Splitting tool handle shock

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AmateurSawer

AmateurSawer

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I still split most all of my wood by hand.8lb maul with a hickory handle.I like traditional things even though I do use a chainsaw instead of a crosscut.
With some arthritis or whatever starting in my shoulders,I'm wondering about the composite handled maul or axes such as Fiskars or Husqvarna.For those who use them,do you notice any difference in the shock transferred to you?.My only experience with these was trying someone's Fiskars Super Splitting axe on some downed sugar maple limbs he had cut up.Maybe it was me but I wasn't impressed with the splitting ability.I read a lot from people who really like them and the Isocore so they must have had a better try out.Our wood is mostly oak with a little hickory and black locust.
 
s sidewall

s sidewall

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When I was able to split wood with my maul, I started out with a wood handle then later on I switched to a composite handle. I've always worn just regular leather work gloves for wood work. For saw work I wear padded protective gloves.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
 
Jere39

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I still split 12-16 cord by hand. I have a re-handled hardware store maul I use to split the rounds I no longer want to lift. This replacement handle is a synthetic of some sort. I do not find much transfer of vibration. That handle has a HS-2 Handle Saver on it to protect against over-strikes.
IMG_7389.jpg
Then switch to the Fiskars splitting ax on a block to complete the splitting. Again, no noticeable vibration.

I usually wear light Atlas Nitrile glove, mostly to avoid slipping and splinters. In the sub-20° weather, I wear the heavier Grey gloves.

IMG_9248.JPG

Leather gloves wear out way to fast on my hands.P1040749.JPG

I always wear out the left glove, and I have taken two pair and turned one of the right hand gloves inside-out to remake a useable pair:

restored pair.JPG

But that only bought me a couple more hours. The Nitrile palm gloves last a month or more.

Edit:
Final caveat: 90% of what I split is nice straight grained Red Oak. Might be the most important part of my success. Splits nice, usually pops on a single swing. I have gotten pretty good at gauging just how much oomph I need to apply to each swing so that I get a nice split, without flinging the pieces far from the block.

IMG_9426.JPG
 
babybart

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I still split 12-16 cord by hand. I have a re-handled hardware store maul I use to split the rounds I no longer want to lift. This replacement handle is a synthetic of some sort. I do not find much transfer of vibration. That handle has a HS-2 Handle Saver on it to protect against over-strikes.
View attachment 857584
Then switch to the Fiskars splitting ax on a block to complete the splitting. Again, no noticeable vibration.

I usually wear light Atlas Nitrile glove, mostly to avoid slipping and splinters. In the sub-20° weather, I wear the heavier Grey gloves.

View attachment 857585

Leather gloves wear out way to fast on my hands.View attachment 857586

I always wear out the left glove, and I have taken two pair and turned one of the right hand gloves inside-out to remake a useable pair:

View attachment 857587

But that only bought me a couple more hours. The Nitrile palm gloves last a month or more.


We should get together, your lefts look like my rights! Funny, that was the first thing I noticed in your pics.
 
AmateurSawer

AmateurSawer

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I occasionally split by hand using a composite ax and a wood maul. The only noticeable vibration from either is from an awkward strike.
I think I might borrow that Super Splitter again for another try in some seasoned oak I have but it seems,since there's no noticeable difference in handles,I might have saved some money by asking.
 

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