Sears D-44 not so Lightweight Coil woes.

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Dadiuskilius

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Hi, Question is on skipping the whole points and condenser to swap in a solid state coil.

Searching and reading in these forums leads me to believe engine is a Tecumseh AH440 (unique metal tag some speak of is absent)

#'s under air cleaner cover: Model# 917.351061 SN 36226

So.. in short can I just buy a Feebay solid state coil thats fits, and avoid pulling flywheel to access those points and condenser?
It's the whole timing of the spinning magnets thing that I don't understand well enough to know if this will work.

Thanks in advance who ever decides to take the time to set me straight on this!
 
Update, Made a puller got the flywheel off and the points were toast! (plastic cam follower worn badly) , condenser would not hold even a milli volt for a millisecond and coil only read 1k ohm. SOoo I set up a followed search on feebay and low and behold 3 days later NOS for Coil 610707 (New coils for this read 9-10k OHMs),breaker points 610708 and condenser 610707 all popped up for just under $25 shipped!

New parts in ... It Lives! I let it idle for almost 2 full minutes enjoying the torquey throaty sound of the old school engine.

It's running but very intermittent throttle response... like its starving for fuel at wide open one time then other times its boggin and stalling at half throttle.

So anyone have experience with this carb? is the gold needle on the right H and the black L ?

Right now its at: black screw 1 1/2 turns and gold only 1/2 turn.

It will idle all day long... the issue seems to be adjustment right?

I've gotten through about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel messing around so far. So next time i get to fuss with it i'm going to set both needles at 1 1/2 turns out from close and try again but I would take any advice as I can't find a factory setting for this carb anywhere on the internet. Everything i've messed with in the past seemed to be a good starting point at 1 1/2 turns out from closed. Im hoping maybe someone before me just really messed up with the one needle being turned in to far.
 
Dadiuskilius said:
Update, Made a puller got the flywheel off and the points were toast! (plastic cam follower worn badly) , condenser would not hold even a milli volt for a millisecond and coil only read 1k ohm. SOoo I set up a followed search on feebay and low and behold 3 days later NOS for Coil 610707 (New coils for this read 9-10k OHMs),breaker points 610708 and condenser 610707 all popped up for just under $25 shipped!

New parts in ... It Lives! I let it idle for almost 2 full minutes enjoying the torquey throaty sound of the old school engine.

It's running but very intermittent throttle response... like its starving for fuel at wide open one time then other times its boggin and stalling at half throttle.

So anyone have experience with this carb? is the gold needle on the right H and the black L ?

Right now its at: black screw 1 1/2 turns and gold only 1/2 turn.

It will idle all day long... the issue seems to be adjustment right?



I've gotten through about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel messing around so far. So next time i get to fuss with it i'm going to set both needles at 1 1/2 turns out from close and try again but I would take any advice as I can't find a factory setting for this carb anywhere on the internet. Everything i've messed with in the past seemed to be a good starting point at 1 1/2 turns out from closed. Im hoping maybe someone before me just really messed up with the one needle being turned in to far.
Click to expand...

The front needle is the L and the rear is the H.

If that is the Lauson PP carb, some of those had a semi fixed H screw. Take it out and look at the needle, if its hollow on the end, then set it at fully closed and work from there, it might only need turned up to 1/8 out. I think if I remember right the L should be set at 3/4 out.

If your H needle is a regular style, I think it needs to be 1 1/4 out and adjust from there.

You did put a new kit in the carb right? New diaphragms, fuel pump element etc..
 
Update:

New Diaphragm in.

Confirmed hollow H screw, So set to 1/8 out and L at 1 turn out.

Started on 2nd pull! Idles and takes full throttle. However I now have a new issue.... I had just begun to celebrate after shutting it down for a few minutes when I noticed fuel is spilling out the carb and pooling up in the carb enclosure. Not leaking out lines or the gasket for the Diaphragm, It's just a steady little drip out the intake?

So I read the entire post from 2broke2ride that you aided him on the one way valves in this Carb. Back in July, Now If I read right his problem lack of enough fuel. I got too much fuel! At this point if I go at it with this saw tomorrow and it starts, runs right and restarts easy after hot I might just add a line shutoff and call it good enough! It would be nice to not have to frankenstein this saw so if you got anymore advice of what to try next shoot.

And Thanks for your sharing of info/Knowledge, I really appreciate it and sure many other do to!

You after anything in particular? when I'm over at the farm I just look and shake my head at all the useful old stuff just rotting away.. I can only work on so little, just not enough time in this life. Thanks for being a hoarder Dad!
 
Dadiuskilius said:
Update:

New Diaphragm in.

Confirmed hollow H screw, So set to 1/8 out and L at 1 turn out.

Started on 2nd pull! Idles and takes full throttle. However I now have a new issue.... I had just begun to celebrate after shutting it down for a few minutes when I noticed fuel is spilling out the carb and pooling up in the carb enclosure. Not leaking out lines or the gasket for the Diaphragm, It's just a steady little drip out the intake?

So I read the entire post from 2broke2ride that you aided him on the one way valves in this Carb. Back in July, Now If I read right his problem lack of enough fuel. I got too much fuel! At this point if I go at it with this saw tomorrow and it starts, runs right and restarts easy after hot I might just add a line shutoff and call it good enough! It would be nice to not have to frankenstein this saw so if you got anymore advice of what to try next shoot.

And Thanks for your sharing of info/Knowledge, I really appreciate it and sure many other do to!

You after anything in particular? when I'm over at the farm I just look and shake my head at all the useful old stuff just rotting away.. I can only work on so little, just not enough time in this life. Thanks for being a hoarder Dad!
Click to expand...


You say you put in a new Diaphragm. Is that all you put in?
 
The "kits" I came across really only showed the diaphragm and the springs,O-ring and needle screws... all of which are in great shape on this one. So in short yes I just replaced the diaphragm.
 
Dadiuskilius said:
The "kits" I came across really only showed the diaphragm and the springs,O-ring and needle screws... all of which are in great shape on this one. So in short yes I just replaced the diaphragm.
Click to expand...

In that case you probably just explained your problem and need a new needle/seat assy to stop the fuel leaking past it.

I'm a bit surprised the old fuel pump element is still working too. Should have got the whole Oregon kit that comes with both of those parts as well.

Google this number for the Oregon kit 631893A
 

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