Spur vs Rim

[highpower]

I need to order a couple sprockets, currently all my saws use spur sprockets. What are the advantages or disadvantages of converting to rim and drum. I know this should be in the saw section but I would rather have the opinion of firewood cutters than pro-timber cutters. Thanks.

 

[stihl sawing]

Rims are cheaper to buy and i believe they hold the chain better. Easier to change too.

 

[windthrown]

Rims. I am a non-pro timber cutter. I have rims even on my weenie 025 and 210 saws. They run better and they are way cheaper. You can also have several types of them and swap them out for more/less torque or higher/lower chain speed. More slots means higher chain speed and less torque. Fewer slots mean lower chain speed and more torque. That way you get more options for better control if you change bar lengths and types of wood. Personally I think that any saw can be improved with putting on a rim sprocket drive instead of a spur sproket.

 

[highpower]

What about chain length? If I convert to rims do I have to buy new chains or do they stay the same? More slots longer chain, less slots shorter? I can see the advantage of cheaper. What about the drums do they wear out or do you just have to replace rims? Sorry for all the questions but like most people I work hard for my money and like to buy the best the first time. Thanks again.

 

[crashagn]

Also a non pro.. but all of my saws have rims on them except 1.. the stihl 11av. Havent gotten around to converting it. The rim wears out, replace the rim. I would think it may be good judgment to put a new bearing in also for how cheep they are nowadays. Dont know. I do know the rim style has a little of side to side movement for chain alingment, to were a spur sprocket will wear a groove around it.. and like the others say.. Rims are cheaper and faster to replace

 

[Hugenpoet]

Rims. I am a non-pro timber cutter. I have rims even on my weenie 025 and 210 saws. They run better and they are way cheaper. You can also have several types of them and swap them out for more/less torque or higher/lower chain speed. More slots means higher chain speed and less torque. Fewer slots mean lower chain speed and more torque. That way you get more options for better control if you change bar lengths and types of wood. Personally I think that any saw can be improved with putting on a rim sprocket drive instead of a spur sproket.

+1 Cheap and really easy to replace and run great.

 

[arlen]

Rims. I am a non-pro timber cutter. I have rims even on my weenie 025 and 210 saws. They run better and they are way cheaper. You can also have several types of them and swap them out for more/less torque or higher/lower chain speed. More slots means higher chain speed and less torque. Fewer slots mean lower chain speed and more torque. That way you get more options for better control if you change bar lengths and types of wood. Personally I think that any saw can be improved with putting on a rim sprocket drive instead of a spur sproket.

Does this work on 3/8th chain and .025 chain ?

 

[2FatGuys]

Does this work on 3/8th chain and .025 chain ?

I think you mean "3/8th chain and .325 chain". If so, then the answer is YES. Bailey's, a site sponsor, has a great selection of drum and rim kits and various rim sizes and configurations.

 

[arlen]

I think you mean "3/8th chain and .325 chain". If so, then the answer is YES. Bailey's, a site sponsor, has a great selection of drum and rim kits and various rim sizes and configurations.

Thanks for the correction and information.
I think I mean.025 and .0375 chain.
Is this correct ?

 

[rbtree]

no..

3/8th pitch chain=.375.
1/4 pitch chain=.250....this chain is rarely used anymore, mostly for carving applications
.325 is the commonly used smaller pitch chain chain.

Buy one clutch drum, and any pitch sprocket will fit. Excepting the spline size....the large size fits most Stihls (260 and up, i think), and Huskys from the 365 and up. (I'd have to check my 357 to be sure, but think it takes the smaller spline.)

 

[windthrown]

Thanks for the correction and information.
I think I mean.025 and .0375 chain.
Is this correct ?

Just to clarify, you need a different rim for any different chain pitch. For example, a 3/8 rim for 3/8 chain and a .325 rim for .325 chain. The rims need to match the bar and chain size and pitch. But that is the same with a spur sprocket. The number of teeth in a spur sprocket also correlate with the number of slots in a rim drive. With a rim drive, you can swap to other pitch bar and chains though, w/o having to replace the entire brake drum and spur drive. For example, if you have a 390 and a 3/8 bar and chain, as well as a .325 bar and chain, you can swap between bars and chains, and only change out the rim.

