Sharpening Stihl RS

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I've worn a bunch of stuff out in my life ... never perfectly to size for the next size up replacement.

Never been able to perfectly wear a SB-Chevy 350 to properly fit +.030 pistons without a visit to the machine shop.

This thread is more about being contrary and argumentative and less about bar/chain up-keep.

I'm glad your getting your $$ out of your equipment , I've see first hand what a thrown chain can do to human flesh. Watched my dad get 300-plus stitches in his face/neck/chest from a 20" full chisel chain tossed off an old 024AV.

Be safe.
 
dumb question, but if it is worn so perfectly even all the way around the rails without belling them out, maybe it is a perfectly good .058 bar in the first place, and .058 chain is the right fit. maybe the old 050 chain was the outlier.


.058 is really odd aroudn here, don't know I have even seen it on a shelf, so just tossing a guess.

k
 
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I have 5 used .058 bars and one brand new never used Cannon .063 bar. TWO of the used .058 bars I have, which I consider in fair condition, actually measured .065-0.70 on average, while the brand new Cannon measured roughly .065-066 on average. HOW CAN THAT BE!?!

No bar shows signs of particular run out, bell curve etc.

Sadly, I lack the equipment to measure rail thickness, but the eyecrometer measures rails between new and used as roughly the same;

To me, that means that once those loops are used up on the "fair condition" bars, I'll be running .063 chains in them.

The bar wear the people in this thread are worried about is possibly .009"!!! I'm confident the acceptable runout in most bars is 10 times greater than that!

This is not scientific evidence, but I consider it proof that running an upsized width driver in a worn bar is perfectly FINE.

For the poster that said something about having to machine out a block to stuff in a .030 upsized piston; Perhaps, like in chainsawing, you need to increase piston speed/rpm and throw mass quantites of fine sawdust and dirt down the cylinder walls, in combination with a thick oil and steel pistons. Perhaps that will cut down on your machine shop costs.

Other than perhaps only your opinion, why is it unsafe to upsize drivers in a worn bar?

Thanks,
Chad.
 
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I like this little kit for hand filing both out in the woods and when the day is done. I round file my full chisel chain since it's easier than mastering a goofy file for now to achieve a square filed cutter, and holds an edge a bit better with some dirty wood. The common filing angles are marked right on the guide so as long as you keep the scribed lines parallel with your bar, you're good to go.

"Complete Filing Kits
Includes file guide, depth gauge, round file, flat file and two file handles in tool pouch."
filingkits.gif

I went to town today with every intention of buying this Stihl kit but my dealer said he had something better and easier for me. It sharpens the teeth razor sharp and does the depth gauges all in one operation. So simple that even the mechanically challenged can quickly service a chain as effectively as any machine. As usual, I took his advise and now own this spiffy little Husqvarna tool.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3254.aspx?nid=56756&pid=83065
 
I went to town today with every intention of buying this Stihl kit but my dealer said he had something better and easier for me. It sharpens the teeth razor sharp and does the depth gauges all in one operation. So simple that even the mechanically challenged can quickly service a chain as effectively as any machine. As usual, I took his advise and now own this spiffy little Husqvarna tool.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3254.aspx?nid=56756&pid=83065



Interesting little unit. Do you know if you can adjust it to set your own desired raker height? Only asking since sometimes it's nice to set your own height as opposed to the "norm" depending on soft vs hardwood or normal vs frozen.

Looks cool though :cool:
 
I went to town today with every intention of buying this Stihl kit but my dealer said he had something better and easier for me. It sharpens the teeth razor sharp and does the depth gauges all in one operation. So simple that even the mechanically challenged can quickly service a chain as effectively as any machine. As usual, I took his advise and now own this spiffy little Husqvarna tool.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3254.aspx?nid=56756&pid=83065

Looks good! You are gonna have to start another thread and tell us how it works for you.

Need pics in action!

Glenn
 
Nuzzy,

No, there's no adjustment for that. I guess the concept is to continually maintain the ideal relationship between cutter and raker. You do have to reverse the files within the unit to sharpen the left side teeth. This takes about two seconds.


Glenn,

I'll post up some pics and a review in a new thread. It should be a cool tool.

My dealer told me he hates to lose my sharpening business since he's been doing all my chains for years but with this tool, I can do just as good a job as they do. Since he only charges me $4, I never figured it was worth my time to bother with learning to do it myself. But then again, it's a 25-mile trip to town. They always do them for me while I wait or go to the feed store but it will still be simpler if I can just do them myself.
 

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