Solo 611 Twin lives again

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Very nice looking saw and good repair job. This saw is definately worth it.
My twin is pretty much in good shape but have a crippled intake booth that creates a rather big air leak, so it won't run like it should.

Some critics about german engineering, eh...... It took only von Braun to take you folks to the moon.....:innocent:
 
Very nice looking saw and good repair job. This saw is definately worth it.
My twin is pretty much in good shape but have a crippled intake booth that creates a rather big air leak, so it won't run like it should.

Some critics about german engineering, eh...... It took only von Braun to take you folks to the moon.....:innocent:
maybe so,, but that recoil looks like a disaster....also, I own a 96 tdi..and when I went to gtg's..more than one person said,,another fine piece of german disaster enguuuuneering.....
 
maybe so,, but that recoil looks like a disaster....also, I own a 96 tdi..and when I went to gtg's..more than one person said,,another fine piece of german disaster enguuuuneering.....

you are right of course....just pulling your leg. :yes: I know that starter design is a paint in the butt. I think they copied it from AS motor, same poor design.
 
After the GTG last weekend I was reminded the automatic oiler wasn't working so I decided to try and get it resolved once and for all. The automatic pump is mounted on the bottom of the crank case, a lobe on the crankshaft works a plunger with a ball and spring check valve / pressure relief to adjust the flow. After lots and lots of head scratching and finally taking it all apart I noticed the "sleeve" that screws into the body of the automatic pump must be in the right position for the cross drilled passages to line up with the inlet and outlet lines, it all seemed very familiar after seeing it again. To avoid screwing the sleeve in too far (again) I measured it up and found a suitable plastic bit in a collection of odds and ends and made a spacer.

The Tygon line is from the oil tank to the inlet of the pump. The black line is the inlet to the manual pump, the "T" fitting is the outlet from the manual pump and the line to the bar pad. The white plastic spacer is the part I added to correctly position the sleeve inside. It oils to excess now even with the long bar.

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This one is staying very high on my list of all time favorites.

Mark
 
After the GTG last weekend I was reminded the automatic oiler wasn't working so I decided to try and get it resolved once and for all. The automatic pump is mounted on the bottom of the crank case, a lobe on the crankshaft works a plunger with a ball and spring check valve / pressure relief to adjust the flow. After lots and lots of head scratching and finally taking it all apart I noticed the "sleeve" that screws into the body of the automatic pump must be in the right position for the cross drilled passages to line up with the inlet and outlet lines, it all seemed very familiar after seeing it again. To avoid screwing the sleeve in too far (again) I measured it up and found a suitable plastic bit in a collection of odds and ends and made a spacer.

The Tygon line is from the oil tank to the inlet of the pump. The black line is the inlet to the manual pump, the "T" fitting is the outlet from the manual pump and the line to the bar pad. The white plastic spacer is the part I added to correctly position the sleeve inside. It oils to excess now even with the long bar.

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This one is staying very high on my list of all time favorites.

Mark
That thing cuts like a mad devil too!
 

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