Stihl MS362 crank seal screwup

[T.Bird]

So here's the latest in my MS362 rebuild I've been working on really slowly and messing up a lot along the way. Thanks for being good sports and following along:

I finally got the case back together, the new piston in and the new cylinder on. I figured I'd end my evening at the bench by installing the new crank seals. Easy enough, right? Not if you're a moron!! I pushed (aka: tapped with a socket and hammer) the ignition side seal in way too far. It's just shy of being an 1/8'' deep past the face of the crankcase. Having never done it before, I was just so focused on carefully tapping it in evenly that I stupidly never even thought about when to stop! I guess in the back of my head I just sort of assumed it would bottom out on... ummmm... something... nope. Duh.

So... I suppose I now have to somehow pull the thing out (thereby probably destroying it and having to replace it) and reinstall it flush with the crankcase, huh? They ARE only supposed to go in until flush with the case, right?

 

[SteveSr]

They ARE only supposed to go in until flush with the case, right?

Don't panic quite yet... Some Stihl's are below flush on the FW side. What special tool does Stihl tell you to use to install seals on this saw?

If it happens to be 1118-893-2401 that is used on the 026/260 and a bunch of other saws the seal is recessed about 0.100-0.110" so you can probably go with it assuming that there is nothing on the crank to interfere. I think that they do this to match a ridge on the FW casting. Unfortunately you can't see this with the FW installed.

 

[T.Bird]

Don't panic quite yet... Some Stihl's are below flush on the FW side. What special tool does Stihl tell you to use to install seals on this saw?

If it happens to be 1118-893-2401 that is used on the 026/260 and a bunch of other saws the seal is recessed about 0.100-0.110" so you can probably go with it assuming that there is nothing on the crank to interfere.

On the clutch side, the tool referenced in the manual is the 1118 893 2401 that you mentioned, but I THINK I am okay on that side as I only knocked that one in far enough to be able to get the e-clip on the crankshaft. The Stihl recommended tool for the flywheel side (which I may have in too far) is 1122 893 2405. Does that tell you anything?

 

[SteveSr]

The Stihl recommended tool for the flywheel side (which I may have in too far) is 1122 893 2405. Does that tell you anything?

Unfortunately not as I don't have one to measure. This tool was first made for the 064, 066, MS660 (1122) series of saws. No telling what else it may fit... probably lots of others.

Maybe a member that has one can measure it for you.

 

[T.Bird]

Unless you wise folks advise me otherwise, I'm thinking I'm just going to plow forward with getting this thing reassembled and not worry much about the seals. To me it sounds like the worst case scenario would be that they are in far enough to be interfering with the bearings, which admittedly could be pretty bad, but I guess I'll burn that bridge when I come to it...

 

[cookies]

It shouldent matter being installed a little too far inboard as long as the seal lip rides fully on the crank surface sealing properly and the seal body is not contacting aka rubbing against moving parts.

 

[T.Bird]

Good to hear.

Side note: The crank that was previously spinning freely became significantly harder to turn once the seals were installed. I would assume this is normal as tight new seals would provide quite a bit more friction, no?

 

[SteveSr]

Good to hear.

Side note: The crank that was previously spinning freely became significantly harder to turn once the seals were installed. I would assume this is normal as tight new seals would provide quite a bit more friction, no?

Add some mix oil to the seal lips and see if that helps. I think that Stihl recommends a little grease on the seal lips when installing.

 

[T.Bird]

Cool. I did put some mix oil on the seals before installing them, but maybe I'll drip a little more on them now that they are on.