Square Grinders: Silvey Swing Arm, or RazurII Preferances / Opinions.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Then I reckon il get me a new unit they got a number or website? I'd rather do that than get one off some two bit booger picking sissy #### beater hahaha.
 
No website. They're in lakeview oregon. You can call and talk to them and they'll send some information about them if you would like.
 
I have owned a RSII for years and have had good luck with it. I also like the salmon wheels. You can put multi point or single point dressers in them. It works out good to have a set of both. By several wheels at once, screw in the single points and get all of the wheels dressed and then switch to the multi points. The multi p. seem to make a better finish but the single points last longer, so do the ruff original profile with them.

Yumm....I'll order me up some Salmon then ASAP.
Thanks for the Dresser info, I'll take your advise and order up a multipoint while I'm at it.
there about $25 I think.
 
I have a RSII and I'm not impressed with the slide mechanism. I bought it used and it was pretty worn and missing a boot. I tried to clean up the surfaces and re-adjust it but it's either too loose and doesn't hold good tolerances or it's too tight and you can't move the tooth smoothly into the wheel. I also noticed that it grinds a little different from one side to the other because the slide was not perfectly aligned with the wheel making a couple degree difference in top plate angle no matter what I do. My final gripe is that there is no nice way of adjusting the height of the stone, so going from a old ground back chain to a new chain or switching manufactures makes for a lengthy adjustment process of taking off the stone, adjusting the height of the stone arbor on the shaft, re-assembling and truing the stone, ect.

Last night I went through and designed a new slide block that will use 8 mini ball bearings on eccentrics to make an adjustable linear slide. Hopefully it won't catch much grinding dust since it won't need lubrication and I can just blow it off with compressed air. I'll be able to adjust the two horizontal axes to make it grind true on both sides and slots cut on the slide base mounting location to the upright will allow for quicker vertical adjustment. In all it's just a new slide block and I'll be able to use the old slide and everything else as normal, but there will be a few upgrades on the chain holders as well. Parts will be here in a few days and it will take me about 5 hours to make the eccentric pins on the lathe and the block in a cross slide table on the drill press (I can't afford a mill yet).

attachment.php


View attachment 252358
 
i have good luck with grey wheel on razur2 ,with dirt hit chains ,or converting round to square its pretty forgiving ,if chain needs a touch up ,salmon works pretty good
 
Yumm....I'll order me up some Salmon then ASAP.
Thanks for the Dresser info, I'll take your advise and order up a multipoint while I'm at it.
there about $25 I think.

You really need two dressers or it will take a lot of unscrewing and screwing. One on the side plate and one on the top plate.

srcar52, you are right about the slide mechanism being the weak point. I bought mine in 88 and after a few years the slide started to drag. It was already shot but I thought taking it apart was a good idea and that ruined it. 100 bucks and a new slide was on the way. I noticed it was sealed at the ends of the rubber boot much tighter than the original one. I put a bead of silicone around the ends of the rubber for extra insurance. Its history if crap starts to get in there.
I have never adjusted the wheel height on mine. The top plate adj. takes care of the height. Since the chain rides in a circular holder the height is controled by where the top plate adj. stops the chain on the wheel. If the new ones are the same as the old ones the wheel (or whatever you call it) the chain rides in is .050 guage on one end and .063 on the other.
 
my razur2 has 2 dressers ,one for top ,one for side ,they were set pretty good when i got it ,and havent messed with them much
 
RSII Slide mechanism wear.

I want to make sure I understand this Right…

So grinding Debris gets into the Slide mechanism causing the slide wear prematurely, and that in turn causes an inability to keep tight tolerances.
Do your feel you would have gotton the problem anyway even if you recieved your Grinder with both boots in good condition?
Should I try to add silicone to the boots, or just take care to keep it as clean as possible?

Also, this must have taken some time to get it to that point. I know you recieved yours used condition,
But would you venture a guess of approximately how many chains
Were ground, or Wheels used-up, years in service before a problem started to reveal itself?
 
