Sprocket sheered off

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noob290

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Anyone seen the sprocket sheer off the clutch drum? Everything is still on the shaft, just not connected together anymore. Yesterday this happened to my dads ms271. Searching around the internet i couldn't find any others. He wants to take it to the dealer to have them repair it but isnt that like a 30 second repair? Not sure why he wants to spend $100 on something like that.

Is there anywhere on the internet we can order one or will a Stihl dealer have one for cheap?
 
Yes, you let them run too long and they will split in half. I have one in the shop from my Makita 401 and it's a spur. It's an easy change for some, tough for others. The 270 is very easy because you don't remove the clutch. Worst part is getting the eclip off an on. You can destroy the crankshaft letting them run too long. Stihl doesn't have anything cheap at the dealer. Get one from a site sponsor.
 
Simple fix, don't take it to the dealer. E-clip off,new drum on, E-clip back on. Oh and grease the roller bearing while you have the drum off. And make sure to line up the oiler to the notch on the drum so it sets in properly or you'll never get the E-clip on
 
You could try to take it to the dealer and ask them to replace the part as defective. But if it is 10 years old, that might be hard. Also, if it is worn, and due for replacement anyway, they would be unlikely to replace it.

OEM STIHL part might be that high, but you can replace it yourself, just as jr27236 mentions. One thing I would add, is to place a rag over the 'e'-clip before you pry it off with a small screwdriver - they tend to fly! An aftermarket sprocket may be available from one of the site sponsors.



Photos would be nice!

P.S. see page 16 in this STIHL guide:
https://www.msuextension.org/forestry/archives/FMC2011/Sharp_Advice.pdf

Philbert
 
I have seen more than one Oregon brand spur sprocket break free from the drum where the welds just broke between the spur and drum. Havn`t seen an OEM one do that, won`t say one wouldn`t.

Furnace brazed. Parts not cleaned well beforehand.

I've seen this as well on a few little Homelites. I suspect running with the chain brake on hastened their demise.
 
Right, but it did hold up for 10 years, according to the OP.

Philbert
Not saying they would warranty it, just that 67L36Driver is right, factory defect due to improper cleaning before furnace brazing. Saw a lot of furnace brazing in a former life, that is poor workmanship.
 
Not saying they would warranty it, . . . Saw a lot of furnace brazing in a former life, that is poor workmanship.
That's why I was curious how often this happens. I have never seen it before.

Clearly it is a defect, just based on performance, and should not have occurred. It is common to see sprockets chewed away to nothing by wear, that that are still firmly attached to the clutch drum. I am sure that STIHL would have warrantied it if it was a fairly new part, or one that showed little sign of wear. Interesting to hear about the furnace brazing.

Philbert
 
Well, the parts I was involved with were for aircraft use. I was part of the quality team that assessed discrepant material for disposition. It might be used, reworked or scrapped.

Parts were typically bead blasted with glass beads then chemically cleaned with mild acid. No dirt of any kind, no dust, no oil, no finger prints allowed on the parts. I would suspect that chainsaw parts might not be cleaned as carefully.

The parts were then assembled using gravity to hold them in place, they often had pilots that fit in holes to assure alignment. Braze wire preforms or chips were inserted between the parts or right at the outside of the joint, touching both parts. A few to hundreds of parts were put on a rack and loaded into a vacuum chamber, in this case it was about 3 feet in diameter and 5 feet long. One end opened for admittance. The air was pumped out and electric heat applied to melt the braze alloy. No flux was used. From the color of the damaged part, it would appear that a bronze alloy was used in this case, the sprockets I have seen looked very similar. Sometimes silver alloys are used, there are hundreds of different alloys used depending on the base metal, temperature desired and other factors. The parts were cooled in the vacuum, perhaps over night, they came out of the chamber all shiny and clean.

Open furnaces can also be used, normally with a reducing atmosphere. The prevents oxides forming at brazing temperature. The parts are cleaned and loaded similarly but a metal conveyor carries them through the hot zone of the furnace. This process is continuous and it often used for heat treating metal parts as well as brazing.

The photo above looks like the parts were perhaps oily, the braze was applied under the points of the spur, perhaps a wire formed in a spur like shape. The dirt on the parts prevented the alloy from flowing out. As can be often seen on these assemblies, braze can flow out near the rim of the drum.

It is possible that the parts were hand brazed, that method is still used for relatively large production runs. Clutch drums are sold in large enough quantities however that hand brazing would not seem economical. Even so, it looks like the parts were not cleaned properly. Close inspection might reveal what the exact nature of the problem was. It is pretty clear that the part was defective however.

Nice call 67L36Driver.

Bad joints are probably way more common than we know, a good joint is very nearly as strong as the base metal. A poor joint might last 10 years or more, eh?
 

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