Skip tooth, 24" bar, MS361, Good Plan?

[skidud]

Actually my question was whether I should get a 24" bar or attempt it with the 20" bar . The title was rather misleading as I explained in an earlier post. I to, have better things to do than stand around all day knocking trees down but at the cost of getting a bigger saw (not going to happen) and my disdain for asking to borrow other's equipment (not going to happen either) I'm going to have to stick it out with what I've got. From the posts, I see most are skipping the question of whether or not to attempt it with a 20" bar and going right to whether or not the 361 can handle the bigger bar or even a 45" tree for that matter. I think I'll continue to search for a 24-25" bar/chain combo and if I don't find one in time or for a reasonable price, then I'll attempt to down the smallest of them and see how it goes. I think the one is around 36" so I'm sure I can take him out without trouble. I'll just go from there. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Arrowhead]

I cut many 40"+ Oak trees with my ms310 (59cc). It had a 20" bar and full comp. It's all I had at the time, and it worked just fine. Just let the saw cut at its own pace.... don't lean on it. Sure, you can use the 20" bar to drop those trees. Yes, a 24" would be easier doing so. The trees ain't going to stay over 40" for long anyways. Baileys has a 24" Carlton for $35 I believe.

 

[Big_Al]

My 362 that I bought new last month came with a 25" bar and full comp chain. Dealer said it would run it fine as long as I didn't horse it too much. I traded for a 20" bar though since I had several leftovers from the 290.

 

[dingeryote]

A 24" bar running skip will have about as many cutters putting drag on the saw as a full comp 16" bar, and not bogging the thing down comes down to not leaning on it in the cut.

It WILL work without taxing things, but that's up to the saw Jockey.

If the guy is saw savvy and is framilliar with nibbling a big stem and cautious about not having adequate cut speed on the back cut when it MIGHT be needed, it wouldn't be a BAD idea. It just isn't the best option, and bieng a "Good idea" is up to him, his level of knowledge, and how comfortable he is pulling it off safely.



Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[nmurph]

ok, OP, to answer your question i would drop the coin (~$50) and buy a 24" combo from baileys. you might learn to like a longer bar if you are taller it makes limbing without bending possible. and in spite of what half-horse says, it will pull it without complaint, especially if you use skip.

 

[rwoods]

Actually my question was whether I should get a 24" bar or attempt it with the 20" bar . The title was rather misleading as I explained in an earlier post. I to, have better things to do than stand around all day knocking trees down but at the cost of getting a bigger saw (not going to happen) and my disdain for asking to borrow other's equipment (not going to happen either) I'm going to have to stick it out with what I've got. From the posts, I see most are skipping the question of whether or not to attempt it with a 20" bar and going right to whether or not the 361 can handle the bigger bar or even a 45" tree for that matter. I think I'll continue to search for a 24-25" bar/chain combo and if I don't find one in time or for a reasonable price, then I'll attempt to down the smallest of them and see how it goes. I think the one is around 36" so I'm sure I can take him out without trouble. I'll just go from there. Thanks for your help guys.

I'm just a weekend firewood cutter so take my opinion for what it is worth. IMO you are better off (and safer) using the longer bar. If you can't find one that fits your budget or your schedule, you may want to check on a quality rental. The last thing you want is to leave a partially cut tree while you go look for the right equipment. If you're experienced with whittling a tree down to fit your bar as you can see others do on some of the videos posted (I'm not) then have at it with your short bar. However, if you are experienced at such whittling, I doubt you would be asking the question - so I say go with a longer bar or get someone else to fell the trees. Ron

 

[FATGUY]

man, I just can't say it enough.... the oiler is more of a problem than the engine....

 

[Zombiechopper]

man, I just can't say it enough.... the oiler is more of a problem than the engine....

I agree. I run 16" on mine and wish it oiled more..

 

[FATGUY]

I agree. I run 16" on mine and wish it oiled more..

do the upgrade, it spews oil off a 28" bar now.... I didn't replace the oiler, just the piston and control bolt.... $30 some odd bucks (ok, probably $50 back home, but well worth it IMHO)

 

[skidud]

Got the bar

I finally got the bar and chain in after having it lost in the mail. Kevin, (4000fixed) made me a heck of a deal on a used 25" bar and full skip chain. Got to give Kevin some reps for being a great guy to deal with and being the only one who followed up on an offer to my want ad in the trading post.

