Skip or Chisel Tooth???

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dsm382

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okay, i know i'm new here. but got a easy question..

been reading on here about skip tooth chains, so i figure i best try one.
called local dealer to day and said they only carry Chisel tooth chains.

got one, they said the back side of tooth is square which causes a bigger chip to come out.

okay well i have that little peice of Oak tha't i'm trying to cut so i shall try it.
like to stick with stihil for that oilamatic (invented by Gallagher??)

Tell me something please, and thank you.

actuly i think it might be a hard maple, chips/dust are kind of yellow. unless it's a white oak?

DSC04095small.jpg
 
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The "skip" term only refers to the spacing of the teeth and has nothing to do with the type of teeth ( chipper, semi-chisel, full chisel, etc....). A standard chain has two drive links between a left tooth and a right tooth. A full skip chain has three drive links between the teeth. A semi-skip chain is a compromise between the skip and the standard --- alternating between two drive links between teeth and three drive links between teeth. Skip chains are used when the bar length gets somewhat long for the power available from the engine. The smaller number of teeth in the cut permit the saw to maintain higher RPM in the cut and hence avoid bogging down. The chisel chain is not faster-cutting because of the size of the chip it removes. It is faster cutting because it digs into and cuts the wood more aggressively (but only if it is SHARP) than the chipper or semi-chisel tooth. The full-chisel tooth normally cuts a chip of thickness of 0.025", whereas the semi-chisel and chipper normally cut 0.030".
 
Looks like a little chain 101 is needed.

Tooth cutter profiles come in full chisel, semi-chisel and chipper (I think only Carlton make chipper chain)

Chisel has a square edge, semi is rounded and chipper is fully round. This isn't to be confused with square ground chain, which uses a square file or wheel rather than a round file or wheel for sharpening.
The rounded profiles cut a bit slower, but work (keep an edge) longer in dirty environments, or where there is a lot of stuff like silica in the timber and the timber is bloody dense and hard. (a lot of Australian hardwood)
I'll dig up some cutter profile pics.

Skip chain is where one or more cutter teeth are missing per sequence of drive links. It has nothing to do with cutter profile. Skip chain works well on longer bars to maintain chain speed. (less cutters per foot of chain)

Go here for Oregons tech archive http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/tech_guides.htm
Carltons tech archive is is here http://www.sawchain.com/distributor/publications.asp

[edit] galde beat me too it. That's what happens when cooking breakfast and answering the phone mid reply.
 
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That is a large round of wood to be cutting with a 310, if you are running the 20" now, the biggest bar I would run is a full skip 25". Keep the cutters sharp and :chainsaw:

Anyone near this guy to help with a bigger saw?
 
Makes me wonder if your dealer is ignorant, or doesn't GAF. Either way, find another dealer.
kind of what i was thinking.

thanks to you other two guys.
i personally was pretty confident i knew what a skip chain was (been reading on this site all weekend, THANKS, good site) and was hoping the dealer carried it. he is close real close.
I was wanting to stay with a stihil chain for the oiling what they call it Oil-a-matic?

but looks like i shall order a skip from Bailys and deal with it. :dunno:

sooooo.

It looks like (from reading here and other threads on this site) i could go up to the 24" bar that the dealer said the MS310 would pull. and if i go with a full or semi-skip, and ONLY use occasionally when i have a big log like this i should be okay for a couple years till i get a BIG saw?


so should i buy the Sthil bar or just get bar/chain from bailys?
 
I've been using the X series chain with the Oregon cutters on the Windsor chassis that Bailey's has, and like it. For the price, you can't go wrong. ...I don't know anything about Stihl saws or bars, but a 24" bar on the MS 310 seems like a bit too much bar to me, even with full skip. You should ask some of these guys what they think.
 
Stihl MS440/460, 044/046 Dual port cover part # 1128 140 0801
Stihl MS660/066 DP cover part # 1122 140 0800
.......¯\(o_O)/¯.......
Sorry for off topic, but everybody needs to give a little rep for that and you need to add felling dawg part numbers.

Later,
 
yeah i know.....just looked over Baileys site and WOW!!
talk about choices!!

okay yep going to wait for a few more to chime in.

i am keeping the chisel chain i got today because i HAVE to get his wood off this trailer, my wood supplier is waiting for the wife to get back there on monday to load her up again......he can only hide it for so long before someone else wants it. :D :D!!

so guys help me out, what do i need?

can i get away with a 24" bar for just a few cuts, here and there?

i will also get some full skips for the 20" bar also......

guess i would need to get a roll and start making my own????? :dunno:
 
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I might have a lead on a big old saw for sale. Let me know if your interested I can look into it more and see if its still for sale.
 
I never have much luck when I go to that dealer dsm382.
huh....wonder how ya knew who i was speaking of...:D... and they got worse when they moved both dealers into one........
i have purchased both saws from them and the 30yr old trimmer, back at ther orgianl store.....
like i said they are close...
i spent 10mins outside looking at the new tractors today and NO one thought to take look with me. guess you have to ask for help there?

I might have a lead on a big old saw for sale. Let me know if your interested I can look into it more and see if its still for sale.
not sure cash is tight right now, but if the price/deal is good, it's a thought.
i have not had a lot of luck with used equip, kind of like new stuff...but ya never know.

now back to reading about chaps and PPE and chains.:)
 
Ill find out tomorrow if its still for sale anyways and let you know. It might be already sold. I should of bought it when I first heard about it but Ive been spending to much money on gun stuff.:D
 
I ran a 25" bar on my 310 when I absolutely needed it. Didn't know about skip chain at the time, so it was with full comp full chisel. It will pull it fairly well, but you won't want to lean on it very hard. Just ease into the wood and keep the revs up. And don't do it very often. I had mine buried in oak a couple of times. Went slow and let the saw cool off every few cuts. That's when I decided I needed a bigger saw(s!). You should actually do pretty good if you get the skip chain. And, as Glade said, keep your chain SHARP. Good recommendation on the raker height as well. I wouldn't worry about getting skip for your 20" - it should pull full comp just fine. And if you're feeling amitious, check into muffler mods and carb tuning. But that's not for everybody.
 
thanks, and thanks and thanks.

i have a bench grinder i use to sharpen.
i have yet to file the rakers...been meaning to get one of those tools.

i will do a search and some reading on here to be sure i am sharpeining correctly.......espeicaly the rakers.........

might order one of those tools from bailys when i order the bar, unless it is a recomaned to purchase a sthil bar?

need to do more reading and wait for some folks to explain the diff in chain types........
it is overwhelming to me for sure.

guess i just need someone to say ..........
BUY this XXXX brand and this XXXX size etc...:D......

i am betting now that i have been here reading these posts/threads on this site, i have been burning too much fuel and having to re-sharpen chains more then neeeded and abusing my little saw...............

i do need some education.....

great site
 

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