Stihl Splitting Case Suggestion

[GMAK]

Hello All,

I've got an 064 that I believe the flywheel bearings have taken a dump on. The reason I think this is that when I rotate the crank, I can hear what sounds like bb's falling. It just doesn't sound right, after lots of searches here, it seems reasonable that the cage let go and that is the reason the original piston and cylinder were destroyed.

Now, I had already ordered a bb kit for the saw, but after hearing that sound in the bearings I think I should replace them. This will be my first time attempting to split a case. I think these are my options, and I'd welcome your feedback.

1. Order a case splitting tool, (Ebay) $90. Then use a press for reassembly (I do have access to a hydraulic press).
2. Order the stihl specific tools, AS/ZS (Ebay) $300+. I believe I can then split the case and remove the flywheel and reassemble utilizing these tools, no press needed, (correct?).
3. Find someone with experience (and tools!) to help me out. SW Kansas anyone?
4. Find a dealer to do the work.
5. Send it to a member here to do the work.

I don't do this much, nor do I anticipate doing it a lot in the future. I have this saw to do, and maybe 1 more, (024). I don't mind learning how to do it, and I typically like to get the proper tools, but not so sure I want to spend $300+ to do so. Could I manage to do it with a case splitting tool and the press (it seems a lot of you guys here do it without the stihl tools)? Do the Stihl tools make it a simple job, are they worth it?

I welcome your feedback and advice. I did try the search function quite a bit to see what others have done, it seems though that a lot of those really good pictures have been lost. So I do apologize if this is the 1,000th thread to discuss this!

 

[LowVolt]

If I were you I would get this one. It will do abunch of stihl and husqvarna saws.



i have yet to assemble my forst bottom end but all you need is a heat gun and that should get things warm enough to expand allowing the bearings to just fall in place. I would suggest searching to find detailed instruction on how to reassemble.

 

[bayard]

there are some tools you can make at home. that will help. do a search. when you have it ready to put it together. put the case half in the toaster oven.at 150 deg . for 5 min.put the bearing in the freezer over night.it will go together well. others will fill in the blanks

 

[scallywag]

Do you have a workshop manual for the 064?.....If not, I would suggest reading one before you start the job..... Also if you can, grab a 064 IPL, the IPL's tend to give a better idea of what part goes where.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Don`t press the bearings in, just use heat to swell the mag cases, I have heated Stihl magnesium cases to 350F in an oven to get the bearings to drop right in the case bores. Pressing them cold can result in cracked cases and or cocked bearings. With both the bearings and case hot the case halves will slide right over the crankshaft ends.

 

[bacon K5]

Do you have a welder? You can make yourself a case splitting tool out of scrap steel pretty easily

 

[MS260 Fan]

These aren't my pictures but I've made mine the same out of a 3" piece of scrap channel.

 

[GMAK]

These aren't my pictures but I've made mine the same out of a 3" piece of scrap channel.

View attachment 501387 View attachment 501388

Hmm... that looks cool. Since I've relocated, most of my real tools are in storage about 1000 miles away, so building a lot of the tools isn't as much of an option right now. This I may be able to do though...

 

[glock37]

A heat gun works to remove and install bearing no need for pullers or presses to get bearing in or out of case

a Bearing puller from Harbor Freight works great to get bearings off crank

heat cases to get bearing and slide crank in as pioneer guy said !

 

[shawn022]

Bolt a piece of unistrut to the bar studs and use a two jaw auto store puller to pull off the clutch side. Then use the hydraulic press to push the crank out of the flywheel side case
.

 

[Donnieboy]

If I were you I would get this one. It will do abunch of stihl and husqvarna saws.

View attachment 501330

i have yet to assemble my forst bottom end but all you need is a heat gun and that should get things warm enough to expand allowing the bearings to just fall in place. I would suggest searching to find detailed instruction on how to reassemble.

This tool is well worth the $100 especially if you are going to be splitting more than one case! The use of heat, cold and your press you should have no trouble reassembling.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The Husky splitter forks need to be spread apart somewhat to fit the 064 and larger Stihl cranks. At least mine did. Proceed with caution as a fair amount of force is required using a spud bar or similar leverage tool to spread the forks and you're dealing with aluminum welds. Clamp the splitter in a vise below the welds for additional support of the welds and go for it. Mounted in a vise as pictured is also how it was intended to be used even though most vids you see show it being held by hand..., awkwardly. It can also be used for the crank and bearing removal on the respective case sides that didn't initially separate from each other as may have been expected. Otherwise, the uni-strut and two-jaw puller approach is indeed the poor man's way of also gettin' it done quite effectively along with an arbor press and simple jig for the crank and bearing removal. Heat the cases and freeze the bearings for drop-in re-assembly as already suggested. Then use extended length case bolts to draw the case halves back together until the normal bolts with thread. Draw it together uniformly and you're home free...., unless ya forgot the case gasket! (Been there, Done that.) Use a dead blow to give the crank a couple of good whacks on each side to align everything in the case halves so it feels nice and smooth rotating and go cut wood.

Good luck. An interesting adventure awaits you.

​

 

[LowVolt]

The Husky splitter forks need to be spread apart somewhat to fit the 064 and larger Stihl cranks. At least mine did. Proceed with caution as a fair amount of force is required using a spud bar or similar leverage tool to spread the forks and you're dealing with aluminum welds. Clamp the splitter in a vise below the welds for additional support of the welds and go for it. Mounted in a vise as pictured is also how it was intended to be used even though most vids you see show it being held by hand..., awkwardly. It can also be used for the crank and bearing removal on the respective case sides that didn't initially separate from each other as may have been expected. Otherwise, the uni-strut and two-jaw puller approach is indeed the poor man's way of also gettin' it done quite effectively along with an arbor press and simple jig for the crank and bearing removal. Heat the cases and freeze the bearings for drop-in re-assembly as already suggested. Then use extended length case bolts to draw the case halves back together until the normal bolts with thread. Draw it together uniformly and you're home free...., unless ya forgot the case gasket! (Been there, Done that.) Use a dead blow to give the crank a couple of good whacks on each side to align everything in the case halves so it feels nice and smooth rotating and go cut wood.

Good luck. An interesting adventure awaits you.

View attachment 501515

View attachment 501516

View attachment 501526



​

So your case splitter is aluminum?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I thought so? A very strong magnet just proved otherwise!

Regardless, the point was to be very careful and consider the welds if there was a need to spread the forks for larger Stihl saws. This pic sorta shows how much spread is necessary...., more than may seem evident here and requires a lot of force if clamped in a vise far enough above the base tube and welds to minimize applying stress to the joints.

​

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hello All,

I've got an 064 that I believe the flywheel bearings have taken a dump on. The reason I think this is that when I rotate the crank, I can hear what sounds like bb's falling. It just doesn't sound right, after lots of searches here, it seems reasonable that the cage let go and that is the reason the original piston and cylinder were destroyed.

Now, I had already ordered a bb kit for the saw, but after hearing that sound in the bearings I think I should replace them. This will be my first time attempting to split a case. I think these are my options, and I'd welcome your feedback.

1. Order a case splitting tool, (Ebay) $90. Then use a press for reassembly (I do have access to a hydraulic press).
2. Order the stihl specific tools, AS/ZS (Ebay) $300+. I believe I can then split the case and remove the flywheel and reassemble utilizing these tools, no press needed, (correct?).
3. Find someone with experience (and tools!) to help me out. SW Kansas anyone?
4. Find a dealer to do the work.
5. Send it to a member here to do the work.

I don't do this much, nor do I anticipate doing it a lot in the future. I have this saw to do, and maybe 1 more, (024). I don't mind learning how to do it, and I typically like to get the proper tools, but not so sure I want to spend $300+ to do so. Could I manage to do it with a case splitting tool and the press (it seems a lot of you guys here do it without the stihl tools)? Do the Stihl tools make it a simple job, are they worth it?

I welcome your feedback and advice. I did try the search function quite a bit to see what others have done, it seems though that a lot of those really good pictures have been lost. So I do apologize if this is the 1,000th thread to discuss this!

That's why I like the homeowner saws, MS250, 290 etc. I can replace anything on the saw with no special tools and in the comfort of my living room until the wife gets home...just kidding about the living room part.

 

[GMAK]

Well, I should have this next week.... and then the adventure begins!

 

[GMAK]

So, got the tool, worked awesome to split the case.
Here's the flywheel side bearing:

Does that seem bad?! ☺

And yes, this will take me a while as free time is almost non existent right now.

 

[Termite]

I thought so? A very strong magnet just proved otherwise!

Regardless, the point was to be very careful and consider the welds if there was a need to spread the forks for larger Stihl saws. This pic sorta shows how much spread is necessary...., more than may seem evident here and requires a lot of force if clamped in a vise far enough above the base tube and welds to minimize applying stress to the joints.

View attachment 501678​

To spread my case splitting too I put a 3/8's bolt and nut between the jaws and backed the nut off with a wrench. This procedure worked very well.