ktm1217
Kyle
@lone wolf you got that right! Those 200t's are so overpriced. I'd love to get one but everyone wants an arm and a leg for them since they're such sought after saws.
Could be a problem with that carb, 1 out on stock OEM should work and be close. Is it an OEM carb or aftermarket cause they vary on how many turns out?Now; who can give me tips on tuning this thing? The carburetor seems so sensitive. It seems that when it's idling OK, the high speed needle is bottomed out and only produces 11,500+/- rpm. I tried starting it out multiple times preset 1 turn out and each needle, but can't seem to get it right. It's got a dual port muffler on it.
There it is!ahem....
Aftermarket can vary greatly how many turns out on the jets for the proper setting. Start fooling with the low and see if you can get it to hold idle a few minutes.Thanks Wood Doctor! And @lone wolf - you think it's the carb? It is an aftermarket one. I was thinking it's something with the way I'm adjusting it with the dual port muffler on it. I went 1 turn out on the high and low sides. The low side was then close, but sometimes would be idle good and then drop down to the point of almost stalling. And then the high end was only making 11,500 or so rpm's, and the H screw was about bottomed out.
I just put an aftermarket carb on an ms290 that I also rebuilt and opened up the muffler on and it fired right up. Tachs right out to spec and everything.
That's why I don't really think it's the carb on this. Maybe I'll try the other one I have that came on it and see if it makes a difference. Been busy lately with the snow here in PA but I'll have to find some time to mess with it!
I have run into yet another problem with that switch rod on an 066. Sometimes the fast idle is never set after releasing the choke. Instead, it drops all the way down to low idle. Saws in general like to start on fast idle and if that drops down to low idle, you will also have severe starting problems. Not the case here but be on the lookout.
I posted a solution to this a year or so ago. There is a way to shim the left side of the switch rod about 1/8" back toward the trigger so that is will not drop out of fast idle when switched off choke:I had an MS660 that did that. I replaced the linkage and it still did it. Replaced the control switch, still did it. Carb, still did it. I sold it that way cheap with the disclaimer that it was harder than it should be to start having no fast idle.
Then I got an 066 that was the same way. Replaced the trigger and cured it. Both were very high hour saws. So, I am thinking you can eventually wear the trigger down to where it does not hold the fast idle
Put a short piece of fuel line on carb and blow into it and suck from it. If it lets you blow or suck the needle is not doing its job. Excess fuel like that is because it's freely flowing in and fouling plugs. Never has a chance to fire from massive flooding. Make sure your pulse line is also pulsing from crankcase. You might have 2 issues. Needle is not doing its job and no pulse to pump the fuel like it should.Pulled the carb apart. The needle is moving as it should; I adjusted the arm down a hair. Pulled the saw over 15-20 times to get all of the fuel out. There was a light mist of fuel that came out of the impulse line, so I guess that's working as it should. Tried another spark plug.
Fired up on the first pull for maybe 3 seconds and then died. Wouldn't restart, and had fuel coming out of the muffler again.
I have an inline spark tester, so I was able to leave the plug in so that it's under compression, and it still produces good hot spark. I got an extra AM carb when I bought it, plus the one that was on the saw, and now have a third one that I ordered myself. I haven't had any problems with the aftermarket carbs, and all looks well inside of the newest one that's on the saw now.
064 is much lighter and more powerful and better looking and worth more than a 650.I just bought an 064 on line and for a reasonable price. Looks to be in good condition. These big saws are worth fixing, believe me. I've been looking for a back up saw to my MS660 Mag. The 064 is about the same as an MS650 with flat top plastic and a few years older. I have a feeling that you and I now have two really nice strong saws -- not new but good to go. Cheers!
Glad to hear that. I have run both a 650 and a 660. The 064 I bought looks to be in great shape and well taken care of. About all it lacks is a decomp valve, so I may have to build up some muscle to start it. I think the displacement is identical to the MS 650. If for some reason it's too much saw for me to handle, I have at least two potential local buyers licking their chops for it. Both guys are strong as apes.064 is much lighter and more powerful and better looking and worth more than a 650.
All though a 650 is a fine saw
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