Stihl 036 pro

[s4fitz]

Hello everyone my name is John, i am new to the site here and this is my first post. One of my customers gave me a stihl 036 pro with a scored piston. I have yet to disassemble the the saw and see exactly how bad its scored. what i am asking here is what rebuild kit do you recommend? the saw is in excellent shape and would love to ad to my fleet (ms192tc, ms290 and 562xp)

One more question. I am looking for a 24 inch bar and chain combo for the 562xp curious to see what people are running out there.

Thank you
John

 

[Stihl Livin]

Welcome to AS hope the cad holds off for a little while for you. You are really going to enjoy following your post as many members here love to rant about there brands and set ups. IMHO I would either go with an oem p&c or a baileys bb kit to repair the saw. Also you could send it to one of the many respected builders and have them do a port job why they rebuild it too.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

Figure out why she toasted first tho... or you'll be buying 2 repair kits.

Welcome to the fun show

 

[Stihlalltheway]

A while back I saw a thread about an 038 magnum top end on an 036. That'd be cool.

 

[50blues]

Do a vacumn or pressure test to see if the seals are good. Then take off the jug and see how bad it is. If its not scratched the aluminum transfer on the cylinder can be cleaned off with muratic acid and a little scotch bright. Then all you will need is a good piston, ring kit, and what ever lines and seals you need.

Good luck

 

[s4fitz]

I just had the saw pressure tested and he said the pressure was around 100, he deffinatly said that the rings on the piston were done. the saw started and revved up but would not idle. Also the fuel line looks brand new which is leading me to believe that the saw was leaned out. i am going to take the jug off tonight and snap some pictures and post them up.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I just had the saw pressure tested and he said the pressure was around 100

:bang:

 

[nmurph]

:bang:

:computer2:

Maybe the OP got the number wrong or the dealer gave him the numbers wrong. 8psi held for 20 seconds is the service manual spec for pressure, and no more than 3psi rise from 8psi to 5psi of vacuum in less than 20 seconds.

 

[pioneerguy600]

:computer2:

Maybe the OP got the number wrong or the dealer gave him the numbers wrong. 8psi held for 20 seconds is the service manual spec for pressure, and no more than 3psi rise from 8psi to 5psi of vacuum in less than 20 seconds.

100 lbs comp, not pressure....LOL

 

[nmurph]

100 lbs comp, not pressure....LOL

Makes sense.

 

[Man of $tihl]

Welcome to AS hope the cad holds off for a little while for you. You are really going to enjoy following your post as many members here love to rant about there brands and set ups. IMHO I would either go with an oem p&c or a baileys bb kit to repair the saw. Also you could send it to one of the many respected builders and have them do a port job why they rebuild it too.

BB kit for a 036??

 

[s4fitz]

Sorry i am new the working on saws. He hooked up the the gage to where the spark plug goes and pulled it about 5 times and said its bout 100 psi. i am assuming that is a pressure test? Also would the torn fuel line cause it to lean out and score the piston?

 

[indiansprings]

No that is a compression test. A pressure and vaccum test is where you seal off the intake and exhaust and add pressure thru the sparkplug hole with an adapter or at a dealership we have different adapters to go in place of the carb to induce pressure and vaccum, it will tell you if you have a bad intake boot, impulse line, or if the saw is leaking at the cylinder base, or at the crank bearings. You would be wise to have you dealer to pressure and vac test the saw if you don't have the equipment. Do a search for pressure and vac testing. I replaced a 036 jug and slug last week, if I remember correctly oem runs 289.00 might be off a few bucks, if it were mine, prolly go the metor brand to save some bucks or find a good used oem.

Find out the reason why it toasted or you'll just be doing it twice, like a wise man already posted.

 

[nmurph]

Sorry i am new the working on saws. He hooked up the the gage to where the spark plug goes and pulled it about 5 times and said its bout 100 psi. i am assuming that is a pressure test? Also would the torn fuel line cause it to lean out and score the piston?

5 pulls and 100 psi don't necessarily mean the rings are shot. The ferve with which the rope is pulled can have a big impact on how many times the motor turns over. To get an accurate test it needs to be pulled until it stops climbing. I would be happy with anything over 150psi.
A saw can also still have good compression and be scored. As long as the rings haven't been damaged, they will still seal well enough to give a good reading.