To clarify on your other question, you can keep the same rim drive (or spur, for that matter) with different bar and chain lengths. A 3/8 rim drive will drive all lengths of 3/8 chains. It is just that when you are driving a longer bar, you may want to change the number of drivers in the spur to either increase the torque and lower the chain speed so that it does not bog down in the wood. You may also want to decrease the torque and increase the chain speed for different cutting applications. Different fallers have different opinions, and favorite setups. Typically Stihl has 3 sprocket teeth options on their mid-size and pro saws. They are listed in the parts lists of the saws.

 

[ShoerFast]

Rims run with less friction/ware by supporting the chain by the 'rim' , you will notice a slightly longer free-wheeling after you let off the throttle (very slightly).

And you can swap old wore out chains - new chains and back with rims.

Spur sprocket's seem to like, new spurs with new chains and wore out sprockets with wore out chains better. As they seem to hop if you mix them.

Good chance once you run rim sprockets you will not want to ever run a spur again, there that much smoother.

 

[highpower]

Thanks for all the info. Once again this site has cost me money. But at least maybe this time it will save money in the long run.

 

[spike60]

I need to order a couple sprockets, currently all my saws use spur sprockets. What are the advantages or disadvantages of converting to rim and drum. I know this should be in the saw section but I would rather have the opinion of firewood cutters than pro-timber cutters. Thanks.

I'm curious as to what saws you own. Older saws of all sizes were more likely to come with spur sprockets. Today most of the smaller saws come with spurs and the bigger/pro stuff all come with rims.

I agree with all of the guys who say that the rim style is the way to go. I don't think that for general firewood cutting, the advantage is great enough to throw out a spur that is still in good shape. But since you need to replace them anyway, you should definitely switch over to the rim system. An oregon power match drum and rim kit should go for $20 or less. After that, the rims are just $5.

 

[highpower]

I'm curious as to what saws you own. Older saws of all sizes were more likely to come with spur sprockets. Today most of the smaller saws come with spurs and the bigger/pro stuff all come with rims.

I agree with all of the guys who say that the rim style is the way to go. I don't think that for general firewood cutting, the advantage is great enough to throw out a spur that is still in good shape. But since you need to replace them anyway, you should definitely switch over to the rim system. An oregon power match drum and rim kit should go for $20 or less. After that, the rims are just $5.

I own several saws old and new from a small Echo 302s to a an 031 Stihl with a Husky and a Craftsman thrown in for variety. The plan was not to rush out and convert all of them to rim and drum. I need a new sprocket or two for the Stihl and had read about the rim and drum but did not know anything about them. I am a mechanic by trade so I like to know how stuff works, plus if there is a tool that will make my job easier I am all for it. The rim and drum looks like my kind of "tool".

 

[arlen]

Just to clarify, you need a different rim for any different chain pitch. For example, a 3/8 rim for 3/8 chain and a .325 rim for .325 chain. The rims need to match the bar and chain size and pitch. But that is the same with a spur sprocket. The number of teeth in a spur sprocket also correlate with the number of slots in a rim drive. With a rim drive, you can swap to other pitch bar and chains though, w/o having to replace the entire brake drum and spur drive. For example, if you have a 390 and a 3/8 bar and chain, as well as a .325 bar and chain, you can swap between bars and chains, and only change out the rim.

To clarify on your other question, you can keep the same rim drive (or spur, for that matter) with different bar and chain lengths. A 3/8 rim drive will drive all lengths of 3/8 chains. It is just that when you are driving a longer bar, you may want to change the number of drivers in the spur to either increase the torque and lower the chain speed so that it does not bog down in the wood. You may also want to decrease the torque and increase the chain speed for different cutting applications. Different fallers have different opinions, and favorite setups. Typically Stihl has 3 sprocket teeth options on their mid-size and pro saws. They are listed in the parts lists of the saws.

Thanks for clearing it up. David