Square chain, I ain't ever going back to round!

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Sorry, was busy with guest's last night, pics as requested;

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/170447d1296498996-020-jpg

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/170448d1296499005-028-jpg

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/177974d1301451014-095-jpg

I can see that you did touch the tie straps slightly so that leads to ask. As the chain wears and you resharpen you need to adjust for wear by moving the tooth up, won't that get into the strap even more? You chain bar looks almost vertical at zero degrees, meaning that your using more angle on the wheels side plate bevel? Mine is near 5 degrees of backward tilt and the chain is held nearer the back of the bar about 1" from the exact top. Guess it doesn't really matter if you can get the tooth angle right and not hurt the strap?

The Silvey guys said the shaping block should be set at 20* to the top plate and that should yield a 3* side plate angle, is your shaping blocks set to 20*?

And should I worry about top plate angle, looks more like 35*?

Thanks,

Can't help ya with your machine settings, but I can tell ya that you can get into the straps pretty good, and I have yet to have a chain come apart. Think about how much is removed for a race chain.
 
As long as the chain self feeds and stays sharp for a couple tanks then I don't worry about the angle on the top plate. Iv'e gotten into the tie straps a lot more than that without breaking a chain. As it wears you can dress the top of the wheel down a little more and not the side plate as much.
 
As long as the chain self feeds and stays sharp for a couple tanks then I don't worry about the angle on the top plate. Iv'e gotten into the tie straps a lot more than that without breaking a chain. As it wears you can dress the top of the wheel down a little more and not the side plate as much.



yes you can dress top of stone more if cutting the straps too much ,you dont need to dress stone to take the gullets out at same time ,take a round file or if have a round grinder remove them after ,i was doing same thing trying to take gullets out in my cuts ,i dresss the stone so it lines up with the bend on the side of the cutter now not below it
 
I usually take the gullets back with a round file. 3/16" or 5/32" works better than 7/32" to me. This is hand filed in this picture but the gullets are about as long as I let them get. I like to take them back past the side plate so they're out of the way plenty for a few sharpenings. I had a guy that cuts production out west tell me the wider the side plate the better it seems to cut and I believe he's right.

2011-11-15_14-09-49_95.jpg
 
Is there any reason why you can't square grind with a more conventional chain grinder? It looks to me like all that is needed is the square-finished grind wheel.

I suspect that the closer positioning required for square grinding might punish you a little bit on the cheaper Oregon-style grinders.



What? Nobody got answer?

This ignorant midwest redneck don't know no better except by asking, so would somebody tell me the answer?
 
What? Nobody got answer?

This ignorant midwest redneck don't know no better except by asking, so would somebody tell me the answer?

AFAIK, the angles needed on the stone as well as the machine are unachievable on a standard grinder without heavily modifying it.

Some have talked about building their own square grinder. The fabrication would be fairly straight forward, especially with another grinder on-hand to measure from.
 
What? Nobody got answer?

This ignorant midwest redneck don't know no better except by asking, so would somebody tell me the answer?



the angles are wrong for a square cutter ,on round the stone cuts the face of tooth ,square the stone is kind of under the top of tooth ,with out a picture its kind of hard to put into words ,sorry if confused you worse
 
I think the Stihl model grinders have an attachment to do square, but as stated, the grinder is different and would probably be easier to design from scratch and just use a motor that would do forward and reverse directions.
 
I found a section in my Oregon book for Square ground chain specs: only 15° top angle, 0° downward angle, and an enormous 45° table tilt angle.

My Oregon grinder only has a 10° table tilt, so that kills that idea.
 
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