Last edited:
I want to make sure I understand this Right…

So grinding Debris gets into the Slide mechanism causing the slide wear prematurely, and that in turn causes an inability to keep tight tolerances.
Do your feel you would have gotton the problem anyway even if you recieved your Grinder with both boots in good condition?
Should I try to add silicone to the boots, or just take care to keep it as clean as possible?

Also, this must have taken some time to get it to that point. I know you recieved yours used condition,
But would you venture a guess of approximately how many chains
Were ground, or Wheels used-up, years in service before a problem started to reveal itself?

I assuming it had ground a lot of chains, probably after missing one boot. Also the bearing where full of trash and quite worn in the electric motor so it leads me to believe it was well used. I don't know if the bearings had been replaced before but they where metal shield bearings which are not great for dusty environments where they can't be serviced often. I will be replacing them with sealed bearings like there should have been.

I guess the slides hold up fine as long as the boots seal but as soon as any grinding dust gets in the slide it's all over. I could have bought a new slide but I always choose to improve something if I have a chance.
 
The one I kept had a torn boot. I took it apart and cleaned on it and smoothed out the aluminum piece a little by hand and assembled with a new boot. I oiled it with REM gun oil with teflon and it works good. Just have to oil it before I use it and it's good for a few days.

Sean what would a setup like that cost me if you built a few?
 
The one I kept had a torn boot. I took it apart and cleaned on it and smoothed out the aluminum piece a little by hand and assembled with a new boot. I oiled it with REM gun oil with teflon and it works good. Just have to oil it before I use it and it's good for a few days.

Sean what would a setup like that cost me if you built a few?

I don't have a CNC lathe or mill so the labor is going to be the majority of the cost. I'll probably have 5 hours in the first one, subsequent units will take less time. I'd probably need $100 for labor. I'll let you know when I have this one finished how well it works.

3x3x1.75 block of aluminum $18
$3.12 per R3 bearing x 10 $31.20
3/8-24 thread rod for the eccentrics and misc nuts/cap screws $15

total of materials $54.20

So I estimate around $150, and your original slide shaft will have to be decent enough to use. I polished mine on 600 grit wet sandpaper on a piece of glass, it's good to go.
 
I missed this yesterday. If it works out good i think it would be worth it. I think the parts from silvey are pretty close to that cost.
 
If the roller bearing makes operation smother and allows for adjustment more easily, also makes switching chain cutter side more precise without having to adjust as much with the current set-up... I'm all in!
 
If the roller bearing makes operation smother and allows for adjustment more easily, also makes switching chain cutter side more precise without having to adjust as much with the current set-up... I'm all in!

That's the goal, we'll see how it works out.
 
Razur II has arrived

This thing is great! I'm having a blast with it.
As Promised Here's a couple of pics of my first square chisel sharpening attempt.
The aggressive Brown silvey wheel came pretty well set up as far as I could tell, it takes it off quick, but I would prefer a smoother edge.
I'll try one of the other wheels tomorrow.
I've converted most of my round chisel to squre now.
Thanks for all the advise, It's greatly appreciated.
Let me know what you guy's think...
If any of you guys know how to have the images show up in the post please do me the favor, I have yet to learn how to do that. Thanks

View attachment 252903View attachment 252904View attachment 252905View attachment 252906View attachment 252907
 
If you get the RS II make sure you have a nice degree finder. It will make setup and changes much easier.

Thanks for this bit of good advise. Calibrating off the stone @ 0°
The Factory had the top plate dresser set @ 18.5°
and side plate dresser @ 71.5° or a total 90°
I also labeled everything to make it essy to get back to this point.:msp_smile:
 
If the roller bearing makes operation smother and allows for adjustment more easily, also makes switching chain cutter side more precise without having to adjust as much with the current set-up... I'm all in!

Well I finally finished the new slide block. I've made a thread about it. So far it's lived up to my expectations. It will be interesting to see how the bearings hold up to the grinding dust but I can always blow it off with compressed air if it starts to get a lot of build up on it. I've learned that truing the stone causes the most harmful dust so maybe a quick blow down after that will go a long way in longevity.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/210432.htm
 

Latest posts

Back
Top