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ngzcaz

ngzcaz

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
451
Location
NE Pa. ( Poconos )
Now that I've opened and closed my 165 door a couple dozen times, the door no longer is tight and hard to close. In fact I saw a wisp of smoke every now and then come out the door. As a temp fix get a small wedge ( really small ) and as you close the door put it in the cam part of the lever, then close the door. Tightens it nicely. Looks like it can be adjusted and IF we get a warmer day till the end of winter I'll mess with it. I think the gasket still had to be molded to the configuration of the door so I don't consider this a flaw per se..

** put a little never seize on the metal to metal area of the door and forget about hard opening or rust...ever..


:greenchainsaw:
 
david78

david78

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
69
Location
WV
I had a piece of the flat rope gasket like you get for woodstove doors so I put it on my 165; the furnace side, so the door closes against the gasket. I used the black silicone. Makes for a tight seal.
 
ngzcaz

ngzcaz

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May 15, 2008
Messages
451
Location
NE Pa. ( Poconos )
I'm a little surprised that you could put the gasket material on and the existing silicone and not have difficulty closing the door. Mine was fairly tight the first 30 or 40 openings.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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Apr 1, 2008
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446
Location
Northeast CT
I melted some of the silicone when I first started using mine. I wedge a wood chip when I close the door to make a tight seal. I plan to do something with it in the Spring, but I'm not sure what yet...
 
trshmn

trshmn

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Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Location
ohio
If you want it permanent and have a welder, take the door off and weld a bead where you have the wood chip, file it a bit and you're good until the silicone wears out.


:cheers:

Forget about that, I had the same problem with silicone last year, I took it off in the summer and put 5/8 rope gasket on, but don't use the glue that comes with it, use the 500 deg. black silicone and keep the creosote from forming on the gasket or the metal, ( scrape off every time you load it) if it's there, I use a hoe to rake the coals and if there is creosote I scrape it off, works alot better than the factory silicone gasket.
 
ngzcaz

ngzcaz

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May 15, 2008
Messages
451
Location
NE Pa. ( Poconos )
To each his own I guess.. If the door closes tightly creosote can't form on the silicone. Scraping the door gasket material is not something I want to do every time I open it. There wasn't any creosote on the silicone gasket part of the door even with a wisp of smoke every now and then. Since its now seated well, I don't expect to have to do it for a long time. Sounds like yours may not have been seated from the git-go. And when you put the rope gasket on didn't you have to adjust the door ? Must have lucked out getting the exact thickness for the door to close properly.

:greenchainsaw:
 
hedgecutter

hedgecutter

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Nov 7, 2008
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22
Location
Kansas
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Location
Northeast CT
I'm going to buy some coal this weekend to try in the stove. I was quoted $245/ton for anthracite stove coal. They also have anthracite nut, and bituminous. I think I'll just start with a 1/4 or 1/2 ton and try shoveling on a few scoops before loading the wood on those frigid nights. Any thoughts?
 
trshmn

trshmn

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Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Location
ohio
it's adjustable, but I let it close completely. Other manufacturers do the same thing.

My friend has a Hardy stove and his damper has two small 1/4" holes in it with screws in, the dealer told him to leave one screw out and if that did'nt keep the fire going then take the other screw out.
 
trshmn

trshmn

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Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Location
ohio
To each his own I guess.. If the door closes tightly creosote can't form on the silicone. Scraping the door gasket material is not something I want to do every time I open it. There wasn't any creosote on the silicone gasket part of the door even with a wisp of smoke every now and then. Since its now seated well, I don't expect to have to do it for a long time. Sounds like yours may not have been seated from the git-go. And when you put the rope gasket on didn't you have to adjust the door ? Must have lucked out getting the exact thickness for the door to close properly.

:greenchainsaw:

What I said is if the creosote is there!!!! what happens is when you open the door, the creosote is almost like bubble gum, it will stretch , and it usually drips over the metal part of the stove. sometimes it will stick to the rope and I will just wipe it off, it does'nt drip out. most guys have a tape measure to measure the channel of the door to see what size gasket you'll need!!! you can try 1/2" but I just thought that the 5/8" was a better fit.
 
trshmn

trshmn

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Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Location
ohio
I actually got it here:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/42984/Dormeyer_2005-M-1_Laminated_Solenoid

grainger wanted me to set up an account, so I went with drillspot. This thing is way more solenoid than I need. It's very strong and the door is very light. It seems to work well so far.

Fletch, Got my solenoid in three days, ordered from drillspot but it came in a Grainger box, I think it was cheaper than ordering from grainger, haven't had a chance to put it on, (deer gun season in Ohio) to busy butchering deer and filling the freezer,:cheers: can't wait to hook it up
 
Windwalker7

Windwalker7

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
514
Location
Pennsylvania
Hey Fletch,


For your blower mod, when you rotated the blower opening, did you have to redrill the holes?


Also, the selenoid in your link, is the one you got the one in the enlarged photo?


Thanks, I want to try this blower mod.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Location
Northeast CT
Hey Fletch,


For your blower mod, when you rotated the blower opening, did you have to redrill the holes?


Also, the selenoid in your link, is the one you got the one in the enlarged photo?


Thanks, I want to try this blower mod.

just had to re-drill two of the holes, the solenoid is the same one. I'd use a chain instead of the turnbuckle, mine keeps loosening up.
 
mistergreentree

mistergreentree

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
72
Location
Northeast Indiana
just had to re-drill two of the holes, the solenoid is the same one. I'd use a chain instead of the turnbuckle, mine keeps loosening up.

My turnbuckle is loosening too...going to try some locktite on it tonight to see if that will help hold it. I like the ability to fine tune the opening with the turnbuckle.
 
John D

John D

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Oct 23, 2008
Messages
1,113
Location
Orange County,NY
My turnbuckle is loosening too...going to try some locktite on it tonight to see if that will help hold it. I like the ability to fine tune the opening with the turnbuckle.

I have a hot glue gun,and use it for things like this. load the threads,and nut with it,and you can adjust it still and reapply as needed. I love hot glue:greenchainsaw:
 
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