stihl 029 super

[Blairito]

I am in the process of rebuilding a 029 super, it had a leaky fuel line, I'm assuming thats why the piston was scored when i got it
i have ordered a farmertec 390 cylinder and piston, bearings, seals. should be here soon
when i took the crank out, one of the crank bearings came off fairly easily, It looks as if it may have spun on the crank itself, any suggestions without having to get a replacement crank?
one of the kevlar or plastic cages on the bearings had a crack in it. any suggestions?
loctite the bearing?, the bearing doesn't slip off by any means, it just came off easier than the other bearing, if i remember correctly it was the pto side

 

[fearofpavement]

Should be ok, may want to change that bearing as a new one may be tighter. I usually only put new bearings on if they are bad.
I heat the bearing up with a heat gun and they slide right on. When they cool, usually they're tightly in place. I've seen loose bearings before on this series saw.

 

[Stihlbillie]

As long as the crank journals arent heavily scored just put new ($20 ebay special) bearings in it and call it a day

 

[Stihlbillie]

Btw how do you figger that a leaky fuel line caused it to grenade?

 

[Blairito]

When I bought the saw the fuel line had holes in it and the piston was scored on the exhaust side
Not sure what the cause was
Assuming the fuel line hole caused a lean condition
Also the saw was without the pre filter and the baffle was set on winter setting
Either way I'm going to change all the lines and seals and bearings

 

[ssm1699]

These are the bearings I ordered for my 029 Super when I did the same rebuild. My bearings weren't bad, but I figured why not change them while I am already in it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-seale...C3-USA-ship-/331492635893?hash=item4d2e8034f5

 

[Blairito]

I ordered my parts from arbortec.net
Any problem with farmertec bearings and seals?
Thanks for everyone's replies

 

[ssm1699]

The only farmertec bearing that I am running is the wrist pin bearing and my saw has been just fine with it. I am running the farmertec seals and they have been tight, with no leaks.

 

[astnmacgto]

I find that if you put the crank in the freezer to get nice and cold and then put your bearings in a deep fryer and cook them until they get to about 400° then the bearings will usually fall on or at least go on super easy, thas what I do when rebuilding differentials

 

[Country bumpkin]

Yep having crank cold & bearings hot works great. I use a toaster oven for my bearings. Haven't had any issues with farmetec seals on 170's thru 251's.

 

[Blairito]

Are there any parts I should be wary of?
Like the farmertec piston circlips or rings?

 

[Country bumpkin]

Use your stihl piston circlips. Some people have had issues with the others coming out & killin a cylinder.

 

[Karla]

My last rebuild was a Stihl 029, which is still fairly fresh in my mind so If you need any help just give me a shout.

Oh, I used " SKF 6203 C3" bearings which have metal retainers in the bearing ( They are the exact and correct size), and actually were very reasonable compared to the OEM part number. In-addition when I removed the old bearings, the plastic retainer melted out of the bearing so I was Not too impressed with the original OEM bearings which were outsourced by Stihl to the country of Hungry. Lol.

Also sort of the same question as "Stihlbillie", not sure the fuel line caused the problem, I would probably suspect an air leak, especially since you stated that bearing was moving around its possible the seal was moving and leaking too. I would definitely recommend for a good rebuild, replace the bearings and the seals with new ones. Did you do a pressure/vac. test on the engine before dissassembly ?

Oh fuel line problem, I found the fuel line OEM molded line would seem to colapse and pinch itself behind the carburetor very easily, and you can't see what the fuel line is doing when you push the carburetor back into place. I ended up replacing the fuel line with a new OEM fuel line, and then also Installed a 2"x 1/8" OD spring on the inside of the fuel line, the spring will stop the fuel line from collapsing and getting pinched behind the carburetor, (JUST FYI ) incase you run into the same problem. The symptom was the engine would start but not run with a pinched fuel line, Lol & a difficult one to find this problem.

 

[Blairito]

when i bought the saw it was doing the same thing, starting on choke then stalling, after i saw it had a hole in the fuel line, and the piston was scored, I tore it down before trying anything else,I just got my parts tonight, bearings, seals, pre filter, ,49mm cylinder, piston, and wrist pin bearing, new bar stud, K10 hd carb kit,gas line, reflex line and oil line, I decided to keep the oem oil line, i ended up smearing a dab of motoseal on the grommet part of the oil line and fuel line before install, it will dry tonight. i put on the new bearings after putting the crank in the freezer and heating the bearings with a blowdryer, ,i was going to install the piston on the crank but i was skeptical of the circlips.
I just used a dab of moto seal when installing the compression release block off plug
do i need to apply anything to the inside of the new crank seals, i was planning smearing a bit of moto seal on the outsides, possibly synthetic brakes part grease on the inner lips of the seal?
the farmertec cylinder looks pretty fair, any things i should look out for? there seems to be a dull area in the plating where the cylinder wall meets transfer port.source for concern?

