Starting my Husqvarna 445

[Mycrossover]

Hi, this is my first post. I got this, my first chainsaw last year. It has always been hard to start. This time zip, nada, nothing. I dumped and refilled the tank with fresh Husqvaena premix 50:1, topped off the oiler tank, found I have spark, a clean exhaust screen, clean gas filter, compression release works and compression seems to be OK. I notice that whether the choke/ kill switch is set for choke on or off, the choke plate is still closed unless I pull the trigger. Is this normal? I tried a shot of starter spray right into the carb and still nothing. I watched the online starting videos and I am stumped. I can see the carb being gummed up over the winter but the starter spray should have given me at least a kick, no? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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[duckybud]

Sounds like it is flooded, pull the spark plug, turn upside down and pull starter rope slowly making sure the ignition switch is off

 

[Canyon Angler]

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/confused.322630/

 

[Mycrossover]

Sounds like it is flooded, pull the spark plug, turn upside down and pull starter rope slowly making sure the ignition switch is off

Thanks. I'll try that. There is no regular ignition switch, just the spring return 3rd position on the multi function choke/kill awitch. CHOKE ON- CHOKE OFF- STOP( with spring return to CHOKE OFF). I just remembered the starting instruction video said to turn the choke off after the first sign of life. After it starts, they said it would be at high revs and you just had to blip the throttle and it would drop to idle. In CHOKE OFF I noticed the butterfly was still closed unless you pulled the throttle. Putting it together, it looks like the high revs on start open the butterfly for you if you are set to CHOKE OFF. Wish me luck.

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[Mycrossover]

Still dead. Nothing came out inverted. Carb must be all gummed up. I am taking it over to the salesman that sold me both Husqvarna items. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Plug was a little wet but normal for an engine that has not started yet. There is gas in the primer bulb. I have a whole collection of 2 and four cycle engines, weed wacker,lawn tractor, generator, Cyclone Rake, pressure washer, snow blower and this is the only one I can't start. Before I start ripping it apart, I want to make sure it is not me doing something stupid. It was a factory service unit. Except for being a little hard to start when I got it, it ran great. It has very little time on it. Headscratch.

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[Mycrossover]

Took it to the dealer. 2 to3 weeks, $59 deposit. No estimate for the best guess, a gummed up carb. Screw that. I brought it home. I'll pull the carb, shoot carb cleaner into every orifice, including where the needle valves are, after counting turns on removal. Worse comes worse, a whole carb is probably cheaper than the dealer Where's the best place to get a service manual? Any advice on carb removal? Thanks again. This isn't my first carb but it is buried more than most.

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[backhoelover]

check pm for service manual. let us know if you have any questions. post the numbers off the carbs if you need one of use to look up a carb kit.

 

[backhoelover]

fyi i would puller the muffler and look at piston before i get too deep into the saw

 

[backhoelover]

fyi new oem carb is 30.00 -35.00

 

[Mycrossover]

Much thanks to backhoelover I have the service manual. I found the ********* where he has posted a lot of manuals. I now have my service manual and parts list with illustrated breakdowns, all printed out. The manual was a huge help getting the carb out without breaking something. Now I have to get some carb cleaner and see how it goes. I am debating just how far to disassemble it I hope Gumout is a good choice. People debate OEM carbs vs Chinese. I was surprised to see that the OEM carb is Made in China. A new carb is only if cleaning doesn't work.

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[cuinrearview]

If you decide to try a different carb I picked up a 445 parts unit from a dealer this weekend that he said has a rebuilt carb on it.

 

[Mycrossover]

I have all the literature and a big can of Gumout. I can pull the carb down to the bare body but considering all the little pieces that can end up never to be seen again and that I would like to avoid removing the hi ond low screws to save the adjustments, just how far would you go before putting it back in for another try. It looks like there is some anti tamper plugs on those screws. I can just shoot spray into every hole and blow it out but I will pull the metering or pump cover plates if it is recommended. The dealer seems to be well stocked with spare parts. I have rebuilt my share if 4 cycle carbs. This is a bit different. The only 2 cycle carbs in my past were model airplane engines and the carbs were nothing but a spray bar and a needle valve.

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[cuinrearview]

Get a major repair kit and replace all diaphragms, the needle, and clean the thing thoroughly. Take the needles out one at a time. You'll need a splined screwdriver from ebay. Make sure that you dry the carb body before you begin re-assembly. Those thin diaphragms don't like some carb cleaners.

 

[Mycrossover]

Get a major repair kit and replace all diaphragms, the needle, and clean the thing thoroughly. Take the needles out one at a time. You'll need a splined screwdriver from ebay. Make sure that you dry the carb body before you begin re-assembly. Those thin diaphragms don't like some carb cleaners.

Thanks. Are we talking about a small # Torx bit on a screwdriver handle when you say splined screwdriver? The manual lists special tools but I am sure it is just a part # and not what size is required. I am overdue for one of those mini Torx sets, anyway.

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[cuinrearview]

Like this:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Splined-Carb...5ffS&_nkw=splined+screwdriver&_from=R40&rt=nc

 

[Mycrossover]

FIXED!!!! Thanks everybody for your help. After misunderstanding what the adjustment screw drivers looked like, I found them online. They turn a screw but the end is hollow. Does that make them nut drivers? I pulled off the carb end caps, gaskets, pump soft parts and sprayed every oriface I could find with Gumout. Blew it dry and reassembled. It is harder to get the carb in and out than to work on it. One or two pulls with the choke on and it kicked. Turned the choke off and it started in one pull. It wasn't that easy when I got it. The local Husqvarna dealer only gets $20.98 for the carb but he does not seem to have the RB145 gasket kit. The kits are almost half the price of a carb. It might not even pay. At least I didn't have to mess with the hi and lo screws. I read that after saw is fully warmed up that the lo should be set so the chain just stops moving and the hi should be set so it 4 cycles at full throttle under no load and 2 cycles when cutting. If this is correct I will file it away for future reference after I buy the "screwdriver". Thanks again everybody for your help.

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[Mycrossover]

UNFIXED !/%!$%÷^. It started on one or two pulls and ran great when I tested it. It easily started again and ran for a few minutes. It made a few cuts and instantly stopped dead. I have to assume I missed something that found it's way to the carb. The one thing I did not do was flush the fuel line from the filter to the carb. I should probably replace both. Wish me luck. Comments always appreciated.

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[user 122190]

The saw from Hell. You'll be a pro small engine mechanic, very soon. Sounds like a redo will get it going again, possibly finding something missed along the way. Good Luck!