Stihl 460 troubles

[bobbyg]

Hey everyone I just happened to find this forum when I did a search on my Stihl 460, I was wondering if anyone else is having problems with their chain/bar getting enough oil. My saw has been back 3 times so far and is currently being fixed again. I am only getting about 1/2 or less a tank of bar oil used to a full tank of gas. I would prefer the oil being almost empty the same time the gas tank is.

I just recently bought a 460 and 660 last year and the 460 has yet to impress me compared to my Husky 372XP. I almost wish I had bought a 385 Husky over the 460 after running this saw and having nothing but trouble with the oil flow of this saw. My dealer has told me their is nothing he can do about it and I am almost ready to tell him I have a solution( Buy a Husqvarna )

I wish the dealers that handle these saws would just modify them from the start, when I bought them he told me they have no warranty after 90 days. So I told him then why don't you just mod the saw and make it run right?

 

[Lakeside53]

The 460 puts out about the same oil as the 310, 390, and 440 - about 17cc/min at 10,000 rpm. The 460R (wrap) has a pump that will deliver around 24cc/min - Stihl's reasoning is that the R is mainly a West Coat saw uses longer bars in softwood. The 660 only puts out 21...

If you are seeing burnt bars, there a problem.. If not, it's likely working just fine. The Stihl bar/chain system works well at retaining the oil. If you're not using stihl chain there might be some reduction in oiling efficiency but most I see are working fine.

Best way to see if the pump is "faulty" is to measure how much oil the pump is putting out. Without a bar/chain, hold the saw on it's side over a dish or whatever and run it at high idle for a minute. If it running at say 7K... then you should have 7/10 of 17cc.... heat the dish to make the oil runny, then measure in a cc graduated cup.


Make sure your oil check valve is working ...

 

[harrygrey382]

The 460 puts out about the same oil as the 310, 390, and 440 - about 17cc/min at 10,000 rpm. The 460R (wrap) has a pump that will deliver around 24cc/min - Stihl's reasoning is that the R is mainly a West Coat saw uses longer bars in softwood. The 660 only puts out 21...

If you are seeing burnt bars, there a problem.. If not, it's likely working just fine. The Stihl bar/chain system works well at retaining the oil. If you're not using stihl chain there might be some reduction in oiling efficiency but most I see are working fine.

Best way to see if the pump is "faulty" is to measure how much oil the pump is putting out. Without a bar/chain, hold the saw on it's side over a dish or whatever and run it at high idle for a minute. If it running at say 7K... then you should have 7/10 of 17cc.... heat the dish to make the oil runny, then measure in a cc graduated cup.


Make sure your oil check valve is working ...

hey that's a good idea, better than any others I've heard... But what if you don't have a tach (don't know RPMs), surely that'll be a big factor in how much oil it puts out?

 

[Lakeside53]

no tach? well.... then I just look at them and see how much flows... but I've seen many...

 

[bobbyg]

The 460 puts out about the same oil as the 310, 390, and 440 - about 17cc/min at 10,000 rpm. The 460R (wrap) has a pump that will deliver around 24cc/min - Stihl's reasoning is that the R is mainly a West Coat saw uses longer bars in softwood. The 660 only puts out 21...

If you are seeing burnt bars, there a problem.. If not, it's likely working just fine. The Stihl bar/chain system works well at retaining the oil. If you're not using stihl chain there might be some reduction in oiling efficiency but most I see are working fine.

Best way to see if the pump is "faulty" is to measure how much oil the pump is putting out. Without a bar/chain, hold the saw on it's side over a dish or whatever and run it at high idle for a minute. If it running at say 7K... then you should have 7/10 of 17cc.... heat the dish to make the oil runny, then measure in a cc graduated cup.


Make sure your oil check valve is working ...

The is saw is stock and has a 20 inch bar on it, and also the bar is burnt. The flow control under the saw is a joke the wide open setting isnt enough what the heck is the low setting like?

 

[harrygrey382]

no tach? well.... then I just look at them and see how much flows... but I've seen many...

hmm, ok, kinda what I've been doing... or exactly what I've been doing - was only for interest's sake don't think there's aproblem

The is saw is stock and has a 20 inch bar on it, and also the bar is burnt. The flow control under the saw is a joke the wide open setting isnt enough what the heck is the low setting like?

lol, unlike yours... sounds like you need to give it some attention!

 

[Lakeside53]

The range is 6-17cc/minute.

20 inch bar and you're buring? Hmmmm... I never see that on a 20 inch bar... Most guys around here are running 32" on the 460 with no problems.


Measure the oil output, or have your dealer do it, and make sure your tank check valve is functioning.


There are heck of a lot of stock 310/390/039/044/046/440/460's out there with the same rated oil output as yours, and if they all burned on 20 inch bars, well...

if your dealer can't/wont fix it, have him call stihl with you to discuss the problem.

 

[bobbyg]

The range is 6-17cc/minute.

20 inch bar and you're buring? Hmmmm... I never see that on a 20 inch bar... Most guys around here are running 32" on the 460 with no problems.


Measure the oil output, or have your dealer do it, and make sure your tank check valve is functioning.


