Sawbuck Design Options

[Philbert]

Philbert, I have only two easy suggestions to make:
(1) Increase the length of the bottom to add a couple of inches in height. Leave the cross pieces the same width.

(2) Counter bore holes about 3/8" deep for the bolts, nuts, and washers to bury them (and then use a shorter carriage bolt) so that the saw's chain can't ever hit them.

Good ideas. This is my 'mini-buck' - I have a larger one that puts the wood between my knee and waist height. Recessing the bolts or using 'T' nuts would also be a good idea for general use; could also use brass instead of steel. I know that the bolts are there and only cut on the outside of the legs, or directly in the middle, and the saw usually cuts through the log 3 - 4 inches above the bolts. But I am sure that if I loaned it out . . .

Philbert

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Nice and handy, Philbert!

What's that you're splitting, there. Ash? Er izzat hickory?

 

[turnkey4099]

Aha, a very different approach! I cut mine right NEXT to the uprights, not at the halfway point between.


What is that wood that's loaded on it? Bark sort of like locust, but not really, and the wood has a shine to it? Is that it?

I picked up some of that this year, but don't know what it is. Burns nicely, though.

Yep, it's Black Locust. I cut halfway between because my saw chains object to being near iron

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

I agree, that most of these saw bucks look like furniture! (that’s a complement, not a dis!).

<snip>

I like the ones made by Aandabok and turnkey4099 in the photos above, and would consider making a similar one if I was cutting a lot of firewood, especially from longer, thinner logs. In an earlier thread we discussed welding a cross piece across each set of uprights (making them more like an ‘H’) so that the logs would be held up above the base, and you could saw all the way through without hitting the two-by’s or timbers used for the base.

Philbert

I have modified mine by adding 1x4 on edge between the uprights. That gives me 5 1/2" (3 1/2" plus 1 1/2" angle iron side) between the bottom of the logs and the 2x6. Even that doesn't keep me from chewing them up. Limbs am crooked and not unusual to have them droop almost to the bottom

Black Locust, especially smaller ones, run out to small diameter stuff fairly fast. I usually have half dozen or more lengths of "limbs" on top of each load I haul. I hate picking up small stuff in the field and then having to pick each piece up to unload it at the house.

Harry K

 

[scotclayshooter]

Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol

Ummm... kind of an understatement!

Shari

 

[BluCllrSchlr]

Im kind of hard on the sawbench lol

That's what I like about the design I posted earlier. With the stretchers/rails so low, they aren't as likely to get nicked. But at the same time, I understand someone might just need to slap something together quickly--if it works, it works.

 

[Nosmo]

Here's one that is easy to make.

Materials 4 ea. 8 ft. - 2 x 4 (not 92-5/8" studs).
Materials 4 ea. 4" x 3/8" carriage bolts.
Materials 4 ea. 3/8" flat washers.
Materials 4 ea. 3/8" nuts for the bolts.

Materials 16 ea. 2-1/2" sheetrock screws.

Cut the 2 x 4's all 48" long. Then you can make the X's as high as you want.
I believe mine is bolted at 12" from the top. The lower you make the X the farther the legs will spread out and lower the height. If you don't tighten the carriage bolts too tight this will swing together for storage. You can space the two sets of X's in the middle any distances you would like.

[/IMG]

Nosmo

 

[Philbert]

Nosmo's Photos:

 

[Philbert]

Nice and handy, Philbert!
What's that you're splitting, there. Ash? Er izzat hickory?

It was some mostly crotch ash sections left behind by the firewood scroungers after a local tree company took one down a few blocks away. I needed something to test a chain on, and took the additional challenge of splitting the pieces left. Fiskars did really well up to a point; then it was 2 steel wedges and a sledge.

Philbert

 

[scotclayshooter]

That's what I like about the design I posted earlier. With the stretchers/rails so low, they aren't as likely to get nicked. But at the same time, I understand someone might just need to slap something together quickly--if it works, it works.

Hmm i think i more than "Nicked" them lol

 

[Wood Doctor]

Chainsaws Love to Find Steel

Hmm i think i more than "Nicked" them lol

I have noticed something when it comes to using sawbucks. If there are any steel fasteners or parts floating around, even deeply clinched nails, my chainsaw will find them and dig them out like an anteater or a warthog looking for its prey.



Anybody else noticed this syndrome?

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Yep, it's Black Locust.

Ah, that's it. I get some honey locust once in a while. Not much black around here, but I did get some roadkill. I picked up one section that was cut off from the trunk - about 6" diameter x 30" long. Burned it this winter, because I was curious about it. I'll have to go back and snag the trunk.

I cut halfway between because my saw chains object to being near iron

Harry K

Mine does too. But it really does seem to like the treated 2x4s - it nibbles on them often enough!

 

[Philbert]

If there are any steel fasteners or parts floating around, even deeply clinched nails, my chainsaw will find them . . .

Maybe you should take your chainsaw out to the beach and look for lost coins and stuff!

It you are really concerned about hitting metal, you can use wooden dowels and construction adhesive instead of screws to pin things together, and a larger dowel or nylon screws and nuts for pivots if you are making a folding version.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Maybe you should take your chainsaw out to the beach and look for lost coins and stuff!

It you are really concerned about hitting metal, you can use wooden dowels and construction adhesive instead of screws to pin things together, and a larger dowel or nylon screws and nuts for pivots if you are making a folding version.

Philbert

Actually, Philbert, it was only a warning, but it is worth considering. Hidden nails, bolts, and screws may be worse than if the sawbuck was all steel to begin with. Sometimes you forget they are there. If everything visible is already steel, you never forget (I think).

 

[Philbert]

Actually, Philbert, it was only a warning, but it is worth considering. Hidden nails, bolts, and screws may be worse than if the sawbuck was all steel to begin with. Sometimes you forget they are there.

It's a valid point. Building ones like the one I made with all wood is no big deal - just takes a little more time to make.

Philbert

 

[thenorth]

well, i decided to try and improve my bucking method....when i fell the tree, i cut it into 4' lengths, 'cause that fits the atv trailer. then haul out to the splitter...
where we buck them into 16'' one at a time.. rather dangerous, as she has to hold the wood.
so after reading this forum, i built this today, tailor made for 4' logs, it will hold 9 cubic feet at a time......

take care
john

 

[Philbert]

Big Brother

This is the 'big brother' of the folding sawbuck I posted in post #19.

The oval hole is a hand-hold for carrying it when folded. That hole, and the small round one, are for loops of rope when I hang it in the garage.

Philbert

 

[zipper1081]

I really want to build one but I really dont know if I would use it. But I got the idea after reading this thread of building one that goes on the side of my trailer some how. Any ideas???