Something is off with my MS 660 when I am cutting stumps.

[SAWMIKAZE]

From the pictures it appears that you don't have the dual port muffler. I would recommend getting the dual port front cover for you muffler. This allows the saw to "breath" better. It also lets the saw run a little cooler and helps to increase power and rpms. If you do decide to put the dual port cover on be sure to have the carb retuned before you use the saw again. The saw will need to be tuned a bit richer. If you don't retune the saw it will likely run lean and destroy your piston and cylinder. If you don't feel comfortable retuning your saw I'm sure your local dealer will be glad to do this for you especially if you buy the dual port cover from them.

I see that advice here and there..

It just depends on where your saw is tuned to begin with , if it was pig rich adding the muffler cover may put it right where it needs to be , and if its lean then vice versa.

i always check with a tach to be safe.

Dont overlook an air filter upgrade either.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

An HD2 air filter and dual port muffler combo is an awesome upgrade.
Imagine trying to run a mile and only being able to breath through a straw. Now imagine doing it breathing normal. Big difference! Not that I can run a mile anyway. I'm sort of a chubby...lol

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

An HD2 air filter and dual port muffler combo is an awesome upgrade.
Imagine trying to run a mile and only being able to breath through a straw. Now imagine doing it breathing normal. Big difference! Not that I can run a mile anyway. I'm sort of a chubby...lol

I know what you mean , I added the HD2 to a few of my saws and the power gain blew my mind !

 

[Trx250r180]

For stumping ,.404 chain helps a lot ,you need a bar with .063 rails and a .404 sprocket and bar tip ,the great thing about .404 i like is the links are further apart and that helps oil sling all over better keeping the bar cooler ,a full skip also for chip evacuation ,that full comp is plugging up with chips making the bar loaded down more ,sharpening the chain at 10 degrees will stay sharp longer over traditional 30 degrees ,do not start from the outer edge of the tree if possible also ,any dirt will be drug into the cut further and kill the chain faster ,i like to bore in at least 6-10 inches from the edge on a big tree ,that part left will hold the stump while cutting also ,wedges help prop the stump up off the bar also ,on a 36 inch or larger inch stump you may have to resharpen a few times ,i try to save my old chains for this work ,then toss em when done ,cutting with a dull chain will make the bar super hot ,if you are running .050 chain ,there is no way it is going to oil that bar and keep it cool enough for stumping with that 32 inch bar ,the grains down in the stump are much much tighter than 2 feet up the trunk so that is another heat maker ,and listen to Sawmikazee on the dual port muffler cover ,that will keep the saw much cooler letting the bottled up exhaust heat out ,i would also run 32 to 1 oil mix also instead of the 50 to 1 the mfg recommends .

Long post

 

[HuskStihl]

Long post

Go ride u'r moped and stop wasting internet. Dumbass.

 

[dontbthatguy]

Got the saw apart. You can find the album below with pictures.

http://imgur.com/a/BoZ72

First thing I noticed was the clutch cover had some bar oil on it. You can see in pic 1 the gunk on my finger is from the inside of the clutch cover, and in pic 2 that there is actually some oil in the cover. I had just cleaned the inside of the clutch cover and hadn't put much time on the saw since then.

I took the muffler off and don't think there is anything going on. The screen is clean.

The exhaust port looks "gummy" there isn't too much residue but it is almost sticky to the touch.

I cranked the piston and it looks pretty good. It was clean and I didn't notice any gouging or anything.

I am going to keep the saw apart for a little while and hope to get some responses.

Should I clean that gunk out of the exhaust port and clean the gasket?

Also is bar oil supposed to end up in the clutch cover? as I said before I have always been skeptical with how the saw oiled. It seem intermittent and has dumped out at least a quarter tank before after sitting for a while .

The saw has a HD2 air filter on it that came stock. It was dirty which surprised me because I just blew it out after its last use.

If anyone has a link to a better air filter or a link handy for the duel port muffler I will take that.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Those big Stihl saws don't like a plugged or dirty air filter at all. They'll rev up like they should, but they will bog under load.
I strongly believe your oiler is the problem with the hot chain. every bit of the oil that is leaking from your saw was supposed to go to the chain.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Well its good to get down and dirty with your tool.
Familiarity is a good thing and should be experience by all, Christians included.

Trouble shooting starts with your basics, pertaining to what one may think would be plausable to their problem.

Yeah yeah..phuck all that. Many guys have offered more which is all useful knowledge if you don't need today you may next week so start stuffing.

Like HuskStihl said "see if oil is coming off the tip"
Hold it in one spot a few inches over the 'gravel' and give it some triger and watch. Making sure not to be fooled from run off from just filling up. #2 check bar hole that meets oiler journal as mentioned. Of course in a normal trouble shooting scenario its generally dry unlike yours. Obviously turn it all open in this case then check bar is clear then I start it with out bar to see if it flows. Then dump oil out, flush with gas and run half gas/oil if need be before I go deeper.

Now it's apart and clean, you should be able to see if the excess oil is coming from a crack in the case,
if nothing else was found to be the problem.
As others said its probably no big deal may be nothing.
Nuff about oil. Next it's tool talk then its living room cutting.

 

[Westboastfaller]

"Saw boggs down" screen was clean but filter was dirty
Plug was also sticky. OK now we have something here.
A bill for $87.50
Who said don't be that guy?.. Your not going to be that guy. Dirty filters and clogged screens cause saws to run rich, slow down, carbon up and lose power. Are you sure that filter is washed clean.. if needed?

OK let's get cutting ...wait a minute what did the men say about the sprocket and full house chain on a long azz bar? If you want to use that chain don't add to it. Cut it down if its any good.Start fresh for now. It may have a tooth or raker offset (ready to break) causing chomping in the cut among other issues. It's the wrong chain and sprocket for the application regardless ^^^^

OK now listen to this because it took many years out of my 26+ pro years to get this piece of the puzzle down and its key in saw cuts and equipment.

As follows:

You start with $hit you end with $hit
(Paten Pending)

Don't be a slow learner, learn from the slow learners
(Also Pending)

 

[Deets066]

Nuff said

 

[Westboastfaller]

Nuff said

But Deets I never got to do any living room cutting..lol

 

[Deets066]

But Deets I never got to do any living room cutting..lol

Best place to see if it's oiling right, shows up real good on the white carpet.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Aaaahhhaaahaaaa^^^ ya got me ..lol
There is no argument here my cutter friend

 

[Trx250r180]

Cant cut carpet with a saw, can cut hardwood floors though

 

[Deets066]

Sometimes I tune her a little rich and fire it up in the livin room, Glade ain't got $hit on 32:1

 

[angelo c]

Question from the gallery....
What's the saw cut like when its vertical ? Does it cut straight and true when you buck rounds with the bar buried ?
I'm starting with the chain and bar before I open up the saw for a looksee.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Cant cut carpet with a saw, can cut hardwood floors though

You can cut hard wood floors or you can cut in hard wood floors? If you can cut in hard wood floors free hand cutting & filing then you should be able to give the OP a lot more theory on his Dilema Trx ..hell! I'll sit back for the lesson...lol . We liked your long post..it was all good man.

I personally think its a combo of issues

-Running rich
- 8 tooth
- full house chain
- I bet that chain is breaking after that good stretch or a tooth or raker offset generating bind and heat

As HuskStihl and you said for proper procedure:
Wedge up stump.
-not wedging weight of of display

now of course may have spread a rail from the heat?
And it goes on............
......
....

 

[drf255]

I can't believe I violated my own rule. After reading WBF's suggestions it came to mind.

Step 1-CHANGE THE PLUG

I've been burned badly by this before. 11HP Honda 4 stroke. After 2 carbs, a new fuel tank, a new coil, new filters, valve adjustment, and countless more cussing hours. Would start, get hot, and die under load. Plug would spark fine out of cylinder. Finally tried the $2 plug after investing $200 in the motor and many hours.

 

[dontbthatguy]

Got the saw all back together minus a the bar. I switched back to the 7 tooth sprocket and changed out the spark plug for the hell of it.

I ran the saw to make sure it was oiling which it was. After a rev or two oil would ooze from the port.

For ***** and giggles I took off the clutch plate and notice after only 10-20 seconds of running there was oil and gunk building up. I blew out behind the clutch and there was definitely a little oil back there

Also I cleaned off my saw and noticed oil leaking from the oil adjustment screw.

I take it neither of those things are supposed to happen.

I plan on upgrading to the high output oiler. Do you think that will fix oil getting into the clutch cover?

Also maybe a stupid question, but do I have to upgrade my entire muffler? Or can I just get the duel port cover? And if I do a will need to retune it correct?

 

[Trx250r180]

I would take the oiler out and clean off the surfaces on the rubber hose and the oiler and reassemble ,see if quits leaking ,i had a 460 do what you are saying ,that's all it took ,some hard crud was built up making the mating surface seep oil ,there is also a vent hole that can leak above and between the bar nuts behind the metal chain guide plate ,sometimes a pick tool or compressed air will free up the vent spring ,or just knock the vent out and tap a new one in ,when you reassemble the clutch drum ,make sure the wire thing on the plastic gear snaps into the little notch on the clutch drum also .

Long post again