Stihl 024AV died

[bob393]

When I hang the saw from the starter it goes down slowly, perhaps a turn every 10 sec or so.
I ordered the coil just because I'm lost right now.
If there is some sort of solid state thingie in the coil for spark timing that could be it but if not I probably wasted the money.
Do you guys think I should pull the cylinder and replace the gaskets?
Who knows, not me.
I did try pulling it with my finger over the carburetor and with the air cleaner on and choked, no difference.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I believe you told us that you had a spark, so ordering a new coil and installing it will not solve the problem. I have worked on four Stihl 024AV chain saws that the owners said were dead. They all run today.

 

[Okie]

I don't know if yours uses a carb intake boot, but read this thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-028-av-fuel-woes.295877/#post-5823976
The cracked intake boot was allowing too much air to bypass the carb throat. (but the saw at least gave a pop when he direct injected fuel)

In answer to your question?

No don't pull the cylinder just to replace gaskets.
You will most likely be surprised how you overlooked what is bothering the saw.

 

[bob393]

You are right about the coil, I changed it out and no difference, It is killing me!

 

[rd35]

I just re-read this entire post. Bob, when you tried putting a couple of drops of gas in the carb, did you literally put just 2 or 3 drops. If so, then I would suggest trying it again....but this time pour about a thimble full of gas into the carb throat and give'er a pull with the throttle wide open and no choke. An actual "2 drops" of fuel is not enough to make one "pop".

 

[Okie]

Do as rd35 says:
about a thimbleful of 50:1 mixed gas at least and then you might have to take a piece of solid wire and tie the throttle wide open with no choke. It should give a pop on few pulls, might even run for about 2 seconds.

I have a lighter fluid can that I use to give em squirts on the one that are harder to get to the carb throat.. A thumb type oil can will work.
Or on the stihl just point the bar down and pour directly into the carb throat while the throttle is wide open

 

[rd35]

Hey Okie that's a great idea! I use an old oil can and it's messy! I'm going to get me one of those lighter fluid cans!!!

 

[NCstihl]

OK, Bob I'm late into your problem but ... I bought a "side of the road" MS250. Got it home and tried to start it. Nothing but a sore shoulder. Removed the housing and air cleaner. Shot a tiny bit of ether into the cylinder. Had to hold throttle wide open to keep the butterfly open. No pop. Tried a little fuel, no joy. Plug was dry. Pulled the carb. Shot ether directly into cylinder. Fired up. Took carb apart and cleaned, particularly the needle, seat and jets. Figured the guy left bad fuel, ethanol, and gummed it up. Drained his fuel, replaced it with fresh, ethanol free. Shot some into the cylinder, carb is soaking. Fired up with no carb in place. Reassembled the carb and set all adjustment screws to the middle. Discovered he had adjusted the low speed mixture screwing the screw all the way in. Shot some fuel through the carb into the cylinder, holding the throttle open. Fired up and kept running. Adjusted the carb, all is good. Thought for you. I may have missed it but I did not read that you reworked the carb or held throttle open when squirting ether or fuel. If the throttle is not open the butterfly will block any fuel getting in. That you just set it down and it quit with no wierd noise tells me it is probably something simple and cheap. I'd bet some crap got through or around the air filter or it is deteriorated, and clogged the carb. If you messed with the adjustment screws that may have made it worse. Recommend, remove carb. Shoot good fuel or ether (but it has zero lubrication so use sparingly if at all) directly in the intake. If it fires at all rebuild and adjust the carb. Hope this helps. All that complicated stuff may be overthinking when the basics, fuel and fire, rule. Good luck.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

A picture of the piston through the exhaust port would help me know it's not scored "too badly" for all the other advice at this point.
Can you post a picture of the piston for us?

 

[NCstihl]

Whatever did you find out with the saw?

 

[bob393]

Sorry bout the gap it time, I shelved the project for a bit. Spring is heavy bee keeping work time.

I pulled the piston and cylinder because when I looked down the spark plug hole I saw what appeared to be pock marks in the piston top.
With the piston out I found that one of the rings had broken and snapped off so ordered a new "kit" and hope to get it changed out this weekend.

God I hope that's it but I'm optimistic.

A new question though, How the hell do you get the two small studs out of the top of the cylinder? I tried vice grips with no luck and I'm afraid
that if I continue I will ruin the studs. You know the studs, the ones that hold the top cover on, well one holds it on the other has a rubber plug on
it for support of the cover.

One more question, on the piston the arrow is to the front, away from the spark plug hole, right.

 

[jeffbecky1]

Sorry bout the gap it time, I shelved the project for a bit. Spring is heavy bee keeping work time.

I pulled the piston and cylinder because when I looked down the spark plug hole I saw what appeared to be pock marks in the piston top.
With the piston out I found that one of the rings had broken and snapped off so ordered a new "kit" and hope to get it changed out this weekend.

God I hope that's it but I'm optimistic.

A new question though, How the hell do you get the two small studs out of the top of the cylinder? I tried vice grips with no luck and I'm afraid
that if I continue I will ruin the studs. You know the studs, the ones that hold the top cover on, well one holds it on the other has a rubber plug on
it for support of the cover.

One more question, on the piston the arrow is to the front, away from the spark plug hole, right.

Why do you want to remove those studs?

 

[jeffbecky1]

Sorry bout the gap it time, I shelved the project for a bit. Spring is heavy bee keeping work time.

I pulled the piston and cylinder because when I looked down the spark plug hole I saw what appeared to be pock marks in the piston top.
With the piston out I found that one of the rings had broken and snapped off so ordered a new "kit" and hope to get it changed out this weekend.

God I hope that's it but I'm optimistic.

A new question though, How the hell do you get the two small studs out of the top of the cylinder? I tried vice grips with no luck and I'm afraid
that if I continue I will ruin the studs. You know the studs, the ones that hold the top cover on, well one holds it on the other has a rubber plug on
it for support of the cover.

One more question, on the piston the arrow is to the front, away from the spark plug hole, right.

Is your cylinder trashed?

 

[bob393]

I'm thinking yes, the broken ring kind of pock marked the top of the cylinder and there is some scuffing where it rubbed the cylinder wall.
Not to mention the set I bought has a matched cylinder to the piston.