Silvey Depth Grinder

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Gypo Logger

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I might not be the brightest bulb on the tree, but this Silvey grinder is not working for me although it may simply be the operator.
Woodsjunkie is the resident Silvey guy and is also making some really fast chain with his Pro Sharp, so maybe he can help me out.
The way I have been using it, raker by raker they are out left to right by around 5 thou. so I know I'm doing something wrong here.
John
silveyDG.jpg

SilveyDG2.jpg
 
John Nope no use the paw.
Humm I will try to explain better in the AM (humm Friday night and all)
But hear is a pic of mine for you to ponder.
 
John, is the wheel contacting the raker at the lowest point of the wheel?

Actualy the wheel would need to be cetered above the center of the chain, that way the height difference due to the arc of the wheel would be the same from the raker on the close side to the raker on the back side.

But grinders are not my thing, not yet anyway.
 
Eric, I noticed yours has a thing on the bottom of the stand that tensions the chain, I never got one with mine.
Also, DC has the same grinder, so maybe between the two of you, I might get it right.
John
 
You may be onto it there, the raker ahead of the wheel will be pulled into the wheel and ground more, the rake behind will be pulled away and ground less. less tension on the chain will make it worse.
 
timberwolf said:
John, is the wheel contacting the raker at the lowest point of the wheel?

Actualy the wheel would need to be cetered above the center of the chain, that way the height difference due to the arc of the wheel would be the same from the raker on the close side to the raker on the back side.

But grinders are not my thing, not yet anyway.
Brian, apperantly with this this grinder the rakers can be ground as fast as you can turn the crank handle, however it's all lost on me.
I have been grinding one at a time.
I'd read the instructions if I had some.
John
 
Bailey's has them in stock, just not in the catalog. $499 I think. This was just discussed on another forum.
 
Mine appears to be missing some of the original parts, so I will have to contact Silvey for a parts list and operating instructions.
I bought it primarily to reduce rakers without needing to lay a gauge on the cutters in the usual fashion, thus dulling the cutters on racing chain. It supposedly can be used to clean gullets and take the backs off the cutters, however, there is no way of actually clamping the chain while grinding so this precludes any accuracy that may be attained in doing so.
I still don't get how you can merrily crank the handle and grind L and R rakers in quick succession.
Has anyone actually checked raker height with a gauge after using this grinder? I checked it last night and it was out around 5 thou. L to R.
So yes, it does have me perplexed, but I'm sure I'll be chirping away how great it is before too long.
John
 
Gypo Logger said:
Eric, I noticed yours has a thing on the bottom of the stand that tensions the chain, I never got one with mine.
Also, DC has the same grinder, so maybe between the two of you, I might get it right.
John

If you do not have a chain tensioner you will have a hell of a time using it :bang:

Lets just assume that you do and your setting up for the first time.
with grinding head in the up position (motor OFF).
Put your chain on and properly tension it. I always start with the tensioner pulley about 1'-2' below the chain tensioner making sure the chain is running true pull up on the Handel and put he chain in the tensioner. turn the crank making sure nothing is binding.

Now we adjust the cam
lower the grinding head (motor OFF) turn the depth gauge adj. (the big knob on the top) so that it clears the tooth completely.Turn chain to be sure.
Now adj. the cam by turning the knob on the bottom until the grinding head starts lifting when you crank the crank:laugh: adj. this so that it just clears the tooth and hits nothing, (if it hits you need to turn the top knob some more.)

OK now turn the motor on line the wheel up with a raker slowly bring the depth gage knob down until you just make a spark. As you turn the chain (Yes with the crank) the cam will lift the grinding head over the tooth and hit the raker as you go around.
Now I always lift the head and turn the tooth down so that I can check it with a gage. (if you have the chain tight enough you can do this)adj.from their.

Now don't try to make it sound like a Gatling gun but you can go at a half-fast speed and do a good job. Some guys will even go back and forth on every raker until they stop making sparks.
Hope this made some kind of sense :dizzy:

OK now I gotta go grind on a 372 Barrel
 
woodsjunkie said:
If you do not have a chain tensioner you will have a hell of a time using it

Lets just assume that you do and your setting up for the first time.
with grinding head in the up position (motor OFF).
Put your chain on and properly tension it. I always start with the tensioner pulley about 1'-2' below the chain tensioner making sure the chain is running true pull up on the Handel and put he chain in the tensioner. turn the crank making sure nothing is binding.

