Ordered a new carb from feebay for 11 bucks and change. Hopefully that will do the trick.Accelerator pump is probably shot. Try a new carb.
Will it start again after quitting?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Compression is good. I will order the fitting I need for a vacuum test like you say a vacuum leak is what I suspect also. impulse line and carb boot are in good shape.The manual says if adjustment's don't fix then do a vacuum test,
My impression is it's not a carb issue . Accelerator pump will just sputter if bad. Bogs are usually a seal/bearing, or cylinder issue. Good hunting
This.Accelerator pump... if the pump piston cannot move freely any more to provide extra fuel during acceleration the engine will stall. Saws used with a faulty accelerator pump over an extended period of time tend to develop signs of (engine) seizure.
O
Ordered a new carb from feebay for 11 bucks and change. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Cheap clone carbs can be more trouble then they're worth. That being said, some of the original carbs on this model are infamous for the accelerator pump issue. Much was discussed in this thread but not everything suggested there was a good idea (blocking pump means temp lean condition). But it is an educational thread.
I've had one for several years. But mainly I am only an expert on what doesn't work.
Its not a clone carb its the same carb that on the saw a Zama.Cheap clone carbs can be more trouble then they're worth. That being said, some of the original carbs on this model are infamous for the accelerator pump issue. Much was discussed in this thread but not everything suggested there was a good idea (blocking pump means temp lean condition). But it is an educational thread.
I've had one for several years. But mainly I am only an expert on what doesn't work.
Yes.Possible engine air leak?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk
Enter your email address to join: