Sick Ash Tree

[thomasadams1]

For the last 2 to 3 years my ash tree has produced very little foliage and the trunk has become very cracked. I live in the Houston, Tx area.
Can someone look at the attached photos and help me determine the issue. Thank you very much in advance.

 

[ddhlakebound]

A girdling root below ground level, or a mostly rootbound root system would be my first suspicions.

When you grab the trunk and apply horizontal pressure it, can you see any movement in the soil around the trunk?

Excavation of the root system is the first step in potential correction, but an analysis of cost of care vs. cost of removal and replacement is in order first.

If you spend a few hundred on air spading the root system, and discover that it's a lost cause, you'd have been better just to go for replacement first.

Maybe do a VERY careful excavation of the soil around the root flare, taking care not to damage any roots in the process, and take another pic for us once you're seeing the top of the root system.

And remove all the loose, dead bark and take another pic so we can see the extent of the exposed heartwood, and the amount of callus growth on the edges.

 

[thomasadams1]

Thanks for the reply. I will uncover the roots this weekend. I also noticed that there are small pencil eraser sized holes around the trunk and on certain limbs but it does not look like it is from a wood pecker.

 

[Loraxguy]

ash problem

If I didn't know better it looks like a black ash and if that's the case there seems to be decline of some sort throughout the plains area and maybe in other areas. A decline is a condition that causes the tree to slow die out and they don't what the is causing it. The one photo shows some woodpecker chasing after a bug under the bark. The small pencil holes I would guess is a ash borer exit hole. The tree is under stress from drought, and since some of the photo's appear to be in a area of recent development I would say the soil and planting site is poor. The last reply suggested perhaps remove and replace and I would agree, However check the soils out before you replant and then select the tree that can handle the site.

 

[thomasadams1]

I really like the looks of Ash trees. Would their be a certain type that would work better for my area? I do know that when the subdivision was built
that the soil was built up using a type of clay.

 

[Miles86]

Hate to say it and I hope I am wrong, but this could be Emerald Ash Borer?

Emerald Ash Borer

http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer/emerald-ash-borer-look-alikes

I didn't think it would be in your part of the country, but who knows?

 

[ddhlakebound]

Texas Information | Emerald Ash Borer Information Network

It's unlikely that it's EAB.

Hearing of the heavy clay topsoil brought in after construction, I'm really feeling that inspection below soil level will reveal some of the answers to what's being seen above ground.

I don't doubt that the tree has been attacked by some insects, but I suspect a compromised root system weakened the tree and the insects are secondary.

I've seen alot of the "ash decline" Loraxguy described, and sometimes even in juvenile trees. Whether or not this ash is suffering from the same decline.....???? That's harder to say, and can't be easily confirmed or denied. But certainly possible.

 

[TreEmergencyB]

First picture looks like something was left on the tree, something is choking that tree below ground or above.

 

[ROPECLIMBER]

Looks like root problems, if the clay hole was back filled with a sandy loam it is likely the tree drowned, clay bottom acts like a big un drained clay pot, I would recomend replanting with a much younger tree so it can adapt to the clay as it grows, they have done studies and a 1" tree will usually be twice the size and health of a 4-5" tree at the 7 year mark the reason being is it takes 3 years for every inch calaper for the roots to adapt and establish, and a more larger tree has less adabtability than a younger tree.
also only dig the hole as deep as the root ball is this prevents the settling and in clay the comode bowl effect, also consider planting shallower in clay and 3-5 times the root ball size hole, but back fill with existing soil. and no deeper than the root ball if anything slightly shallower.
Oh and the drought could have also caused the drowned roots if the leaves are scorched they are not feeding so there is no transperational pull so no where the new found water can go, a drought stressed tree needs deep infrequent waterings so it can take it up over a week or so till the leaves open the stomata and start feeding again. In other words in nature how often does it rain enough to fill the hole not every day, or even every other day, so try to pattern your watering to what the tree would get in in its natural enviroment. (normal rain fall average)
Paul