Now we adjust the cam
lower the grinding head (motor OFF) turn the depth gauge adj. (the big knob on the top) so that it clears the tooth completely.Turn chain to be sure.
Now adj. the cam by turning the knob on the bottom until the grinding head starts lifting when you crank the crank adj. this so that it just clears the tooth and hits nothing, (if it hits you need to turn the top knob some more.)

OK now turn the motor on line the wheel up with a raker slowly bring the depth gage knob down until you just make a spark. As you turn the chain (Yes with the crank) the cam will lift the grinding head over the tooth and hit the raker as you go around.
Now I always lift the head and turn the tooth down so that I can check it with a gage. (if you have the chain tight enough you can do this)adj.from their.

Now don't try to make it sound like a Gatling gun but you can go at a half-fast speed and do a good job. Some guys will even go back and forth on every raker until they stop making sparks.
Hope this made some kind of sense :dizzy:

OK now I gotta go grind on a 372 Barrel
Hi Eric, those are very precise and easy to understand instructions. Thanks.
It's making sense to me now. I will see about getting a chain tensioner. I got the grinder off Dean so maybe they didn't give him one when he picked the grinder up for me.
Eric, have you ever measured to see how accurate the grinder is after finishing a chain? No wonder I got my arse kicked at the last GTG!!:bang:
Can you imagine how dangerous I'd be if I knew what I was doing?
John
OH.jpg
 
I did some checking. I do find some variances
When just spinning the chain I get as much a .004 difference some in line some right to left.
If I grind until no more sparks I get no more than .002 difference.
Silvey advertises accuracy within .003.
I don't know to many guys that can file them that close.
I haven't had any problem cutting stright using the HDG-6 as long as the cutters are all the same.
 
woodsjunkie said:
I did some checking. I do find some variances
When just spinning the chain I get as much a .004 difference some in line some right to left.
If I grind until no more sparks I get no more than .002 difference.
Silvey advertises accuracy within .003.
I don't know to many guys that can file them that close.
I haven't had any problem cutting stright using the HDG-6 as long as the cutters are all the same.

That's good to know Eric. I guess with a used chain where the tie straps have been peened, the tolerance between rakers may be even more.
Finding a correlation between cutter length and raker height may be advantageous, especially when making race chain.
Meaning if we knew where the rakers would be when we have the cutter back where we want it, maybe more accuracy could be maintained that way ,by doing the rakers first when the chain is unused.
John
 
I might not be the brightest bulb on the tree, but this Silvey grinder is not working for me although it may simply be the operator.
Woodsjunkie is the resident Silvey guy and is also making some really fast chain with his Pro Sharp, so maybe he can help me out.
The way I have been using it, raker by raker they are out left to right by around 5 thou. so I know I'm doing something wrong here.
John
silveyDG.jpg

SilveyDG2.jpg

I would love to see an up close video of how these things actually work. I've never taken a close look at one.

I have seen the silvey video where they are just cranking away, but it doesn't show detail of how it does it's thing.

I can't justify one, just curious. Also it looks like it needs a chain tensioner and alot of my chains would probably be too long to fit. And I already have a 510 which can do depth gauges with some fiddling, although not with the sloped leading edge. And the 510 does gullets left by my Prosharp real slick.
 
Last edited:
....it looks like it needs a chain tensioner and alot of my chains would probably be too long to fit.


Eric, I noticed yours has a thing on the bottom of the stand that tensions the chain, I never got one with mine.
Also, DC has the same grinder, so maybe between the two of you, I might get it right.
John


Gypo's grinder didn't come with the chain tensioner.

The spring loaded adjuster slides up or down on the pipe stand for easy chain length adjustment.
 
gypo logger

Does anybody know why gypo was banned? He was the best picture source for this site. I alway's enjoyed his pics, and will be dissappointed if he is banned for good.:mad: :angry2: :monkey: :confused: :)
 

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