stihl 031av electronic ignition conversion ?

[Zark]

I wired in a chip to an old 031. New carb, boot, impulse line fuel lines. Starts, idles fine, but doesn't rev like a Stihl. A couple of questions before I pull the flywheel off.
1. Would replacing the coil with an electronic coil also adjust the timing?
2. Do I have to cut a new key channel in the flywheel, 3/4" counter-clockwise? Is there a YouTube of somebody doing this?
3. IF I did cut a key channel, would it throw off the balance of the flywheel? They spin at 8-10,000 RPM.
4. Would replacing the points flywheel with electronic solve this? Are they interchangeable?
5. Is there another brand/model/source of chip that solves this whole problem?
I can probably just run it as is, in the de-tuned mode. I'm not bushelling with it
Thanks in advance,
-gf-

 

[captain dangers]

I wired in a chip to an old 031. New carb, boot, impulse line fuel lines. Starts, idles fine, but doesn't rev like a Stihl. A couple of questions before I pull the flywheel off.
1. Would replacing the coil with an electronic coil also adjust the timing?
2. Do I have to cut a new key channel in the flywheel, 3/4" counter-clockwise? Is there a YouTube of somebody doing this?
3. IF I did cut a key channel, would it throw off the balance of the flywheel? They spin at 8-10,000 RPM.
4. Would replacing the points flywheel with electronic solve this? Are they interchangeable?
5. Is there another brand/model/source of chip that solves this whole problem?
I can probably just run it as is, in the de-tuned mode. I'm not bushelling with it
Thanks in advance,
-gf-

if you have fitted a self grounding chip like the one I fitted all you will need to do is remove the key al together and spin the flywheel 3/4 inch (outer radius of the flywheel) counter clockwise tighten up the flywheel. the woodruff key is only there as a locator , its the taper of the shaft which locks the flywheel to the crank. I'm unsure about the other questions you have as this is the only 031 I have converted. CD

 

[Zark]

if you have fitted a self grounding chip like the one I fitted all you will need to do is remove the key al together and spin the flywheel 3/4 inch (outer radius of the flywheel) counter clockwise tighten up the flywheel. the woodruff key is only there as a locator , its the taper of the shaft which locks the flywheel to the crank. I'm unsure about the other questions you have as this is the only 031 I have converted. CD

Thanks, That helps!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks, That helps!

I think you could use a flywheel from an electronic ignition 031, I think they have the key in a different place from the points flywheel. You can tell them apart because the electronic flywheel has a symbol of a transistor in a circle on it.

 

[hotshot]

I think you could use a flywheel from an electronic ignition 031, I think they have the key in a different place from the points flywheel. You can tell them apart because the electronic flywheel has a symbol of a transistor in a circle on it.

Yep, that’s the proper way to do it, or put points back in it with a Wima condenser mounted externally.

They throw lightning bolts for spark when set up correctly, consistently start up warm with half a pull.

And don’t run that saw with the timing retarded like it is, the muffler will glow cherry red & you will soon ruin the top end.

 

[user 167698]

If my Stihl 031AV says "ELECTRONIC" on the top of the saw, does it already have an ignition chip in it? or does it use points and condenser like old school engines? I'm trying to buy the parts before I tear it apart.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If my Stihl 031AV says "ELECTRONIC" on the top of the saw, does it already have an ignition chip in it? or does it use points and condenser like old school engines? I'm trying to buy the parts before I tear it apart.

Not necessarily. On a saw that old it could have been tampered with many times. The only way to tell for sure is tear it down and look..

 

[user 167698]

i bought it new in 1980. its never been taken apart (yet). it will make a nice christmas project.

 

[Snowchaser]

If it says electronic and you are the original owner, then it will not have points or a condenser. It will have a chip in it. Cant remember if the chip is under the flywheel or next to the coil. Had a couple rubbed through wires on my 031ave, but never had any issues with the chip yet. Converted a couple points models over to electronic though. Shifted timing about 3/4” on the outside of the flywheel like a. Palmer said earlier in this thread. Great saws. Mine was my parents neighbors new and ive had it now for 12+ years.

 

[user 167698]

Not necessarily. On a saw that old it could have been tampered with many times. The only way to tell for sure is tear it down and look..

I am the original owner. I bought it in 1981, brand new and then abused the hell out of it for the next 39 years. I never even changed the spark plug. I replaced the bar 6 times as I used it on roots and rocks and anything else that got in the way. Last week was the first time I ever did any real maintenance on it and I just tore it apart on the bench. The sprocket is hosed so i bought a new one. I also bought a new filter and carburator. I attached a picture on here somewhere.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Looks like it was electronic to start with. First thing I'd do is inspect the kill switch and wire, make sure they're not shorted to any metal surrounding it. If that's okay then you can check the coil to make sure it's good, I use an ohm meter, measuring primary and secondary to ground. I never changed an electronic ignition to a chip, just points to chip so I guess just follow the directions that came with the chip using the same flywheel. You don't need to put the chip under the flywheel, I generall put the chip inside the air box by the carburetor and drill a hole for the wires to run through. It's perfectly okay to put the chip where the other electronic ignition stuff was if you prefer. No need to adjust the flywheel timing on this one since it has the right flywheel.

 

[user 167698]

Looks like it was electronic to start with. First thing I'd do is inspect the kill switch and wire, make sure they're not shorted to any metal surrounding it. If that's okay then you can check the coil to make sure it's good, I use an ohm meter, measuring primary and secondary to ground. I never changed an electronic ignition to a chip, just points to chip so I guess just follow the directions that came with the chip using the same flywheel. You don't need to put the chip under the flywheel, I generall put the chip inside the air box by the carburetor and drill a hole for the wires to run through. It's perfectly okay to put the chip where the other electronic ignition stuff was if you prefer. No need to adjust the flywheel timing on this one since it has the right flywheel.

would you recomend pulling flywheel key and rotating counterclockwise 3/4" on the outer diameter if I put a new chip in there?

 

[Snowchaser]

Rotating the flywheel is only needed on points saws. You should be good to go

 

[user 167698]

Rotating the flywheel is only needed on points saws. You should be good to go

Thank you!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

would you recomend pulling flywheel key and rotating counterclockwise 3/4" on the outer diameter if I put a new chip in there?

No, it already has the electronic ignition flywheel, the advance is built in...

 

[user 167698]

No, it already has the electronic ignition flywheel, the advance is built in...

Thank you, sir!

 

[J Williams]

what you need to do is pull your flywheel off, remove the key and rotate the fly wheel approx. 3/4 inch counter clockwise on the external circumference, as that's exactly what I had to do in this post . they will be nothing wrong with your carb, but the electronic chip throws the timing out, which is why you need to advance the flywheel to compensate. CD

Thank you captain, that tip made ALL the difference, after I changed the timing, the power was back!