There are heck of a lot of stock 310/390/039/044/046/440/460's out there with the same rated oil output as yours, and if they all burned on 20 inch bars, well...

if your dealer can't/wont fix it, have him call stihl with you to discuss the problem.

I think that will be the next step, calling stihl and asking them why I can't get this resolved.

 

[Erick]

The range is 6-17cc/minute.

20 inch bar and you're buring? Hmmmm... I never see that on a 20 inch bar... Most guys around here are running 32" on the 460 with no problems.


Measure the oil output, or have your dealer do it, and make sure your tank check valve is functioning.


There are heck of a lot of stock 310/390/039/044/046/440/460's out there with the same rated oil output as yours, and if they all burned on 20 inch bars, well...

if your dealer can't/wont fix it, have him call stihl with you to discuss the problem.

+1

I will point out though that a 1/2 tank of oil in a 460 should be plenty of oil for a 20" bar. (although it should be able to use more for the longer bars)

No offence meant but...... are you really having a problem or do you just "think" it should oil more????

Can you post a pic of the burnt bar?? Is it really burning from a lack of lubrication or are you just seeing the "bluing" when the paint wears off from the rail hardening process???

Stihls oil system is designed to use less oil than other systems and doesn't require for it to sling oil everywhere to get proper lubrication. I run mine with a 32" bar sometimes and have no problems at all with the oiler putting out enough oil for it. I run the 28" bar pretty regular, same thing, plenty of oil.

A properly oiling MS460 will oil the H:censored:LL out of a 20" bar, if your truly having a problem with the bar burning I would wonder where the oil is going??? If it is broke and your dealer wont fix it I would say you need a new dealer, not a new saw.

 

[T Berry]

I agree with Erick, I only fill my oil 1/2 full adjuster set at mid point and I have never seen a burnt bar on my 440/25" and the chain is lubed nicely, my buds have 460's/25" with no issues. Actually if i run my adj'er full open it gets tooooo much oil in and around my drum and clutch. If you've had this saw back 3X for the same issue and you are burning bars I would change dealers, oiling sytems are not rocket science.

 

[Austin1]

This is getting interesting, I have a good friend with a 361 and I have a 2159.
We are both old school and are first impression of the new fangled saw's is they don't use at least 3/4 to 7/8 a tank of oil to a tank of fuel, But never had a problem with the bar getting hot running 18'' bars. But then I only cut soft wood I also use Canola oil,find it flows better when it's cold and I think it does a better job than standard bar oil.
See I turned this into a oil thread:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[bobbyg]

I wish I could take pictures but the saw is at the dealer. From the first day I had it never seemed to get enough oil. The first time I started using the saw, the paint cooked right off the bar all around the top about 3/8ths of the way down.
I never had a new bar loose the paint that fast without over heating.


thats when I brought it back and asked to check the oil pump and make sure its getting enough. My 660 with a 32 inch bar never showed any signs of low oil, it had the 25 inch stock bar and even that one was just fine.

 

[Patrick62]

My calculations

from the 17cc/min it would take 19 minutes to run the oil tank (325cc) dry.
It seems to me that it takes me a little longer to run a tank out. Maybe I am in error. No matter, I am with the "old school" theory that it doesn't oil enough.
However! In the last couple of years I have run the 460 it has done the job like a champ. 24" bar, and it isn't burned yet!

The only time I really complained about it is when I was blocking a green D. Fir. Then the sap wants to "glue" the chain to the bar. More oil would help flush the bar.

There is, somewhere, part #'s for a high capacity oiler (the 460 wrap?). It can be done, but why? What it has works.....

-Pat

 

[2FatGuys]

We run our 460 with a 20", 24" & 28" bar. We have never had any problems with lack of lubrication. I would check the bar to see if the oil journals are clogged. I know it's a basic thing and has probably been checked, but it's still worth checking...

 

[318firebug49]

Just a thought,

Check the oil journal/port on the bar and try a new chain. Only problem I have had in the past has been an improperly sharpened chain throwing small chips, would plug the oil port on the bar and well, the rest is history.

Ya know, every mechanical thing made, no matter what brand- has its lemons, you might have just been unlucky enough to get that lemon. Your dealer should make it right.... new saw- still under warranty?

 

[RiverRat2]

MS460 28"bar,,,,,,,bar stays wet with oil, westcoast wrap version oilpump,,,, no problemo!!!!!!!

 

[bobbyg]

maybe when I get the saw back I should change it out to a different Bar and chain, whats the best bar/chain I could put on the 460 in the 20,24 inch range.

 

[blsnelling]

Stihl bars are great.

 

[BaldSawRunner]

This is getting interesting, I have a good friend with a 361 and I have a 2159.
We are both old school and are first impression of the new fangled saw's is they don't use at least 3/4 to 7/8 a tank of oil to a tank of fuel, But never had a problem with the bar getting hot running 18'' bars. But then I only cut soft wood I also use Canola oil,find it flows better when it's cold and I think it does a better job than standard bar oil.
See I turned this into a oil thread:hmm3grin2orange:

You turned it into a 361 thread too :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[stihl 440]

460

The is saw is stock and has a 20 inch bar on it, and also the bar is burnt. The flow control under the saw is a joke the wide open setting isnt enough what the heck is the low setting like?

Burnt bar=super mega dull chain.............:greenchainsaw: