Stihl Not Cutting

[jpistolero02]

Thank you guys so much. Let me check the bar based on the link provided. I just flipped the bar and cleaned it really well. I am using a Pferd to sharpen so I don't really have any control of the file depth.

 

[ATH]

Have you ever filed the rakers? that is a separate operation than sharpening the teeth... that could be your problem! I thought they looked OK in the picture, but Woody912 may have nailed it (or did you mean...is the file set to high in the tooth???)

 

[derwoodii]

Here is what the teeth look like.

gee dunno quik picture diagnosis says cutter looks ok fleshly filed maybe wrong file size 3/16 4.8mm for 325 and racker looks ok just about right maybe smidgen high,,, your bar looks cooked as blued so been working hot hard,,,,, er are you filing both side of the chain cutters & have you consider buying a new chain bar combo may save much pondering as that chain look a wee bit big,,, does it say 325 pitch suits stihl 025 or 3/8 pitch which is not ideal

If I don't give it heavy pressure it just sits there and cuts very little

this says raker to high but you picture does not give that indication

i'm out done other can work it

 

[HuskStihl]

That chain looks "fine". I'm still betting when he flips the bar, it magically cuts much better.

 

[mdavlee]

gee dunno quik picture diagnosis says cutter looks ok fleshly filed maybe wrong file size 3/16 4.8mm for 325 and racker looks ok just about right maybe smidgen high,,, your bar looks cooked as blued so been working hot hard,,,,, er are you filing both side of the chain cutters & have you consider buying a new chain bar combo may save much pondering as that chain look a wee bit big,,, does it say 325 pitch suits stihl 025 or 3/8 pitch which is not ideal




this says raker to high but you picture does not give that indication

i'm out done other can work it

Stihls bars show that if you peel the paint off a new one. They don't buff the edge from heat treatment.

 

[Moparmyway]

Here is what the teeth look like.

Rakers look too high to me
Looks like RM, not RS

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Is there a wide burr on the bottom of the bar? I'm betting the burr needs removed. Pretty sure that's what Jon's alluding to as well. That's the only thing that makes sense to me if a new chain didn't change much.

 

[HuskStihl]

Is there a wide burr on the bottom of the bar? I'm betting the burr needs removed. Pretty sure that's what Jon's alluding to as well. That's the only thing that makes sense to me if a new chain didn't change much.

I have no idea what "alluding" means, but I think his rails are spread and the chain is hitting the wood "sideways". The chain he showed would cut

 

[GrassGuerilla]

We're on the same page. Rails spread, and likely a burr formed on the bottom edge wider than the bar should be.

 

[Analyst Man]

Your bar groove may need to be cleaned so the chain can sit down, may be full of crap

In his picture the links are riding on the bar so the chain can't sit any lower.

 

[Moparmyway]

Here is what the teeth look like.

Rakers look too high to me
Looks like RM, not RS

Can you put up a picture with the file laying on the tooth ?

 

[CR888]

I have no idea what "alluding" means, but I think his rails are spread and the chain is hitting the wood "sideways". The chain he showed would cut

l think you have been spot on from the get go. l would suggest the bar more likely to be the problem over new chain that the op says is sharp. Darn...that wouod hurt to be out cut by a Sears special. lf the op hangs round here long enough he will learn that it requires a small fleet of ported pro saws with shiny Jap bars to cut a log. You just can't have a homeowner saw and expect life to be complete.

 

[kz1000]

Take the chain off and slide your fingers from the center of the bar to the outside edge/grove, I will bet that you have a ridge at the outer edge of the bar that is keeping the chain from contacting the wood.

 

[MMG]

Do you gave bar oil in your saw? Believe it or not one of my city buddies was complaining about his chain getting loose. After a few questions about this and that I mentioned that if he ran out of bar oil the chain would get hot, stop cutting, and get loose. He replied, "what is bar and chain oil?" He just didn't know.

 

[Pulp]

1. Cheeze louise, those pics show a reflective white line on the edge---means "NO SHARP".
2. The Pferd tool does BOTH edge and raker in each pass. Are you following directions ? Put up your right hand.
3. Are you sure that the Pferd is the CORRECT size ( files and tool ) for the Stihl chain ? There are a different sizes for 325 chains, etc...
4. And the last and final rant: are you stroking enough with the CORRECT angle ? ( And please you dirty minded fools, don't flame )

Why Stihl ?

P.S. How do I get some kind of avatar or pic on ?

 

[Toddppm]

Could be using just the pferd roller guide that doesn't do rakers at the same time? Looks plenty sharp to cut very well the way it is and not too deep in the gullet. We'll prolly never know, seems like these posters never come back...........

 

[Fireman Bill]

Im not sure what kind of chain you are using, chisel, semi chisel or micro chisel but you need to know what a sharp chain just like yours looks like. I read you said that it cut better using the top of the bar pulling up while cutting. I would then expect the bar to be part of your issue. Uneven bar rails, spread rails, wire edge on side of the bar and to shallow/worn grove are the problems to look for to include low/worn rails just behind the nose sprocket and on the heal of the bar around the oil hole. Look at your bar carefully and file the rails evenly as long as there is enogh groove depth for the chain links to set all the way down and ride against the bar rails. Feel with your fingernail on the side of the bar for a wire edge (be careful as these will be very sharp). If so lay the bar down flat and take a fine tooth file and slide it across the bar gliding down the length as you push forward. Good luck. Oh make sure you are using the correct file size to sharpen your chain as i have seen this problem on many occasions. Also there may be a witness mark on the top plate of your chain and this indicates the correct angle to hold the file while sharpening. Good luck and take your time to inspect and clean the bar grove. oil holes and use a brass bristle brush and PB blaster before you sharpen the cutters this removes the glaze that forms with some woods.Again good luck......

 

[Fireman Bill]

You asked about chain tension. The chain should be tigth enough so its not flopping whith every stroke of the file. If you have a sproket nose bar pull up on the chain in the middle of the bar and you should see the drive/guide links but not the tips or air between them and the bar. The chain should snap back into the bar groves but be able to be turned by hand. Be careful turning the chain, use gloves and only turn the chain away from the saw so if your hand slips it is not in the direction of the sharp cutters. Again good luck.....

 

[Skeans]

You need to file the rakers or grinders those are way too tall to grab wood, on a brand new chain you need to file or grind rakers so there's no pushing needed the saw and chain should do all the work.


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[no tree to big]

You need to file the rakers or grinders those are way too tall to grab wood, on a brand new chain you need to file or grind rakers so there's no pushing needed the saw and chain should do all the work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So u file your rakers on a brand new chain?[emoji87] you need to try a different brand chain then... jus sayin if u don't have a lot of power u need to be careful on raker depth u can easily take too much off