STIHL 075AV or 076AV

[StihlNAlberta]

Been looking for feedback on the two saws listed. 075 or 076.

I know these two are very close to the same saw, asides from the location of the oil filler reservoir (075 on top/076 on side), and the 076 "super" i think has a different air filter intake housing. I understand that maybe the 075 has the older point style ignition where the 076 has updated the ignition to get rid of the points?

Saw will be used mostly for milling on a 36" Alaskan Mill. The one I have has around 120 PSI compression but runs good. Thinking maybe a set of OEM rings as the cylinder looks good ($52.00 ouch). I have searched on here for compression specs. but am having a hard time finding the answer. I gather it should be @ 140.00+. Then there are comments about some saws building compression under load with the rings tightening up, and other older saws just run ok at lower compression (under 130).

I have checked EBAY and the likes of for a top end (P&C, rings, wrist pin, bearings) and can get one for around $150.00 v.s. $400.00++ for OEM Stihl. The two I am looking at are ...... (not too sure if I can list aftermarket suppliers on here). I think they are both manufactured in Tawain which is a bit of a shame to put that on a Stihl. Anyone had any experience with these saws and the "Quality Aftermarket" top ends available?

If you had to choose, would the 076 be the choice due to the updated coil/ignition?

CHEERS!!

:msp_confused:

 

[bullseye13]

The newer 075 saws have a trigger under the flywheel like the 076 saws. I wouldnt be too quick on replacing the rings....bolt it on your mill and see how it does. If you listen enouh around here a top end with over 10 hours on it is shot and you need a rebuild. Hahaha. If it starts reliably just use it. Or if you want... rings are $20 ea from stihl or cheaper aftermarket. But that whole darn saw has to ckme apart to do it.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I agree with the run it if it runs OK. Not, so much that 120 PSI is good as compression testers give notoriously unreliable readings.

 

[StihlNAlberta]

The newer 075 saws have a trigger under the flywheel like the 076 saws. I wouldnt be too quick on replacing the rings....bolt it on your mill and see how it does. If you listen enouh around here a top end with over 10 hours on it is shot and you need a rebuild. Hahaha. If it starts reliably just use it. Or if you want... rings are $20 ea from stihl or cheaper aftermarket. But that whole darn saw has to ckme apart to do it.

10 hours? OMG!! That would get costly.

Haven't picked up the saw yet but will give it a try first before i do anything. The fellow I bought it off said it runs good, but ya never know. His idea of running "good" may be different than mine.

I was pretty interested in finding out if anyone has had experience withe the HL Supply top end replacement or the MB aftermarket P&C. I can pick one up for pretty cheap on e-bay. Unfortunately pretty cheap sometimes don't last and you are left further behind than when you started and out 150.00 which you could have put towards the OEM goods.

Also - what is a switch? Do you mean condenser? So do both the 075 and 076 have points?

THX!

 

[bullseye13]

The 076 never had points. Only early 075's did until they went to some hokey module under the flywheel which is good for hard starting issues when they are on there way out. Id say most 075's dont have points. I dont have a good way to tell you what to look for without pulling flywheel. But....whats it matter if it has points? I have some VERY reliable engines with points that fire on the first yank. I am very well aquainted with all types of ignitions....wouldnt opt for points in a race but for milling.....?? Sure why not. But hats just me.

If you replace that cylinder you can ship it to me. im not a big fan of supporting the chinese manufacture stuff.

 

[StihlNAlberta]

The 076 never had points. Only early 075's did until they went to some hokey module under the flywheel which is good for hard starting issues when they are on there way out. Id say most 075's dont have points. I dont have a good way to tell you what to look for without pulling flywheel. But....whats it matter if it has points? I have some VERY reliable engines with points that fire on the first yank. I am very well aquainted with all types of ignitions....wouldnt opt for points in a race but for milling.....?? Sure why not. But hats just me.

If you replace that cylinder you can ship it to me. im not a big fan of supporting the chinese manufacture stuff.

Yeah me neither. When I asked the guy where it was manufactured he told me: Italy, Japan, Canada and the USA. Not too sure what part where, but there was only a piston, cylinder, wrist pin and a $1.00 base gasket. Hmmm.??

Got no problem with points either. I have worked on a few of the older MACS that work great on the points and condenser.

Do the Stihls have a flywheel key or do you need to re-set timing each time you pull the flywheel?

 

[homelitejim]

Don't expect to be WOWed. I know they are 111 cc most just don't cut like it, I guess a mill would be about the best place for it as you would not want to fell or buck timber with it. I have seen 1 076 that seemed to have some power, a member here owns it and in the video it looks like it will pull some chain, just not the case with the few that I have personally run.

 

[sawfun9]

+1

The 076 super I had was in great running shape but had less bucking power than my 066. A mill where you feed it VERY SLOWLY is, as has been said, the best use for it.

 

[MPE]

The early 075 I owned pulled a lot harder than my 076 Super ever did, and both out cut my 066 flat top with a long bar.. These saws are not meant for cookie cutting or <36" bars. Slap a 24" bar on an 075, 066, and 7900 and bury the bar in something, and the 075 comes in last. A 41", 50", or 60" bar for the same test, you'll get a different result.

 

[RandyMac]

The early 075 I owned pulled a lot harder than my 076 Super ever did, and both out cut my 066 flat top with a long bar.. These saws are not meant for cookie cutting or <36" bars. Slap a 24" bar on an 075, 066, and 7900 and bury the bar in something, and the 075 comes in last. A 41", 50", or 60" bar for the same test, you'll get a different result.

I thought that was going to be true when I bought one, sadly it wasn't the case and I ditched it.

 

[sawfun9]

Well the 076 super I had didn't cut cookies. I tried a 42" then a 36" bar and cut for cut the 066 with a 36" bar buried in maple was much stronger. I thought the super would be the best of this type of saw. I never ran a 075, wouldn't think it could be that much better but maybe.

 

[RandyMac]

Well the 076 super I had didn't cut cookies. I tried a 42" then a 36" bar and cut for cut the 066 with a 36" bar buried in maple was much stronger. I thought the super would be the best of this type of saw. I never ran a 075, wouldn't think it could be that much better but maybe.

oinkers

 

[sawfun9]

Weight of an elephant speed of a sloth. And I like Stihl's but that model doesn't seem to impress for whatever reason.

I don't know if it's porting or what but a Jonny 111, Homelite 750, Mac 125, Husky 2100, Would smoke it while weighing the same. If I have to have a 20+ pound saw it better have some gut's.

 

[RandyMac]

I had a Jonny 111S in my grubby mitts for awhile, my ears said it was a Homelite. It was a strong running saw, good balance too.

 

[sawfun9]

Those 111's are very, very pleasent saws to run. Start out at a low 6000 rpm and just seem to stay there. On the other hand the homelite 750 and Stihl 088 start at over twice the rpm but give up more than half of it and the Jonny's torque just keeps on truckin.