Stihl 026 vs Dolmar PS5100 - My initial observations

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Great, I think I'll try Oregon 20LP.

I'm not sure who supplies the stock Dolmar chain but it's stamped Dolmar and the drive links have the number 486 on them. It looks similar to Oregon 91VG or 90SG. (low kickback, low vibration, low cutting performance). I doubt it's 90SG because I don't think Dolmar uses the Oregon Micro Lite system. The bar is branded Dolmar and Oregon but there's no narrow kerf symbol.
 
are the 026/260 bars even interchangable with the Dolmar 5100 bars? If so it would actually get my interest. Over time we spend more on the high wear parts than the powerhead...assuming a good saw to start with.
 
The Dolmar PS-5100S uses the same midsize bar mount as most current saws Except For Stihl. Stihl uses there own bar mount.

Below is a picture from the Oregon Application Guide. The Dolmar PS-460, PS-510, & PS5100S were to new to be listed in this book.

Steve
 
If you go to the Oregon saw chain website they have downloadable information that tells all bar mounts and chains for all brands. This will be the easiest way to determine what bars are the same and fit what brands.
 
sawdust?

davefr said:
I think you guys are right about the stock chain not being sharp.

During my initial test, my 026 was throwing off nice big curly chips. I noticed the Dolmar was throwing off a lot of fine sawdust mixed in with the chips.

Do you think the chain is crap or just needs to be filled?

What homeowner would want a saw if it threw curly fries when he was expecting sawdust? First cut into the dirt and he's throwing dust anyway. Anyone that uses a saw often would recognize the chain was the wrong one on the Dolmar for the job and ask for a different chain at purchase time. But, any homeowner would be happy it throws the same sawdust his old saw did. It's all in who's going to use it for what. Once the homeowner catches on that with a different chain he has a real saw in his hands he is even happier. Some never catch on and wonder what we are talking about. Does the right chain for the job make a difference? Yes! For either saw. The low kickback chain is to save the homeowner from hurting himself and to allow for enough run time ( in the dirt) before he has to buy a new chain to learn some chainsaw skills. The idea is not to let the unknowing cut themselves to shreads first time out with the new toy. Right or wrong the low kickback chain is on the saws to save the homeowner from himself, his lack of skill handling the saws and insurance costs for the first "Oops" he has. The fact that he doesn't own or wear chaps or other PPE when he hits the wood pile aside, the homeowner needs the safety chain first time around. It's not until he reads about it or someone clues him in that he comes to know there are other chains out there for his saw.
 
davefr said:
I think you guys are right about the stock chain not being sharp.

During my initial test, my 026 was throwing off nice big curly chips. I noticed the Dolmar was throwing off a lot of fine sawdust mixed in with the chips.

Do you think the chain is crap or just needs to be filled?

I always take the consumer chain that comes with a new saw and grind off the safety or bumper link. I figure I bought the chain might as well use it up. Does anyone else do this, or just toss it?
 
Lakeside53 said:
Tell your dealer to swap the chain for the one you want, at no charge.
No such problems over here, except for the cheapest homeowner saws, the saws are sold with real chain.:)
Our problem is that the selection of chain models and gauges that are imported is severely limited.:angry2: :bang:
 
davefr said:
....
2. Weight - When both saws are outfitted with 18" bars and fueled up ready to cut wood they weight exactly 15.75#. The data sheets show the 026 being about 1 lb lighter but I found them nearly identical.
.....
4. Balance - The 026 with 18" bar points down about 10-20 degrees from horizontal when balanced by the handle. The Dolmar actually points up about 5 degrees.
......
I have to say that I find those statements pretty odd, as the Stihl should be notisably lighter than the Dolmar even with the slightly longer bar.

You are not having a heavy and solid Rollomatic ES bar on the Stihl, and a lighter laminated one on the Dolmar, are you??:confused:
 
SawTroll said:
I have to say that I find those statements pretty odd, as the Stihl should be notisably lighter than the Dolmar even with the slightly longer bar.

You are not having a heavy and solid Rollomatic ES bar on the Stihl, and a lighter laminated one on the Dolmar, are you??:confused:

The Stihl is a 026 with a stock 18" Rollamatic bar (.325).

The Dolmar also has the stock 18" Oregon bar (.325). With both saws fueled up ready to cut wood they weight 15 - 3/4 lbs. + or - 1 or 2 oz.

It's not an electronic scale but I couldn't detect any significant weight difference between the saws.

The Stihl is a '01 model so maybe it weighed a tad more then. Or maybe is has more sawdust build up.
 
I don't know about that logic Geofore. I picture the homeowner/newbie firing up the new Dolmar 5100 and trying to cut some limbs or whatever with that stock chain and getting frustrated that their new, latest, greatest saw can't cut worth beans and so they start bearing down on the handles with a lot of weight. Soon, someone is bound to slip and kill themselves that way.

Putting a slightly better (but not a full pro) chain on the saw from the get-go would produce a healthy dose of respect right from the first cut as the saw slices through the wood.

Bob
 

Latest posts

Back
Top