Seasoned wood vs. not so seasoned wood

[esshup]

Just my observations. I'm using a QuadraJet fireplace insert that uses outside air heat with, with a natural gas forced air furnace as back-up. Wood species is Red and White Oak. Cut 16" long, roughly 4"x 3" up to 6"x 6" in size cross section. The insert has a primary damper and a secondary damper that is supposed to be used to get the splits going, then closed or it will over fire the insert.

0 to 20 degrees outside. 10-20 mph winds. Chimney has just been cleaned. Air intake not obstructed.

Wood was cut/split/stacked on pallets, top was uncovered for the whole summer. The top was covered with a tarp and the tarp goes down the sides about 2'. Stacks are 6' tall by 10' long, two rows wide (32")

Stack #1 was cut/split/stacked the fall of 2013. Trees were dropped June 2013 and cut into 16" long rounds, and those rounds were stacked on top of each other, not covered.

Stack #2 was cut/split/stacked the fall of 2014. Trees were dropped June 2013 and cut into 16" long rounds, and those rounds were stacked on top of each other, not covered.

Burning from stack #1 keeps the house in the high 70's to low 80's with the primary damper open about 80% of the way. Coal/ash build up is minimal, splits burn completely and leave little coals. Ash and coal clean out is needed about every 4-5 days

Burning from stack #2 keeps the house in the low 70's to upper 60's with the primary damper open 100% of the way. Coal build up is approx. 300% greater, so much to the point of not being able to get enough splits in the insert to keep the natural gas furnace from kicking on when set at 67 degrees. Even using the secondary damper to add more air to the coals to get them to burn, the ash and coals have to be removed every other day to leave enough room for the splits.

Moral of the story? Make more room for wood storage. Pay attention to where I grab the splits from when bringing wood to the house........ Completely empty out a double wide row before starting to fill it up again with splits...........

 

[066blaster]

The stuff I have kept inside for 14 months in a 3 sided lean too,from the day I cut it green,, Burns much better than the stuff I had outside for nearly 3 years. It's just way dryer. And it gets no sun. But it's probably 120 degrees in there in summer. We had a really rainy fall here, I brought the outside seasoned wood in my garage early October but still not as dry as I would like. I noticed it developed checking after sitting by the stove for a few days. The stuff from the lean too does not.

 

[Del_]

Very interesting data supporting the idea that seasoned wood is better.

A shame you don't have a row from each year that spent it's time with a cover of recycled sheet metal for comparison.

With our Jotul F600CB I've found that the drier the better. With some as long as three years in a woodshed rounds so large that they just barely can be rolled in through the two front doors burns well on a bed of coals.

For folks that split by hand a wood shed increases the size of the fuel that can easily be used, thus reducing splitting time. For some species like black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) that are very difficult to split, rounds up to the maximum size that will fit into a wood stove can easily be burned without splitting. Also super seasoned large forks and crotches need not be split to season as long as they will fit in the door, thus saving that aggravating work.

Well seasoning allows larger pieces of fuel to be burnt easily with the added bonus of higher wood stove efficiency due to the fact that less water needs to be turned to vapor.

 

[autoimage]

Red oak for me is 2 summers and being left in round doesnt count...stacked so air can get through it uncovered...trying to burn semiseasoned red oak is a pain

 

[svk]

Very interesting data supporting the idea that seasoned wood is better.

A shame you don't have a row from each year that spent it's time with a cover of recycled sheet metal for comparison.

With our Jotul F600CB I've found that the drier the better. With some as long as three years in a woodshed rounds so large that they just barely can be rolled in through the two front doors burns well on a bed of coals.

For folks that split by hand a wood shed increases the size of the fuel that can easily be used, thus reducing splitting time. For some species like black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) that are very difficult to split, rounds up to the maximum size that will fit into a wood stove can easily be burned without splitting. Also super seasoned large forks and crotches need not be split to season as long as they will fit in the door, thus saving that aggravating work.

Well seasoning allows larger pieces of fuel to be burnt easily with the added bonus of higher wood stove efficiency due to the fact that less water needs to be turned to vapor.

View attachment 478194

Great looking shed. If I had more time and room I'd do one just like it.

 

[Circle B MN]

My OWB is twice as efficient with seasoned wood of any species than it is with fresh oak......fact

 

[Wood Doctor]

Seasoning dry is also considered more important for wood stoves than fireplaces. The wood stove can choke off the oxygen and drag more heat out of the wood and radiate it into the room. The fireplace wants an open damper and can usually burn less seasoned wood by using more available oxygen. Fireplace efficiency is thus about one-third that of a good wood stove--perhaps even less.

 

[tla100]

Have you tried mixing the 2 ? Also if you have the room to stack the "stack #2" stuff by the stove for a week or so. I can stack about a months worth in basement. I have found if I have a lot of coaling, to leave the door wide open for an hour or so and they burn down very nicely. No experience with red or white oak. Mainly burn Silver Maple, Ash, Elm, Cottonwood, Boxelder (ehh, never again)....

I only have one damper and usually leave it 2/3-wide open.