Stihl 024av won't idle

[allen j]

Hello all.
I'm new here and have to say that I am impressed with the forum. I am strictly a home heating firewood man and cut 10 to 12 cords a season. I use a Stihl 036 Pro and a 024AV. My 024AV runs strong wide open throttle but will not idle. It will start to idle then dies out. I just put a OEM kit in the carb. and did not find anything unusual. Gas suction hose looks good and pulser hose is new. It has good compression and good spark.

I searched for this topic in the history here and did not come up with anything so I thought I'd post to see what you think.

Thanks for your help.
:greenchainsaw:

 

[redunshee]

Hello all.
I'm new here and have to say that I am impressed with the forum. I am strictly a home heating firewood man and cut 10 to 12 cords a season. I use a Stihl 036 Pro and a 024AV. My 024AV runs strong wide open throttle but will not idle. It will start to idle then dies out. I just put a OEM kit in the carb. and did not find anything unusual. Gas suction hose looks good and pulser hose is new. It has good compression and good spark.

I searched for this topic in the history here and did not come up with anything so I thought I'd post to see what you think.

Thanks for your help.
:greenchainsaw:

Have you tried adjusting Lo needle? Maybe open it a bit. Did you set metering lever at correct height?

 

[striperswaper]

10 to 12 cords a season? heating with a fireplace or a 7000 sqft shack?

 

[allen j]

Have you tried adjusting Lo needle? Maybe open it a bit. Did you set metering lever at correct height?

I set the metering lever to .068" with a dial type depth gauge. Kit paperwork called for .060" to .070". Highest rpm was set with H screw approx. 3/4 turn from stop. L set to the point of no lag or bog from low speed to high speed, out about 1 turn from stop. When returning to idle, saw will run for approx 5 seconds then just die out.

I did get hold of Stihl co. Tech and he said put a carb on it as it has internal one way valves of some kind that cannot come out or be replaced.

 

[allen j]

10 to 12 cords a season? heating with a fireplace or a 7000 sqft shack?

Three wood stoves. My house and shop. My elderly neighbor who keeps his house about 80 degrees.

 

[sefh3]

Hello Welcome aboard.

Where in MI are you?

I would replace the fuel filter and see if it helps.

 

[Brian VT]

Mine idles funny too. It'll drop to almost stalling, then might pick up rpms, then drop down again. I posted a while ago and it was suggested that I do a pressure test and suspect a crank seal ? Everything looks so cramped in there that I haven't got around to it yet, though. When I do I'll post results here. Maybe this weekend.

 

[WoodchuckVT]

0 24 won't Idle

Just a thought. Though not having an idle problem, I took my 0 24 super down for a good cleaning and inspection. The saw is almost 30 years old, I have owned it for the last 10 years. I decided to change the crank seals, while I was there, as they were original. While doing a general check over, I discovered that the intake boot clamps were very loose{6 or more turns}. This is something that I have not seen posted on this site, but is something that should be checked. I also secured the impulse tube to the carb, with a wire tie. Just food for thought.
VT. Woodchuck

 

[Saw Dr.]

9 out of 10 times on those it is the flywheel side crank seal. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it is very common.

 

[lcso10]

Open the low side screw a little more.

 

[Brian VT]

Open the low side screw a little more.

Doesn't help mine, but it's certainly the 1st thing to try.

 

[allen j]

9 out of 10 times on those it is the flywheel side crank seal. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it is very common.

Well that is not bad news to me as I was somewhat prepared to hear that. It is time for a reseal I am sure but I figured I'd try what I know first. Didn't make the connection of the crank seals as it runs a full 13,000 rpm and does not bog excessively under load. I figured the seals would give problems at all rpm's.

I've had this saw for 12 years and this is the first problem to show up. I can't complain about that. I plan to keep it so I'll pull it apart and do the job right.

Thanks for the responses, I'll post after I get it going again and let anyone who is interested know what I find.

 

[redunshee]

Well that is not bad news to me as I was somewhat prepared to hear that. It is time for a reseal I am sure but I figured I'd try what I know first. Didn't make the connection of the crank seals as it runs a full 13,000 rpm and does not bog excessively under load. I figured the seals would give problems at all rpm's.

I've had this saw for 12 years and this is the first problem to show up. I can't complain about that. I plan to keep it so I'll pull it apart and do the job right.

Thanks for the responses, I'll post after I get it going again and let anyone who is interested know what I find.

Interested to see how you fix it. Keep us posted. Add'l info always helpful.

 

[allen j]

Hello Welcome aboard.

Where in MI are you?

I would replace the fuel filter and see if it helps.

Thanks Scott, interesting site, glad I found it. I do not what happened when I registered, I'll have to edit my info. I reside within the rural area of Hebron in NW Indiana.

 

[Saw Dr.]

You should not have to pull it apart very far to get those crank seals in. Do not seperate the crankcase halves unless you are wanting to put new crank bearings in it. That FW side is a bugger to get out, but it can be done. You'll need to remove the flywheel and then you can get right at the FW side. The clutch side requires clutch and oil pump removal, but that is not a big deal. If you must use an impact to get the clutch off, I always suggest making sure the flywheel is off first. Otherwise you run the risk of shearing the FW key. Same on re-assembly, put the clutch on first and then the flywheel. Also, be careful how far you drive those seals in. Take note of the depth before you remove the old ones. If you drive them in too far, they may get into the bearing and foul things up.

 

[Brian VT]

Good post B200. Thanks.

 

[VINIFIREWOOD]

I had the same issue with my 024. Everything checked out, good comp and pressure check, put in carb kit, fuel filter and line etc etc etc. with no results.

Took it to my local chainsaw wizard and he also was scratching his head. He had another carb off a parts saw so we threw it on and it ran perfect.

So when the Stihl factory tech says to you " new carb " I believe it

 

[Husqvarna87]

I have the same problem with my 024. It runs fine when its cold at idle but when it is hot it will not idle. But ether hot or cold it will run great on high idle

 

[Ozzie]

You should not have to pull it apart very far to get those crank seals in. Do not seperate the crankcase halves unless you are wanting to put new crank bearings in it. That FW side is a bugger to get out, but it can be done. You'll need to remove the flywheel and then you can get right at the FW side. The clutch side requires clutch and oil pump removal, but that is not a big deal. If you must use an impact to get the clutch off, I always suggest making sure the flywheel is off first. Otherwise you run the risk of shearing the FW key. Same on re-assembly, put the clutch on first and then the flywheel. Also, be careful how far you drive those seals in. Take note of the depth before you remove the old ones. If you drive them in too far, they may get into the bearing and foul things up.

Great way of putting this task. I'm now motivated to tackle my 024 which has sat for almost 3 years because I won't pay shop rates to get it fixed . My plan is to take the saw down to the seals, then let my shop mechanic pull the seals and replace. I really don't need a seal puller as I don't get that deep into the saws. Thanks for getting me off my arse and fixing my 024, which IMO is the best kept secret in Stihl's line over the years.


-Sorry I just help bump a 2 year old post, but hey the information was worth it. AS Rocks!