Square filed cutters...

[woojr]

I just ran my first skip square filed cutter. Put it on 36" Stihl 460 and must say I was impressed. I had previously complained about what a lacklustre performer this saw was. After opening the muffler and going to the skip chain I am much happier. And today, I couldn't believe how nicly it pulled the 3 footer through oak and maple as I ripped with the grain some fairly large planks and blocks. One was a tough, double knotted chunk of white oak that looks like an alien. There is something about this cutter and maybe the 063 drive links that kept it smooth in the cut and had almost no hangups. I am definitely gettin those flat sided files and using this chain the way it was designed to be used. I haven't ripped across the grain yet, and don't know how long it'll stay sharp but I am encouraged by the performance of both the style cutter and the saw.
woojr

 

[jp hallman]

There you GO! Glad you "Saw The Light"! It'll take some practice, remember you square file like you sharpen a knife blade. Into the tooth, not from the backside.

 

[Diesel JD]

Cool, just make sure the oiler is adjusted all the way out for this setup as it is at the edge of what the 460 can do. Also be aware that there is ripping chain available for long rips, although some folks do just fine with standard square or round chisel.

 

[Lakeside53]

I use the Stihl RSLK (Skip RS square filed) for ripping - no mods, just out of the box. Works great. When dull I round grind it and "granberg style" mod every 5 and 6th cutters. I really should take the time to square file it, but I have a diamond round grinder and it's so damn easy!

If you don't have the factory 460 Full Wrap your oil pump is limited. The full wrap version has the High Output pump, but you can update the standard pump by replacing the adjuster screw and piston, or, put an aux oiler on the mill to dip oil on the sprocket end. I'm doing both on my 066.

 

[woojr]

Okay, you file into the tooth? I'm glad somebody told me that one... Can anyone tell me why?
As for the oiler.. it has been less than impressive on the 24" bar, yet as long as I keep the chain real sharp it doesn't stretch. Looks dry as hell but revlves smoothly. The 36 is the heavier 063 and it seems to stay in the groove better. I'm not sure I articulated that properly but I can feel the difference. I think my next 25 is going to be a 063 as well. I think what I am saying is that if all is perfect, sharpness, clean bar groove and holes, full oil setting works most efficiently. One cannot however hope to compensate for loss of sharpness and cleanliness by opening up the oiler. Its actually an interesting challenge.
Thanks men and work safe. Woojr

 

[woojr]

Forgot to ask, what is Granberg style?

 

[ShoerFast]

Okay, you file into the tooth? I'm glad somebody told me that one... Can anyone tell me why? ,,,,,,,,
Its actually an interesting challenge.
Thanks men and work safe. Woojr

Woojr

If you pull the crome feather eadge into the tooth , it deburrs it as you sharpen, but it's harder on the file.
As I'm no were near the square filer ,,,,yet! I can get my square to out cut my round filed,,,,, I do need to do most of the filling from the inside of the cutter, and finish with a couple lite swipes from the out-side - in.


Granberg Ripping Chain is just altered full-comp. chain by taking the top plate off of ,,,,"every other, every other left and right cutter",,,,,,, as I'm not sure that will read , just take a look at it , I think Madisons web site has a picture?

Some that do a lot of milling will still use full-comp. or reguler skip chain.
Kevin

 

[scottr]

Link

Forgot to ask, what is Granberg style?

http://www.granberg.com/ripping_chain.htm

 

[Lakeside53]

Woojr
Granberg Ripping Chain is just altered full-comp. chain by taking the top plate off of ,,,,"every other, every other left and right cutter",,,,,,, as I'm not sure that will read , just take a look at it , I think Madisons web site has a picture?

Some that do a lot of milling will still use full-comp. or reguler skip chain.
Kevin

I use the stock square ground initially as it is already 10 degrees. When I modify it I just remove a left and right pair of top plates every 4 cutters, not every two as Granberg does, and grind the clearing cutters to 10 degrees (not 0-5) so they are still cutting as well as clearing. Their chain is semi-chisel full comp, mine is full chisel skip, so I can pull more load on the chain, cuts easier but maybe dulls quicker, maybe. There is no "right" ripping chain as it depends on what wood you are cutting and what saw you are running. Mine is cutting softwoods or soft "hardwoods" and this works fine for me on an 066. Over time I'll experiment with other chain grind combinations, but for now I have a bunch of expensive chains to wear out

 

[woojr]

Thanks for all the great information. You guys did everything but come over and do it for me. After seeing the price of the files I think I'm gonna try using the grinder on some old chains that are hangin around with no saw...
Dressing the wheel oughta be interesting. If I get it, I'll figure out how to post a picture and you fellas can critique my effort. Thanks again, woojr

 

[Old Gold]

Works for round chisel also!

There you GO! Glad you "Saw The Light"! It'll take some practice, remember you square file like you sharpen a knife blade. Into the tooth, not from the backside.

JP, being left handed, I've found this method to also work extremely well for some of the round chisel chains I use/have used. I am able to look down the tooth easier and keep my angles good and straight. Learned this from a cutter who came from the Mt. St. Helens area of Washington State. The old boy has cut lots of old growth

 

[Old Gold]

Keep your wheel clean!!!

Thanks for all the great information. You guys did everything but come over and do it for me. After seeing the price of the files I think I'm gonna try using the grinder on some old chains that are hangin around with no saw...
Dressing the wheel oughta be interesting. If I get it, I'll figure out how to post a picture and you fellas can critique my effort. Thanks again, woojr

Woojr, little grinding tip, before removing your chain, run your saw through a piece of clean wood, whatever that may be, depending on your geographic area and working conditions. I prefer douglas fir for this. Anyhow, run your saw through the wood until your chain is clean. You'll find by doing this ( I have anyway ) that it not only cleans your chain, it keeps your dressing wheel good and clean for the most part. Less dirt and grime on the cutter teeth means less cutting effort for the wheel, and less chance of burning your cutter tooth. You'll also reduce your grinding time significantly. Take your time dressing the wheel and getting your angles where you want them. It'll get easier the more you do it. You'll find there's no substitute for ground chain - square or round. Good Luck!!!

 

[Lakeside53]

Woojr, little grinding tip, before removing your chain, run your saw through a piece of clean wood, whatever that may be, depending on your geographic area and working conditions. I prefer douglas fir for this. Anyhow, run your saw through the wood until your chain is clean. You'll find by doing this ( I have anyway ) that it not only cleans your chain, it keeps your dressing wheel good and clean for the most part. Less dirt and grime on the cutter teeth means less cutting effort for the wheel, and less chance of burning your cutter tooth. You'll also reduce your grinding time significantly. Take your time dressing the wheel and getting your angles where you want them. It'll get easier the more you do it. You'll find there's no substitute for ground chain - square or round. Good Luck!!!

good comments...and,,, use a product called "cool grind" or equivalent a few tiems each chain sharpen. Stops the wheels from loading up and helps stop the burrs and overheated cutters.