldn't run right, until I replaced the diaphrams, which had dried and become crispy and hard, instead of soft and pliable. I always wondered that maybe the diaphrams wouldn't have dried out, if I had left them wet.
 
My 359, if left w/ gas in the carb, won't start if left for a couple weeks. I end up draining the tank and purging what is in the carb. As a result, I have gotten into the habit of running it dry and I have had no problems as a result. Fresh gas and it starts w/ a few pulls.
 
Gas left in Carbs:

I'm no chemical engineer, but am under the impression that the gas today with it's menthanol and ethanol (alcohol) in it absorbs moisture and that moisture and alcohol can corrode the insides of a carby over a long period of saw storage. I usually run a 32/1 mix with MX2T oil. My old saws aren't worked every day and sit for days before they are started again. I fuel them up, just add a pint of fuel or so to each saw and fire them up and let them run for a few minutes when I get the urge during the summer. Usually they have gas in them, but adding a bit of fresh gas everytime they're fired up for what ever reason. During the winter months they aren't run at all. So I run them completely dry for winter storage and usually do what I described above. The gas I use is only mixed up 2 gallon at a time and when that gas reaches the 60 day old mark I end up dumping it into my truck. I keep my gas in the coolest spot I can find to store it (my garage). It isn't left out in the hot sun and i use a container that's completely air tight (metal can with screw on sealed caps and no vent). I've stored gas all winter and used it the next spring with no problems (I add fuel stabil each time I make up a fresh batch of gas), but it's still stored in a sealed container in the cold. I feel that there should be hardly no evaporation or moisture getting into the gas to mess it up (I've noticed no water or rust in the can), but the saws I run dry for storage. I feel (correct me if I'm wrong) that the diaphragm inside the carbs will be protected, to a certain extent, by the oil after the fuel has evaporated, if there is any fuel left on top of the diaphragms after the carbs have been run dry. So far I've had no problems with the old carbs that I have rebuilt and left sit over the winter months. I fuel up the saws, prime them, set the throttle and choke and they're running after a few quick pulls or after the carb picks up it fuel. The old float type carbs on some of these old saws will usually fire up on the second or third pull, best starting saws I have. Again during the summer the carbs are stored wet, but I usually am starting the saws every so often to show them to someone or for my own amusement, but during the winter they are stored dry. On the other hand, I thought I had drained the fuel from my Poulan 3400 and had it stored in it's carrying case in the back shed, which gets pretty hot during the summer. It was there for over a year and a half. When I pulled her down and went to fuel her up. To my surprise she was full of fuel and she fired right up with no problems and still runs fine today and has never had a carb kit. Got it new in 1982. Some of the newer saws, I have stored wet trying to see what will happen with todays fuel, but start them on a regular basis (every 2 to 3 weeks) during storage and have had no problems with them over the winter and summer. But at least they're started and fresh fuel is added each time they're started. So looks like it's up to one's own preference on how he wants to store their saw. My own thoughts would be to run the saws dry, fog them with oil, make sure they're cleaned up properly and crank them over every once in a while, while in long term storage. If stored for short times or at least started every so often (at least once in 30 days and throughly warmed up) they should be able to be stored wet. To each his own and only time will show up any problems. I have a couple saws where the gas tanks were full of varnish, lines rotted, filters shot and the carbs were full of something like syrup. Cleaned and repaired what was in the tanks, blew out the carbs and they took off and worked fine with the original carb parts. So go figure. Must have been the older 30 year old gas. Who knows. OK, just my 2 cents worth of rambling on. Everyone take care. Lewis.
 
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I'm with most of you - empty fuel tank, start and run until the carb is dry. I've noticed that using the choke seems to really suck the last drop of fuel out. For short term stoage I do not use a fogging oil but if I know the engine will not be operated for an extended time I will oil the cylinder.

I am also an a firm believer in the use of a fuel stabilizer such as Sta Bil - todays fuel has such poor storage qualities.
 
Saws Stored with fuel mix

I must say that logic might dictate storing saws run dry, and most all suggest doing just that. However, I've owned saws since 1968 and have never run one dry to store it. Initially, even though I might not use it every day, there wasn't a time that I thought of 'storing' it. Later, through several career changes, I have certainly had several saws that went a year or more without being started with fuel mix. I have had a couple of homelites that took a few extra pulls to start after a long idle time, but most of the rest of the saws I've owned have been Stihl's and have never had a bit of problem starting them. Currently, I have an 038 that hasn't been started for about a year. (I have a 440 now and I suppose I'm keeping the 038 for sentimental reasons) I went out yesterday after reading this thread just to see and she fired right up... hit with two pulls on choke and then one more to run... just like she always has. I also have an 024 that hadn't been run since November, 2 years ago (026's man, same weight, more umph!) two months ago I took her out on a job and same story... three pulls.

I always throughly clean any saw before putting it up and fill with fresh mix. I've decided to try to make it a point to dump the gas a couple of times a year at least on each saw when they're not used, but obviously I don't always. I have given it some consideration before, but I would never run one dry to store as I have never, ever had a problem with any of my stihl's not starting after long periods of inactivity. (The longest period was when all my saws were put up for almost 3 years... I think I had an 031, 051, 056, 024 & a homelite super 2 at the time. When I returned home, all the Stihls started right up. ...That time I think I had added some Stabil because I knew it would be a while.)
 
Can you please tell me what you mean by fogging the cylinder? With my lawn mower I always place a few drops of oil in the cylinder and perhaps pull the starter cord once but this is about all I would think of doing. What is fogging oil?

Thanks Doug
 
Fogging oil that I use comes in an aerosol can, sold at automotive parts store, says fogging oil on the can. Has small straw that attaches to spray nozzle and allows you to spray it directly into cylinder and carb. Couple of quick bursts on each side and you are all set. Cool idea that I learned right here on AS. :)
 

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