Yes, a torn fuel line can lead to a toasted cylinder.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I think you need to check all of your lines for holes or tears. (fuel, impulse, intake boot), then have the saw pressure and vacuum tested like already mentioned. Several things can cause your engine to go too lean (bad seals, base gasket, hole in fuel or impulse line, etc.)
I like the OEM cylinders but some aftermarket kits are okay. But like another guy said, your cylinder may still be good. May just need rings or a piston. Get those pics up when you can and we can tell more about it.

 

[Rokon]

The 036 is a very good saw. Do some reading on this site and you'll have your new saw up and running in no time. :msp_thumbup:

Bailey's has the bar you need for the Husqvarna.

 

[watsonr]

Find a good condition OEM cylinder or put a Meteor kit in it. Great saw and worth saving.

 

[nstueve]

Ok what most might have glazed over.

1.) use muriatic acid (hardware store $6 for 1gal) on the cylinder walls to melt any aluminum transfer the piston might have left on the chrome plating. A hot-strip/heat gun will speed the process and make sure you're well ventilated when you do this.
2.) Once transfer is removed: if you find holes through the chrome plating replace piston and cylinder with OEM or AM kit
3.) If your cylinder cleans up good: replace the piston with something quality (meteor, episan, vec, OR OEM) Chainsaw Parts
4.) if you don't have a mity vac or equivilent to check your crank case pressure (as recomended above) replace the oil seals, gas & impulse lines and you should be fine. a complete seals and gasket kit is only $10-$15 (northwoodsaw again)
5.) I also recommend replacing the fuel filter and checking your worm gear on the oiler.


As for a bar... You really do get what you pay for so it depends on if it's going to be a regular work horse or an occasional user saw. I personally have been using the total super bars and I love them. they wear really well and aren't terrible in price and they look cool to boot! The Total and Stihl 24in bars are probably about the same on price at about $70. I would make sure to get a pro replaceable tip bar. The best bars out there right now are... In the order I would rate them in...
1.) Sugi Hara
2.) Total Super Bar: jonsered or husky dealer, or look for a tilton dealer here Tilton Equipment :: Total and Tecomec
3.) stihl OEM bar
4.) Oregon Pro bar (bailey's online or ebay)
5.) Windsor Pro

 

[watsonr]

Ok what most might have glazed over.

1.) use muriatic acid (hardware store $6 for 1gal) on the cylinder walls to melt any aluminum transfer the piston might have left on the chrome plating. A hot-strip/heat gun will speed the process and make sure you're well ventilated when you do this.
2.) Once transfer is removed: if you find holes through the chrome plating replace piston and cylinder with OEM or AM kit
3.) If your cylinder cleans up good: replace the piston with something quality (meteor, episan, vec, OR OEM) Chainsaw Parts
4.) if you don't have a mity vac or equivilent to check your crank case pressure (as recomended above) replace the oil seals, gas & impulse lines and you should be fine. a complete seals and gasket kit is only $10-$15 (northwoodsaw again)
5.) I also recommend replacing the fuel filter and checking your worm gear on the oiler.


As for a bar... You really do get what you pay for so it depends on if it's going to be a regular work horse or an occasional user saw. I personally have been using the total super bars and I love them. they wear really well and aren't terrible in price and they look cool to boot! The Total and Stihl 24in bars are probably about the same on price at about $70. I would make sure to get a pro replaceable tip bar. The best bars out there right now are... In the order I would rate them in...
1.) Sugi Hara
2.) Total Super Bar: jonsered or husky dealer, or look for a tilton dealer here Tilton Equipment :: Total and Tecomec
3.) stihl OEM bar
4.) Oregon Pro bar (bailey's online or ebay)
5.) Windsor Pro

Good info right there. I carry that gasket/seal kit for $12.60

 

[s4fitz]

Thank You

To everyone who responded THANK YOU!! This is the info i was looking for. As for the bar for my husky i ordered a 24 inch powermatch oregon bar with two chains for $90!!

Since it is snowing here in NY my fall clean ups are going to have to wait so i am about to dig into the saw after lunch. I will post up pictures once i am done. Randy i am going to pm you once i know what i need. Thanks again to all this forum is great!