 

[Blairito]

i did not pressure test it, i do not have the means.
i am probably going to see if my dealer has some cir lips in stock.

 

[Karla]

When you get the bearings, check if they are steel retainers inside the bearings, If they are Not or even If they are I would probably only heat the bearings to about 200 degrees F.

When I put the crankshaft in the freezer, and heated the bearings to 200 degrees F. The bearings slipped on very easily, so I 'm sure you won't have a problem there.

But if the Bearing retainers are not a shiny metal then they could be this plastic composite or whatever that stuff is made of, and may melt out of the bearings. My Old retainers for the bearings I threw out had kind of a brownish color to them, and I was amazed at how easily they melted. The new bearings were all metal including the bearing retainers, so it was not a problem.

The other stuff, prep for seals etc, all sounds good so you should be good. Use the Moto seal very sparingly do not put too much on, just a little is plenty. It will squeeze out and you don't need any excess inside the engine. Also If this is your first engine re-build then take your time, Don't rush and try to get it all done in a hurry. Give the Moto Seal time to cure, etc. etc, Taking your time not to forget an important step.

Good Luck, and I'm sure you really won't have a problem.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yep having crank cold & bearings hot works great. I use a toaster oven for my bearings. Haven't had any issues with farmetec seals on 170's thru 251's.

Believe it or not a light bulb next to the bearing is all the heat it needs, along with freezing the crankshaft.

 

[Karla]

Blairito,

See attached file picture, copied from Model 029 OM manual.

On the Model 029 that I overhauled the owner had the winter/ summer cover incorrectly installed, so when your all done rebuilding, check that the summer/ winter cover is installed correctly.

When I tried to figure out how to install this "L" shaped cover, it looked like the diagram in the picture but something was definitely wrong and would not work as described in the owners manual. The "L" shaped cover with a sun symbol on one side (summer use) and a snow flake on the other side (Winter use), the owner had the "L" facing towards the air filter, this is wrong. This prefilter with plastic screen hanging over the air filter would do absolutely nothing, However If you tried to turn it around (180 degrees) the "L" shape piece will not allow the top cover to go back on the chainsaw. This was a factory mistake and plastic molding problem. The Original owner, never knew there was a summer/ winter cover, and also never knew it was incorrectly installed, and the Stihl factory probably never knew of the mistake either, but Not sure How many Stihl 029's were made incorrectly this way.

So here is the fix which is very simple, I wish I had taken a photograph of my friends chainsaw after I reversed the winter/ summer cover and made the fix because the picture makes so much more sense. Any how, turn the Winter/ summer cover around 180 degrees, so that the "L" is pointing toward the spark plug, it does not matter which side is facing up winter or summer, but obviously in the winter the snow flake is up, and in the summer the sun symbol is up. Next see if your top cover will fit onto the saw correctly or if it is now hitting the winter/summer cover. If it fits correctly than you don't have a problem on your Model 029, but If the top cover hits then remove the top cover and look at how the winter/ summer cover fits down onto the inner housing and you will see that it hits an orange column of plastic, on each side, if you nip away this orange column of plastic equal distant on each side, ( I used my dremel tool but a razor knife would work too) and remove the small 1/8' diameter column of plastic, just a 1/4" or so deep. The winter/ summer cover will now press down flush into this recess, and is now installed the way it really is suppose to be.

I know this sounds a little confusing, and its hard to believe that Stihl didn't realize this mistake but then my friend that owned the chainsaw didn't realize there was even a winter summer cover in his chain saw. Lol, If my description still doesn't help, I may be able to get to my friends home sometime and take a few pictures, and you will see exactly what I'm talking about.

 

[Karla]

Blairito,

One other thought which may be easier than me getting to my friends home to take pictures. When your all done rebuilding your chainsaw, take a picture of your Winter/ summer prefilter cover installed on your chainsaw and post it here, and I will be able to look at yours and see If it is installed correctly ? I am also curious how many Model 029 chainsaws were made this way ? but I will probably never know the answer, anyhow its an easy fix, and will make so much more sense when its installed the correct way of how it acts as a prefilter, and also as a winter/ summer cover.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have three of those saws and checked them and they were all in winter mode with the screen part hanging over the filter. I haven't used any of them for a long time so I don't guess it matters what mode they're in.