Anyways, I took out the new combo on Sunday and as far as I'm concerned, the 25" bar/full skip was not at all too much for the MS361. The thing did great on those ash trees. Granted, I wasn't overly bearing down on the thing but I certainly wasn't limp wristing it either. I would have no reservation about keeping a 25" bar on it *EXCEPT* for the oiler. I could definitely see that it wasn't throwing off oil like I wanted it to. The other thing is the added weight. When you put the saw down, it rests on the bar now and it feels a little unbalanced when you're using it. Nothing too bad but the 20" handles better. As far as power goes, I would say that ANYONE needing to OCCASIONALLY run a 25" bar, could do so with an MS361. If you want to race through a cut or are wanting a 25" bar full time, then I'd say it's a matter of opinion on whether it's fast enough for you. For me, it fit the bill perfectly. Now I just need to get that oiler upgrade and I'll be all set. Thanks again guys for all your help.

 

[nmurph]

good for you!!!

 

[Wood Doctor]

60cc is best with a 20, 24 will work but you cant horse it!

+1. In August I made 22 buck cuts with my 361 through a big old ash log that was 32 feet long to the Y. I used a 24" bar (actually rated at 25") and she handled it beautifully without a stall. Ordinary Stihl chain (84 drive links) did it all. Only the last four cuts near the base of the trunk needed a double side cut to finish them off.

You will be happy with the longer bar and chain for occasional big stuff. This saw can pull it.:greenchainsaw:

 

[breymeyerfam]

a 361 WILL pull a 32" with skip chain in red oak. been there tried it. for that matter, so will an 026. been there tried that too.... why you may ask? so i could say i had a 32" bar on my 026. HI Nik!

 

[wyk]

A little late to the thread, but I thought I should also add a word. I'm with the other guys; the 361 should pull an 18" bar through anything like it was butter. I got my 361 off of a firecrew worker that had it along side 460's for clearing roads etc. When he gave it to me it wore a STIHL 28" bar(3003 000 9638), which STIHL shows as compatible with the MS361 in their parts guide, btw http://www.stihlcatalog.com/guide/STIHL2010Catalog/41.asp#. This thing easily pulls a 28" skip tooth square grind through any wood I have encountered. I recently bucked and fell a 28" Birch with it that was sapping wet without so much as a complaint. Does it oil it well, probably not. But, can you do it for a day through a few trees? Easily. If you do it day in day out it may hurt the bar, and it may hurt the chain, but it isn't gonna bother that 361. As the OP found, a 24" chain isn't gonna be a problem.

Now, uh, I don't spose there's anyone in the Willamina, OR area that wants to trade a 28" for their 20-24?

WYK

My ms361 has all it can do to adequately pull an 18” bar. I would not highly recommend a 24” bar on that saw. If all you need to do is drop 7 trees, see if you can find someone in the area that has a bigger saw you can borrow or ask around at your local saw shop for someone interested in dropping a couple of trees for short money. Once on the ground, slice and dice with what you have.

 

[056kid]

It will be fine, run skip chain and keep it very sharp.

 

[wyk]

Lookin' good! Here's my zombie saw with the 28" bar:

+1. In August I made 22 buck cuts with my 361 through a big old ash log that was 32 feet long to the Y. I used a 24" bar (actually rated at 25") and she handled it beautifully without a stall. Ordinary Stihl chain (84 drive links) did it all. Only the last four cuts near the base of the trunk needed a double side cut to finish them off.

You will be happy with the longer bar and chain for occasional big stuff. This saw can pull it.:greenchainsaw:

 

[twocylinder]

not to step on any toes, but a chainsaw chain doesnt need to drip oil like a volkswagon to be oiling properly and efficiently.(nothing against volkswagon, theres a 1600 in my garage) if chain speed is in question, try a semi chisel chain, weve used that trick in southern michigan on small saws with big bars forever, and it works ok.